The G-Body Swap Thread
#1681
#1683
So, I fixed the mounting issue with the CTSV pan by stocking it in the mill and cutting off this flange. I loved the quality of the mount, and it got rid of the clam shell like the others I used.
But...I had NO idea of the angle being wrong. I have a iceman 4l80 mount. The fab work is almost completed on the car at the shop. It has a empty trans in it for mock up so I can't even check angle. I am feeling sooooo nervous!
#1685
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Been going through this thread for a while know and have seen multiple mounts and setups used. but I'm just wondering what the best motor mount setup would be for my application: 79 cutlass 5.3 truck motor, 4l60e trans and hopefully stock accessory brackets, AC and truck intake. No plans for a turbo on this one.
#1686
Been going through this thread for a while know and have seen multiple mounts and setups used. but I'm just wondering what the best motor mount setup would be for my application: 79 cutlass 5.3 truck motor, 4l60e trans and hopefully stock accessory brackets, AC and truck intake. No plans for a turbo on this one.
#1689
Truck pan works but it hangs down quite a bit. To me it was like the old school deep sump pans.
best picture I could quickly find.
As far as manifolds, fbody ones would probably work. I used truck manifolds but had to modify the drivers side with a 45* elbow to miss the frame.
best picture I could quickly find.
As far as manifolds, fbody ones would probably work. I used truck manifolds but had to modify the drivers side with a 45* elbow to miss the frame.
#1690
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Been going through this thread for a while know and have seen multiple mounts and setups used. but I'm just wondering what the best motor mount setup would be for my application: 79 cutlass 5.3 truck motor, 4l60e trans and hopefully stock accessory brackets, AC and truck intake. No plans for a turbo on this one.
If I was going to do it again, I'd use BRP mounts with either a Holley pan or the gmpp musclecar pan, and then buy a set of speed engineering stainless headers made for a first gen f body and see how they fit. My ceramic coated brps are rusting already. Been about 4-5 years now and its disappointing.
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I like the BRP mounts due to them raising the engine higher than the plates everyone sells. Also don't like how the plates use the factory clamshells. BRP mount lets the musclecar pan clear no problem. When I did my swap only headers available were the BRP unless you wanted to modify Pacesetter f body ones which I did and they didnt work so I bought the crazy expensive BRPs.
If I was going to do it again, I'd use BRP mounts with either a Holley pan or the gmpp musclecar pan, and then buy a set of speed engineering stainless headers made for a first gen f body and see how they fit. My ceramic coated brps are rusting already. Been about 4-5 years now and its disappointing.
If I was going to do it again, I'd use BRP mounts with either a Holley pan or the gmpp musclecar pan, and then buy a set of speed engineering stainless headers made for a first gen f body and see how they fit. My ceramic coated brps are rusting already. Been about 4-5 years now and its disappointing.
#1694
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I like the BRP mounts due to them raising the engine higher than the plates everyone sells. Also don't like how the plates use the factory clamshells. BRP mount lets the musclecar pan clear no problem. When I did my swap only headers available were the BRP unless you wanted to modify Pacesetter f body ones which I did and they didnt work so I bought the crazy expensive BRPs.
If I was going to do it again, I'd use BRP mounts with either a Holley pan or the gmpp musclecar pan, and then buy a set of speed engineering stainless headers made for a first gen f body and see how they fit. My ceramic coated brps are rusting already. Been about 4-5 years now and its disappointing.
If I was going to do it again, I'd use BRP mounts with either a Holley pan or the gmpp musclecar pan, and then buy a set of speed engineering stainless headers made for a first gen f body and see how they fit. My ceramic coated brps are rusting already. Been about 4-5 years now and its disappointing.
#1697
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BRP Musclerods makes the 2" Long tubes for the G body cars but they are one of the ******** that I was talking about. Good luck if you have a problem like I did. Why do you really need the 2" primaries? Rich
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Well you can also add me to the list of those saying that you don't need the 2" primaries. With the larger primaries you will lose a little bit of torque and port velocity. 2" primaries belong on strictly a race car. Rich
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Anybody done any frame strengthening to the gbody? I'm not going nuts with my swap, I want around 400 horsepower and I'd like the car to handle it too. I realize the car was made for a 305, but is frame strengthening really necessary? The reason I question this now is because I saw an ls6 swapped g body and from what I saw didn't have any changes to the frame, minus the mounts for the 9in.