The 302-2 can accommodate a 4" stroke if you are crafty like myself and others and possess the skills to do a fairly simply mod to it. This type of modification has already been carried out by a couple of employees at Holley to use the 302-3 in their own swaps with 4" cranks. I could also mod the 301-1 Holley pan to allow it's use with a 4" stroke crank in this application, but it would require more work.

There's more work involved in cutting down your engine mounts to relocate the engine than there is in fabbing a clearance pocket into the bottom of the 302-2 pan for the front crank throw I guarantee you...cut off wheels and TIG welders make the impossible possible.

 

I thought you had said you could not use a windage tray with a 4" stroke on the 302-2 pan just the 302-1 with some work? Another thing neither pan has trap doors you need to spend another $199 making that pan fairly expensive plus still needing mods to work so playing with the mounts seems way more cost effective/easier to me.

 

That's correct, you have to use a 3/4 length (F-body) windage tray with the 302-2 pan, which is the trade-off made for being able to take advantage of it's ultra compact profile up front to provide clearance around cross members and steering tie rod ends and achieve engine inclination angles that are hard to come by with most any other pan. If I was absolutely set on using a full length windage tray, I would modify the 302-1 pan and use it instead. The trap door baffle does come at a cost, but it's a nice piece and you end up with a pan that ties in structurally with the transmission as GM designed it to be.

 

I just hate the fact of having to cut on a new part to make it work and add parts to it to make it do the job of other pans out there that's just not worth it to me.

 

I understand, everyone has to set their own priorities for such a project. What pan do you plan on using?

 

I had planned on the Moroso 21150 that is why I was questioning if the Fbody pan would fit if the engine was pushed back it has about the same specs as the stock F pan. If that don't work maybe the Autokraft pan I really wanted a 7Qt pan though so I have less chance of sucking the pan dry.

 

Understood. You won't be able to fit the sump of the Moroso pan into the chassis without notching the front of the sump or the crossmember in my opinion. The Autokraft pan geometry is a better fit for the G-body application, but the height at it's front end is 1.75", so your installed engine height will have to be higher than what you can achieve with the combination of the 302-2 pan and the Hooker engine brackets. What accessory drive set-up do you plan on using?

 

Well, today is your lucky day if you happed to be using or contemplating the use of the Saginaw 700 quick ratio box...the GTO accessory drive set-up is compatible with the engine position provided by the new Hooker engine swap brackets (excluding the A/C compressor). It will not be compatible with the Saginaw 605 box however.
[IMG][/IMG]

 

Awesome! Thank you so much! My factory alternator has a black cap on the end of the pulley, I wonder if it will fit with that, or if it's necessary?

 

I just finished up all the work on mine. Car is an 87 regal. I used the following parts:

98-02 Fbody oil pan
98-02 Fbody accessories (P/S lines bolt right to the factory steering box)
Moroso SBC solid motor mounts and pads PN's: Mounts 62515 Pads 62630
Ebay 1" setback adaptors http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-Conversion-1-Set-Back-Motor-Mount-Adapter-Plates-/271431960032?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f329b05e0&vxp=mtr

 

The unit I received from the parts store did not have the cap, but my assumption is that it is a dust cap for the bearing in the pulley. If you wish to run the cap, you may have to clearance the box a little, or devise a cap that installs in the I.D. of the pulley.

 

WheelsUp84z Got any underside shots of how close the F pan is to the frame and how much room do you have between the firewall and heads?

 

I can tell you that the pan doesnt have but 1/4" tops from the frame. And between the head and the firewall, i cannot get a 3/8" rachet with a shallow 15mm socket on the bolt on the back of the head for the grounds , so I'd guess there is about 1.5" of clearance there. I would take pictures but its kind of crowded there now. Another thing I will mention, with the 1" setback plates, a th350, the stock crossmember, and the stock driveshaft bolt right in (original 307/200r4 car)

 

Can you get to the trans bell housing bolts without moving the engine?

 

The tunnel is pretty big and since the body sits on the frame there is a good amount of space, compaired to an fbody. I put the motor and trans in the car together, so i couldnt say for sure.

 

So the f body ls1 pan fits with out any notching?

 

I took some measurements, with the 1" setback plates, the driver side head is 1 5/8" from the firewall, passenger side is 3/4".....shes a tight fit! This is with the transmission installed and bolted to the crossmember. And yes the fbody oil pan with the 1" setback plate fit without notching. The pan is extremely tight fit but doesnt touch anywhere. I snapped 2 pictures, one looking straight at the oil pan from the driver side frame (side view), the other looking directly up at the bottom of the pan and frame.

 

Very tight fit!

 

Thanks for all the info, I am using the same Moroso mounts and Car Shop 1" setback plates.

 

I have read that the f body pacesetters will work in a g body, just that the drivers side collector is kicked out.

Will any other f body headers also work, or just the pacesetters?