no matter what i do the motor seems to be about a inch to far forward. I've looked at a lot of the the other people mounting the 240sx and i their shifter location seems to be about an inch further back. I'm thinking its something in the trans tunnel i beat some of it for the bell housing part. Do you have to beat anything in the actual trans tunnel? I've spent the last few days just trying to position the motor and trans once i get it right it seems to move back forward. Any one else have problems with this? Any Ideas? thanks.

 

There's two ways to get the transmission were you want it to be. 1. you pound the transmission tunnel to get the clearance you want; or 2. you put spacers between the subframe and chassis to lower the engine a bit to get the clearance you need. There's pros and cons of doing either. Do a search and you'll find some info of what I mean. Good luck!

 

i say beat the **** out of the tunnel. if your not sure you beat enough. beat more, stop take a break, then beat some more. i had to widen mine more than raise it tho.


post up some pics

 

i wouldnt lower the crossmember, it is going to change all your suspension and steering geometry.

 

Beat the **** out of the tunnel. It'll fit. I also cut the stupid ears off my trans to get it to fit better.

 

Another option (forgot to mention sorry) will probably work is if you cut the GTO oil pan (assuming you're using gto right??) to give you better clearance. I think XT Racing in Florida used this approach without banging out the tunnel OR dropping the subframe. Worth looking into I think.

 

i just beat the **** out of the tunnel mainly where it is seamed and then some where the original mounting brackets are at for the ka tranny. have yet to drop the engine and tranny in maybe tonight or tomorrow.

 

beating the **** out of something > *

 

i had to beat the hell out of the tunnel and just like slo_240sx said if you cut the ears off the transmission it fits easier too.

 

you guys have pictures of how much "clearancing" you did to the tunnel so i know what im in for? trying to prep the chassis as much as possible before the engine gets here.

 

i think i'm good now still havent' put the motor back in just make it wide where the seam is at that moves pretty easy. and the bellhousing area but you can see that when you put the motor in. i think daiboi brad has pics of his beating. on his photobucket

 

just notch the subframe. the only thing hammered on my car is the wheel wells on the front.

i know we didnt hammer anything for the s14 build we did up here at www.xatracing.com

 

got it all together... i didn't even have to notch the hood. stoked. still got alot left to do though

 

I went a little crazy trying to get the engine and trans as far back and low as possible.

I beat the crap out of the tunnel so hard that it cracked at the seam, thus the plate that is welded over it. On the sides I beat it out so far, and it got so ugly that we jokingly said the clearance looked like a giant bear turd.

before:
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...d/IMG_0748.jpg


now:
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...d/DSC02098.jpg


I also had to take the die grinder to some random bits of the t56. But my engine is way the hell back. I'm going to start a thread of my own this week. Hope this helps.

 

nice nice... i guess i'll keep this thread going until i make my own when i have time... right now i'm looking at how i'm going to do the high pressure power steering line. i was down at nopi St louis this last weekend and there was 3 ls1/240sx's and one of them had a braided line just threaded on there. anyone know what parts that would take or anyone that makes them. or even the threads out of the 240 steering box and then the threads from the ls1 pump??

 

ls1 ps pump has 16mm threads w/ o ring
240 rack has 14mm threads w/ o ring

cnichols is testing 14mm fittings cause the russell and earls fittigns are leaking.

it looks clean though

 

totally feelin the calander on the dash. i just sit back and watch as the days fly by on mine =[

 

oo some info on powersteering fittings would help me when i do this swap.

 

16x1.5mm at the pump and 14x1.5mm at the rack...