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Old Dec 26, 2015 | 05:33 PM
  #1501  
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Originally Posted by jimmyg
Hi Todd, I'm thinking of going this route when I install a whipple 2.9 over the winter. The whipple is set up for 5 th gen camaro accessorys , so it will simplify things if I do.
OMG!!!! where were you with this bracket a month ago haha looks like exactly what i need im so far into the holley set up now i cant go back ill try it all out and see what happens i am worried about the steering box and ps interference with the long belt alignment set up but ill just have to wait and see

i really agree with you toddoky about keeping the angle/u jpoint stuff proper and keeping the engine as far back as permissable is a definite positive but people are going to be using alot more than those old corvette and f body set ups nowadays so.... anyways im sure we can all learn a bit from what im going through here and what im attempting to do with this magnuson set up LS3 in a g body

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Old Dec 26, 2015 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by G-BODY-JAMES
OMG!!!! where were you with this bracket a month ago haha looks like exactly what i need im so far into the holley set up now i cant go back ill try it all out and see what happens i am worried about the steering box and ps interference with the long belt alignment set up but ill just have to wait and see

i really agree with you toddoky about keeping the angle/u jpoint stuff proper and keeping the engine as far back as permissable is a definite positive but people are going to be using alot more than those old corvette and f body set ups nowadays so.... anyways im sure we can all learn a bit from what im going through here and what im attempting to do with this magnuson set up LS3 in a g body

1985 Buick Regal G Body Supercharged LS3 Swap Part 4 - YouTube
Hey James, if you think moving the engine forward will help you with your fitment then you can do that by attaching the clamshells to the stock location on the frame. By doing that however, you will upset the alignment of the holes in the Hooker crossmember with the factory holes in the frame; if you are doing a TH350 based swap then that won't matter much to you. There's nothing that can be done with the design of Hooker mounting components to benefit your situation without negatively affecting vehicle functionality, or the fitment of accessory drive components for someone using a truck, F-body/GTO or Corvette FEAD, which represents a far greater combined volume of swaps than LSA installs do. You are right about the opportunity to learn...I'm always open to that.

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Old Dec 26, 2015 | 06:53 PM
  #1503  
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No No I will be doing the final set up with a th400 a th350 just aint gonna cut it for the power im going to be achieving in the end and even now this set up made 505 at the wheels in the camaro i had it in so.... just felt like i could get it rolling with the th350 but i obviously diddnt know the case length was so different thats ok tho. ill be happy to just get the thing running happily in the engine bay. trans and driveline are the last of my worries at this point. most my questions so far have been answered im going to keep plugging away at everything and asking more questions as i go ill keep the clamshells where they are designed to go so that all the parts will work together. i love the crossmember its nice and a definite improvement over the stock POS haha
thanks again.
but hey!! so in the video does that look somewhat normal spacing to the firewall?? taking into consideration my heater box plate is 1/4 inch thick?
and what about the front of the engine does that seem like a sufficient amount of room for everything?? my holley idler pulley and ps pump are on their way
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Old Dec 26, 2015 | 08:24 PM
  #1504  
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Originally Posted by G-BODY-JAMES
No No I will be doing the final set up with a th400 a th350 just aint gonna cut it for the power im going to be achieving in the end and even now this set up made 505 at the wheels in the camaro i had it in so.... just felt like i could get it rolling with the th350 but i obviously diddnt know the case length was so different thats ok tho. ill be happy to just get the thing running happily in the engine bay. trans and driveline are the last of my worries at this point. most my questions so far have been answered im going to keep plugging away at everything and asking more questions as i go ill keep the clamshells where they are designed to go so that all the parts will work together. i love the crossmember its nice and a definite improvement over the stock POS haha
thanks again.
but hey!! so in the video does that look somewhat normal spacing to the firewall?? taking into consideration my heater box plate is 1/4 inch thick?
and what about the front of the engine does that seem like a sufficient amount of room for everything?? my holley idler pulley and ps pump are on their way
It's hard judge clearances by that video as I don't know what the heater block off plate is comprised of, or whether the trans is actually installed on the crossmember or just supported on a floor jack. One thing I can tell you is there has proven to be a measurable amount of clearance variance between various cars at the location of the firewall. For instance, the Holley Monte Carlo SS project car has 1/2" clearance between coil bracket and evaporator case and two 79' Malibu's we put LS's in barely had any clearance at the same point. Worn body bushings will have some effect on it, but the bigger culprit is the large production tolerances these cars were built with.
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Old Jan 1, 2016 | 09:18 PM
  #1505  
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another gbody getting a l92 w/4l80 combo



