Pin 18 on the red connector should be wired to the ac compressor clutch signal wire. This is how the trucks are wired so you will have to change the ac settings via hptuners or efilive.

 

Right I think your talking about the ac signal to the ecu no? This is just to bump the idle when the compressor kicks on. I'm trying to make sure that I have the right wires going to the compressor. And I'm not sure if there is an additional sensor required to run the lsx system with that compressor? What would it hook up to?

 

Which compressor do you have?

 

I have the fbody compressor

 

Im not sure about the f-body compressor. Im running the kwik performance top mount and Im not using any pressure sensors

 

I took a six liter straight out of an Escalade and dropped it into my Grand National clone. I used the truck oil pan and the truck accessories (no A/C) and everything fit great! I used Trans Dapt mounts for an S-10.

My two headaches were the pass side F body header (Pacesetter) and the highside power steering hose.

 

i have a 5.7 from an fbody into an 81 cutlass. my accessories are a little mixed b/c i'm running a procharger. i have the fbody compressor and mount though. down low on the passenger side. I notched the frame there to give me the clearance. i'm also not sure about how to tackle the hoses for the a/c. Should i try to re work the factory hard lines or go with flexible aftermarket??? And then I need to figure out the wiring too. If anyone can shed some light on this it would really help.

 

I believe russel makes a fitting thats quick release on one side and a male AN on the other. I only had to use that and then of course the female AN to attach the line on my first swap. not exactly factory looking but not gauty either.

 

Finishing up some wiring on the car and I'm getting ready to wire up the alternator. Do I need to place a 470ohm 1/2 watt resistor inline on the brown wire? This is a 88 SS with the Voltmeter, not just a light.

By the way this is a Carbed LS3 using Vette accessory drive with MSD Ignition controller if that makes any difference.

 

Installing a LS2, [05 GTO], and matching 4L60E, in an 85 "El Camel.."
The harness has 1 lite blue wire labelled as "brake switch". The vehicle has the stock brake sw and wires on it, along w/ the stock column, and wiring.

The ?: Does this blue wire just go to 1 side of the switch with 12v on the other?? [Or, should I set it up so the switch takes the blue wire to ground until the brake is pressed?
I have the GM G-body manual. It shows the sw as hot on 1 side and to the TCC in the 200-R4...
I hate to brick this E40 ecm!!

NE1 have the correct method??

TIA...

 

On the E40, the blue wire to the brake switch hooks into the wire feeding the brake lites. [Output side of the switch]. Backwards from the older units that had constant power to the TCC, and dropped the clutch out by cutting power to it.
12v disconnects the clutch.....

 

To clean up YELOC20's post...

My 86 Monte SS, 01 LQ4 6.0L, L92 heads, LS3 intake, 4l80e

Oil Pan - we did use the CTS-V pan, with the cheap ebay standard placement mounts. I did have to notch the crossmember just a little past the brake line that runs across the cross member.

Mounts - Cheap ebay standard placement mounts. Fitment is great with Truck coils, and car coils can be used if you leave out the rear mount bolt.

Accys - Truck's power steering pulley won't clear the steering gear, and the alternator is about a half inch from closing. (maybe if you remove the structural parts from the hood, it may clear.) Going to try some mounts kinda designed after kwik performance mounts, but one that can use a truck pump.

A/C - Ultimately Kwik performance brackets once money allows.

Headers - BRP's Hedman 1 7/8 ceramic coated headers. Pretty tight on the drivers side, but everthing fits great.

Trans Crossmember - Jeg's Dual hump TH400 crossmember, didn't even come close to working, original holes over 8inches off. swapped crossmember backwards, and still nothing close. Completely had to modifiy the side mounts, then found out the humps for the exhaust are offset towards the center by a great deal, so now it's time to throw it out completely and just make a cross member.

Driveshaft - have to cut down. WAY TO LONG

Fuel - Rock Auto Grand National Tank, along with sender. Walbro 255 pump, corvette regulator, removed all the factory fuel and evap lines, and ran plastic 3/8's up the passenger side frame rail, then up the trans tunnel over to the driver side.

cooling fans- 00 Malibu fans, removed from their plastic shroud, and now I'm making a aluminum shroud for them. Should look pretty good.

