The G-Body Swap Thread
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
Those appear to be BRP mounts, IIRC they did or do make a kit for the g-body, and those mounts look very similar to their other kits.
With the mount positioned like that and the outlet lines on the compressor you will probably be able to get in in there with a small notch to the k-member, or maybe you won`t even need that depending on how far back those mounts position the engine.
The vintage air systems say that they can`t use the new style variable displacement compressor. However it looks like you have the same clutch cycling compressor setup that I used on my car and it works great with the rest of the GM G-Body system.
With the mount positioned like that and the outlet lines on the compressor you will probably be able to get in in there with a small notch to the k-member, or maybe you won`t even need that depending on how far back those mounts position the engine.
The vintage air systems say that they can`t use the new style variable displacement compressor. However it looks like you have the same clutch cycling compressor setup that I used on my car and it works great with the rest of the GM G-Body system.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: wichita falls TX
so i may get lucky and everything should fit.. does anyone have a picture of an a/c compressor mounted down on the bottom in their swap??? i'm just trying to get a rough idea of what i'm doing here... seeing one already done would be nice.
what can/should i do about those lines running where the compressor will be?
what can/should i do about those lines running where the compressor will be?
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
Heres some pics of the cut that I had to make. I thought I had some of the compressor with it in there and assembled, but I can`t find them right now. If you have trans lines running through there you would have to make new ones, and re-route them. Mine run higher up on the inner fender.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: wichita falls TX
thats exactly what i needed! thanks!! i just realized i have to figure out how to wire this thing up now.. ugh. i had already thought about the a/c lines and figured i would have to take to a shop to get those made and hooked up. i've got the clip and about a foot of wiring still on the compressor and its just been cut off, do those wires come from the harness somewhere? i may have to pull the wire loom off and search for the other end of these cut wires, damn.
Been waiting to complete the project before I contributed to this thread- which has, and this site, been a wealth of knowledge for pulling off the swap. Here we go. . .
Car: '84 Monte SS
Drivetrain: 5.7L LS1 and 4L60E from '01 TA w/ 52k miles. Bought from Cleveland Pick-a-part
Goal was a close-to OEM installation without cutting the car. I wanted to retain a totally stock interior appearance, too.
Radiator: Stock g-body w/ extra nipple for steam hose. G-body Cutlass top radiator retaining bracket. F-body LS1 fans w/ custom brackets for attaching to factory retaining clips. Buick Grand National A/C condenser- passenger side connection and same brackets as MCSS.
Intake: DIY parts from Silicone intakes.com. Stock MAF.
Engine swap parts: Spohn motor mounts, Kwik A/C bracket, BRP Mid-length headers, RetroLSX oil pan, NAPA G-body temp sending unit machined to fit in rear of passenger cylinder head (Vato Zone sending units deteriorated during machining process, Current performance stand-alone module for engine (chassis uses OEM fuse block). 2.5" 304 stainless exhaust w/ H-pipe and Dynomax VT mufflers. Mufflers at idle and normal RPM have factory F-body sound but roar when you spin up the engine.
Trans swap parts: Shiftworks tailhousing, built-to-spec trans cable (couldn't find adequate OEM part), custom trans cable mounting tab, Iceman x-member (not quite bolt-in application), F-body shifter modified to mount in factory G-body location and use stock MCSS shift handle. No mods were necessary to fit MCSS handle to F-body shifter. Shortened OEM MCSS driveshaft- will eventually replace with new driveshaft.
Electrical: Wait4Me performance flashed the ECM and converted the harness. I intended to do the electrical work myself until a local shop opened, Downriver Motorsports Wiring in Romulus, MI. The rates were exceptionally fair and quality of work far exceeded my expectations and abilities. The ECM is enclosed in a custom housing on the passenger toe-board beneath the carpet. The passenger loses about 2-2.5" of legroom.
I have a 34" inseam and could sit comfortably. Also had car dyno tuned. In hindsight, I paid twice for the harness and ECM flash, but it was a relatively inexpensive lesson to learn.