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Old Jan 2, 2016 | 11:34 AM
  #1506  
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Those photos remind me of the current condition of my Monte Carlo SS.
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Old Jan 2, 2016 | 11:37 AM
  #1507  
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thought you guys might not mind seeing some love my car got

















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Old Jan 2, 2016 | 11:44 AM
  #1508  
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Originally Posted by upflying
Those photos remind me of the current condition of my Monte Carlo SS.

i wish my was as clean as yours lol. the garage too
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Old Jan 2, 2016 | 11:48 AM
  #1509  
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Originally Posted by 916montels
i wish my was as clean as yours lol. the garage too
That's epoxy on the garage floor. Thanks for the compliment, the LS3 should arrive truck freight next week. All Hooker-Holley conversion components. Just fiddling with the GN gas tank and sender in the meantime.

Last edited by upflying; Jan 2, 2016 at 05:38 PM.
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Old Jan 2, 2016 | 04:28 PM
  #1510  
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I'm looking to do a Turbo LS deal. I was wondering if there are any factory manifolds that can face down and forward? Even if they have to be modified? I have done a ton of searching but can not come up with anything. I have read there is clearance issues on the passenger side with a forward facing truck manifold. But they did not say where the interference was.
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Old Jan 3, 2016 | 02:19 PM
  #1511  
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Originally Posted by Brian Dorsey
I'm looking to do a Turbo LS deal. I was wondering if there are any factory manifolds that can face down and forward? Even if they have to be modified? I have done a ton of searching but can not come up with anything. I have read there is clearance issues on the passenger side with a forward facing truck manifold. But they did not say where the interference was.
from my research: for the passenger side, you can use the LS4 (v8 monte carlo ss, impalass, etc.) manifold in a down/forward orientation. you will not be able to run a low mount a/c with this setup, though. for the driver side, you will have to do some kind of modified setup to clear the steering box, and the best bet for accessories that will clear driver side is vette.
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Old Jan 3, 2016 | 09:38 PM
  #1512  
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Im building a 78 malibu and i just picked up my first LS swap last weekend but im wayyyyyyyyy far away from even beginning to install it. Its an L76 6.0L out of an '09 Pontiac G8. Its a LS2 short block factory equipped with L92 heads. Gotta start collecting all the parts first.

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Old Jan 4, 2016 | 04:24 PM
  #1513  
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That's a sweet malibu! Look into the hooker swap mounts prob the easiest way to get that motor in
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Old Jan 4, 2016 | 06:56 PM
  #1514  
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
It's hard judge clearances by that video as I don't know what the heater block off plate is comprised of, or whether the trans is actually installed on the crossmember or just supported on a floor jack. One thing I can tell you is there has proven to be a measurable amount of clearance variance between various cars at the location of the firewall. For instance, the Holley Monte Carlo SS project car has 1/2" clearance between coil bracket and evaporator case and two 79' Malibu's we put LS's in barely had any clearance at the same point. Worn body bushings will have some effect on it, but the bigger culprit is the large production tolerances these cars were built with.
the heater block plate is 1/4 inch aluminum checker plate. im actually decently happy with the space i did get the trans dip stick back in place but it is definitely tight and touching the body and possibly the back of the head/block. the th350 trans is now bolted up to the stock trans crossmember with brand new bushing on the th350 i did not have to oval it out as it was oval from factory and it bolted up perfectly fine. once bolted up it raised the rear of the block up slightly giving maybe 1/8th inch more room. if i did body mount bushings it would likely give me another 1/4 inch space im thinking. i also installed my holley/hooker ls swap headers (from bottom side) and they are a beautiful fit but face directly into the stock crossmember (knew this would happen) not concerned about that but like i had mentioned earlier it interferes with the column shift linkage in a major way so... they are super tucked up and tight to the floor pan on drivers side and about 1 1/2 inches below the passenger floor pan. clears the starter perfectly and everything else oh except dip stick it needed a slight bend and rests on the one header tube.(no big deal). sucks about the column shift interference..... any one out there have an easy solution to this problem? i have another regal with column shift i may have to rob some parts.... but i dont want to.
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Old Jan 4, 2016 | 07:03 PM
  #1515  
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Originally Posted by HeadGames Dave
thought you guys might not mind seeing some love my car got

