Harness - took 04 LQ4 from a g van, de-pinned everything, and currently laying it all out.

 

i am glad I found this post
\
I am going to subscribe also because i am going to be referencing you all for the next several months

i am getting a G Body here in the next day or two and am going to be having fun real soon

its been a good number of years( almost 2 decades ) since i had my last g body

but here we go and thanks for the 2 days of reading and links that i followed

its gonna make it alot easier now



dave

 

Hey guys just wanted to say that this thread rocks and to also put out that if you guys are looking for Turbo Regal/Grand National fuel tank or even a whole tank and fuel pump set together, you guys should check out Brian over at gbodyparts.com. I've been dealing with him since he was living in Baltimore, Maryland and Pa. Every time I dealt with him it was always great experience. So that's who I will be buying my tank and fuel pump set up from when I get back to working on my 86 442 and I hope you guys just check him out. If you have questions they are always willing to answer them. I don't like or trust a lot of folks because 9 times out of 10th they're trying to get over on you and I never had that negative feeling when doing business with Brian. To tell you the truth I don't mind spend my money when I do have it buying parts from him because he's what I like to call a personal business man.

Oh dang I almost forgot to ask my question!!!!
I am looking to put a 2010-2011 L96 engine and mate it with my rebuilt 200-4r Trans.
My questions are, does anybody know or have done a engine swap and converted a DBW engine to DBC engine and mated with 200-4r Trans? And if so what all is needed to do this set up?

 

wow lots of info here i cant wait to get a g body

 

Hey guys,
Great info. I just finished my '88 Cutlass 6.0/4L80E. Here are a couple of things I learned:
- I used the BRP/Hedman 1 3/4 headers. They were extremely close to the transmission on the drivers side. I had to header wrap all around and am worried about the trans wire connector. I could not run the factory reverse light/ pn switch. So much for reverse lights. These would be fairly close to a 4L60E switch also I think. My engine mounts were basically the clamshells with plates but the mounting holes were determined once I had maximum header clearance. I did not know the headers were suppose to have the engine raised. I probably would not have done it anyways as I wanted the correct angle on the engine. I am also doing a '63 Chevy II 6.0L/4l60E . I found that some guys use a Schoenfeld header 186LS1-3 with aftermarket front clips. I bought a set that did not fit my Duece. I think they are actually for a G-body. Does any one know how they would work in a G-body? They were $249 at Summit, Jegs and every where else. They may work better than beating a pair of F car headers. The Headmans were a pain in the *** to get in so I won't be able to check fitment on the Cutlass, but may be able to help check fitment on a project car in the area. I live in Dimondale MI, right outside of Lansing. Everything else on the project was cake. The 4L80E fit nicely except the cooler lines. I had to make the fittings getting a steel 3/8" JIC 90 degree fitting from Tractor Supply and cutting it in half and welding to the stock quick connect. This is alot shorter than buying the trans AN fitting and a swivel 90- not to mention it was less than $10 bucks complete. I also used a Y car accessory drive as the F car stuff had clearance issues. I currently have a manual S10 steering box but am upgrading to P/S next year. I used the CTS-V pan but my engine placement forced me to cut/weld the K member.

And the biggest problem with the Hedman headers- they hit my $212 MSD starter! I had to go buy a stock LS1 Camaro starter.

 

Reading this tread has really helped thanks and keep it up

 

I lub dis tread

 

Any pics of how you did the 4l80e fittings?

 

No pictures, but I can walk you through it.
1.) put the original fitting in transmission and tighten it with the o-ring on it. I did not use the o-ring and it changed the angle slightly. After it's tight, mark the direction you want the hose to go.
2.) remove the fittings and pick the clip and o-rings out of the inside and the outer o-ring.
3.) grind the quick connect fitting down so the grooves where the clip goes are gone.
4.) cut the 90 degree steel fitting so it gives enough clearance to weld but is low as possible. I used a 3/8 male JIC by 3/8 female JIC 90 from Tractor Supply Co. It has a #13 as the part number and cost $4.99 from the hydraulic/ snow plow section. I cut the female side off with a 4 1/2" grinder with a thin grinding wheel.

I will be making a set for my brothers 4L80E install in his Camaro and will try and get a couple pictures posted. I hope this helps.