Fuel delivery: Buick Grand National gas tank/fuel pump/sending unit/, 'vette filter/regulator, currently have -6AN line from tank to engine but have plastic line to replace it when the weather breaks.
Fittment: RetroLSX pan is the cat's ***. Front cross-member is ~5" off the ground and the pan is tucked from harms way. ~1/8" clearance between stock steering box and alternator pulley. Pass rear spark plug is touching A/C box. I plan to clearance the box when the weather breaks. The engine-to-AC clearance is why the harness is draped over the rocker covers. BRP headers would have melted the OEM steering shaft. Jeep XJ steering shaft was too bulky, so I got it right with Borgeson hardware. Clearance is still a scant 1/8-1/4". BRP header flanges negated use of stock trans cable mounting tab.
Lessons learned: I'd not buy a harness or tune twice, and I'd opt for making my own trans x-member or just buying a G-force unit. I bought the Iceman used but never installed and didn't receive paperwork with it to know if I had the correct application or not. Unmodified fitment was like a saddle on a cow, but it worked out fine. I'm very satisfied with the end result. In hindsight I shouldn't have pussed out and cut the car. Had I gone that route it would have a T56.
Other stats: SC&C Stage 2, SPC tubular lowers and springs (all corners), SC&C frame brace, Vari-Shocks on all corners, Currie upper and lower rear arms, Baer Track 13" kit on OEM spindle, Baer Track 12" kit on rear, 18" Rushforth Fuel on Khumo Ventus tires.
Open issues: headliner repair, driveshaft replacement, purchase DIY A/C lines & charge system, wait for snow to melt and enjoy.
Car: '84 Monte SS
Drivetrain: 5.7L LS1 and 4L60E from '01 TA w/ 52k miles. Bought from Cleveland Pick-a-part
Goal was a close-to OEM installation without cutting the car. I wanted to retain a totally stock interior appearance, too.
Radiator: Stock g-body w/ extra nipple for steam hose. G-body Cutlass top radiator retaining bracket. F-body LS1 fans w/ custom brackets for attaching to factory retaining clips. Buick Grand National A/C condenser- passenger side connection and same brackets as MCSS.
Intake: DIY parts from Silicone intakes.com. Stock MAF.
Engine swap parts: Spohn motor mounts, Kwik A/C bracket, BRP Mid-length headers, RetroLSX oil pan, NAPA G-body temp sending unit machined to fit in rear of passenger cylinder head (Vato Zone sending units deteriorated during machining process, Current performance stand-alone module for engine (chassis uses OEM fuse block). 2.5" 304 stainless exhaust w/ H-pipe and Dynomax VT mufflers. Mufflers at idle and normal RPM have factory F-body sound but roar when you spin up the engine.
Trans swap parts: Shiftworks tailhousing, built-to-spec trans cable (couldn't find adequate OEM part), custom trans cable mounting tab, Iceman x-member (not quite bolt-in application), F-body shifter modified to mount in factory G-body location and use stock MCSS shift handle. No mods were necessary to fit MCSS handle to F-body shifter. Shortened OEM MCSS driveshaft- will eventually replace with new driveshaft.
Electrical: Wait4Me performance flashed the ECM and converted the harness. I intended to do the electrical work myself until a local shop opened, Downriver Motorsports Wiring in Romulus, MI. The rates were exceptionally fair and quality of work far exceeded my expectations and abilities. The ECM is enclosed in a custom housing on the passenger toe-board beneath the carpet. The passenger loses about 2-2.5" of legroom.
I have a 34" inseam and could sit comfortably. Also had car dyno tuned. In hindsight, I paid twice for the harness and ECM flash, but it was a relatively inexpensive lesson to learn.
Fuel delivery: Buick Grand National gas tank/fuel pump/sending unit/, 'vette filter/regulator, currently have -6AN line from tank to engine but have plastic line to replace it when the weather breaks.