beautiful work!!!!!!
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Old Jan 4, 2016 | 07:58 PM
  #1516  
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Originally Posted by G-BODY-JAMES
the heater block plate is 1/4 inch aluminum checker plate. im actually decently happy with the space i did get the trans dip stick back in place but it is definitely tight and touching the body and possibly the back of the head/block. the th350 trans is now bolted up to the stock trans crossmember with brand new bushing on the th350 i did not have to oval it out as it was oval from factory and it bolted up perfectly fine. once bolted up it raised the rear of the block up slightly giving maybe 1/8th inch more room. if i did body mount bushings it would likely give me another 1/4 inch space im thinking. i also installed my holley/hooker ls swap headers (from bottom side) and they are a beautiful fit but face directly into the stock crossmember (knew this would happen) not concerned about that but like i had mentioned earlier it interferes with the column shift linkage in a major way so... they are super tucked up and tight to the floor pan on drivers side and about 1 1/2 inches below the passenger floor pan. clears the starter perfectly and everything else oh except dip stick it needed a slight bend and rests on the one header tube.(no big deal). sucks about the column shift interference..... any one out there have an easy solution to this problem? i have another regal with column shift i may have to rob some parts.... but i dont want to.
It sounds like you're making progress, that's good. If you can post up some photos of what your dealing with regarding the stock shifter myself and others will be better equipped to lend suggestions.
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 06:21 PM
  #1517  
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
It sounds like you're making progress, that's good. If you can post up some photos of what your dealing with regarding the stock shifter myself and others will be better equipped to lend suggestions.
ok ive drawn to the best of my ability with a mouse the path of the linkage that interferes with the top of the header it interferes farther back where the space exceeds 1/4 inch the 1/4 inch space is on the collector part and isn't the issue the issue seems simply the path of the linkage going to the trans i will play with it more when i get time but here's a few pics for now.

ps. my progress is about to halt for a bit as i am forced to leave the car alone for possibly a month for other business sorry guys!!!
Attached Thumbnails The G-Body Swap Thread-img_4497.jpg   The G-Body Swap Thread-img_4493.jpg   The G-Body Swap Thread-img_4488.jpg  
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 06:35 PM
  #1518  
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Originally Posted by G-BODY-JAMES
ok ive drawn to the best of my ability with a mouse the path of the linkage that interferes with the top of the header it interferes farther back where the space exceeds 1/4 inch the 1/4 inch space is on the collector part and isn't the issue the issue seems simply the path of the linkage going to the trans i will play with it more when i get time but here's a few pics for now.

ps. my progress is about to halt for a bit as i am forced to leave the car alone for possibly a month for other business sorry guys!!!


This will work
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 06:42 PM
  #1519  
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haha just found this and was going to look at the lokar product!!!

http://documents.holley.com/g_body_l..._tech_data.pdf
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 06:43 PM
  #1520  
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Originally Posted by G-BODY-JAMES
ok ive drawn to the best of my ability with a mouse the path of the linkage that interferes with the top of the header it interferes farther back where the space exceeds 1/4 inch the 1/4 inch space is on the collector part and isn't the issue the issue seems simply the path of the linkage going to the trans i will play with it more when i get time but here's a few pics for now.

ps. my progress is about to halt for a bit as i am forced to leave the car alone for possibly a month for other business sorry guys!!!
I think you should investigate the possibility of using the Lokar shift linkage kit, which will drop down on the inside of the collector and allow you to delete the factory frame bracket and crossbar.
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