Fittment: RetroLSX pan is the cat's ***. Front cross-member is ~5" off the ground and the pan is tucked from harms way. ~1/8" clearance between stock steering box and alternator pulley. Pass rear spark plug is touching A/C box. I plan to clearance the box when the weather breaks. The engine-to-AC clearance is why the harness is draped over the rocker covers. BRP headers would have melted the OEM steering shaft. Jeep XJ steering shaft was too bulky, so I got it right with Borgeson hardware. Clearance is still a scant 1/8-1/4". BRP header flanges negated use of stock trans cable mounting tab.
Lessons learned: I'd not buy a harness or tune twice, and I'd opt for making my own trans x-member or just buying a G-force unit. I bought the Iceman used but never installed and didn't receive paperwork with it to know if I had the correct application or not. Unmodified fitment was like a saddle on a cow, but it worked out fine. I'm very satisfied with the end result. In hindsight I shouldn't have pussed out and cut the car. Had I gone that route it would have a T56.
Other stats: SC&C Stage 2, SPC tubular lowers and springs (all corners), SC&C frame brace, Vari-Shocks on all corners, Currie upper and lower rear arms, Baer Track 13" kit on OEM spindle, Baer Track 12" kit on rear, 18" Rushforth Fuel on Khumo Ventus tires.
Open issues: headliner repair, driveshaft replacement, purchase DIY A/C lines & charge system, wait for snow to melt and enjoy.
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,148
Likes: 12
From: Downers Grove, IL
If it is the red and blue PCM you should be able to wire it up to the PCM. What you really need is someone with HPTuners or EFILive to check the programming and see what operating system is in there, The red and blue PCM`s have multiple ways to hook the A/C up depending on if they used a truck, vette, or f-body operating system when they retuned that computer.
Holley Motor Mount Swap Plates for G bodies After a year of waiting these are finally for sale. this is what Holley used when they put together "El Camino Verde" with an LS3 and 4L60E. Jegs has the entire line in stock.
Hooker Headers 12621 - Hooker Headers LS Engine Swap Mount Plates, $113.00
These swap plates bolt to the engine and bolt directly to the stock clamshell motor mounts. They move the engine 1 1/4 forward and 1/2 up. Holley also used what I believe is the Youngs F-Body Motorsports AC compressor mounting kit for a 3rd Gen F Body AC compressor on an LS1. I think a serpentine R134 remanufactured compressor from a 90-92 3rd Gen or S10 truck will work well.
Hooker Headers 12621 - Hooker Headers LS Engine Swap Mount Plates, $113.00
These swap plates bolt to the engine and bolt directly to the stock clamshell motor mounts. They move the engine 1 1/4 forward and 1/2 up. Holley also used what I believe is the Youngs F-Body Motorsports AC compressor mounting kit for a 3rd Gen F Body AC compressor on an LS1. I think a serpentine R134 remanufactured compressor from a 90-92 3rd Gen or S10 truck will work well.
Anyone using the pacesetters have to beat the hell out of one of the primaries to fit right on the passenger side? I've nearly closed one tube in half and it fits, but it hits the frame still. I still have to get a stall converter and trans so a set of BRPs may be out of my budget right now.
Ill try to get some pictures of the pacesetters I cut and welded to fit the car tomorrow. I was suppossed to do this a while back for you guys, but changed jobs and got side tracked from the car. Just now getting back around to working on it. Motor is long blocked, need to put the new waterpump, vic jr, and edelbrock 4 barrel tb on. get the headers coated and put everything in the car. Itll be paint and body for the car after the race season is over.
Ill try to get some pictures of the pacesetters I cut and welded to fit the car tomorrow. I was suppossed to do this a while back for you guys, but changed jobs and got side tracked from the car. Just now getting back around to working on it. Motor is long blocked, need to put the new waterpump, vic jr, and edelbrock 4 barrel tb on. get the headers coated and put everything in the car. Itll be paint and body for the car after the race season is over.
Live and learn though
Thanks Monte LS......1, we have similar setups with the headers, mounts, and trans crossmember.
We need John B to get back on he Saddle and start making these mount again