The Rookie vs. the 25.5 project.
08-30-2009, 07:01 PM
#81
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I must have missed the SFC's part 
The only thing I really don't like about the 25.5 stuff is the re-sale value... granted a CM 25.5 is A LOT better then a MS but it seems like more and more people are going with 25.2's because they are more desirable to others if they decide to sell.
I have learned to never buy or build something that will not be a huge pain to sell because even if I plan to never get rid of it the economey and proven otherwise to me haha.
The only thing I really don't like about the 25.5 stuff is the re-sale value... granted a CM 25.5 is A LOT better then a MS but it seems like more and more people are going with 25.2's because they are more desirable to others if they decide to sell.
I have learned to never buy or build something that will not be a huge pain to sell because even if I plan to never get rid of it the economey and proven otherwise to me haha.
I doubt he is gonna sell his stuff. I could be wrong, but from what I know of him, he does not build stuff thinking of what teh "resale" value might be a couple/few years down the road.
And really, no reason to even think about something like that anyway. Build it for you, what you want, go enjoy, done deal.
....LSMonster, teh book is ready to go, and gonna put her in teh mail tomorrow for ya.
Car is looking REAL good by the way, I like!
08-30-2009, 07:17 PM
#82
I doubt he is gonna sell his stuff. I could be wrong, but from what I know of him, he does not build stuff thinking of what teh "resale" value might be a couple/few years down the road.
And really, no reason to even think about something like that anyway. Build it for you, what you want, go enjoy, done deal.
....LSMonster, teh book is ready to go, and gonna put her in teh mail tomorrow for ya.
Car is looking REAL good by the way, I like!
And really, no reason to even think about something like that anyway. Build it for you, what you want, go enjoy, done deal.
....LSMonster, teh book is ready to go, and gonna put her in teh mail tomorrow for ya.
Car is looking REAL good by the way, I like!
I build cars for me and what I like but honestly keep in mind how hard it would be to sell if I had to....... example.... look at how popular MS 25.5's are...... yeah they can be done cheap but nobody really want's them because you are stuck at 7.5 and it is heavy... a CM 25.5 is not nearly as bad because it can be upgraded to a .2.
Maybe it is just the buisnessman in me
08-30-2009, 07:19 PM
#83
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I must have missed the SFC's part
The only thing I really don't like about the 25.5 stuff is the re-sale value... granted a CM 25.5 is A LOT better then a MS but it seems like more and more people are going with 25.2's because they are more desirable to others if they decide to sell.
I have learned to never buy or build something that will not be a huge pain to sell because even if I plan to never get rid of it the economey and proven otherwise to me haha.
You should ask the NHRA inspector when he goes to certify it if he could certify it to 25.4 and explain what it is and look at his reaction
The only thing I really don't like about the 25.5 stuff is the re-sale value... granted a CM 25.5 is A LOT better then a MS but it seems like more and more people are going with 25.2's because they are more desirable to others if they decide to sell.
I have learned to never buy or build something that will not be a huge pain to sell because even if I plan to never get rid of it the economey and proven otherwise to me haha.
You should ask the NHRA inspector when he goes to certify it if he could certify it to 25.4 and explain what it is and look at his reaction
And it's all good... If I ever decide to sell it, and someone wants something faster than a 7.50 car, I can modify it to whatever they want... Maybe by then the 25.3 spec will be out and I can update it to that. And that's really the point... I can change it at any time, and for any reason. But right now I just want to finished it, whatever "it" might be... It's more about the "fun of it" than anything else at this point... And to see if I can do it.
08-30-2009, 07:20 PM
#84
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I doubt he is gonna sell his stuff. I could be wrong, but from what I know of him, he does not build stuff thinking of what teh "resale" value might be a couple/few years down the road.
And really, no reason to even think about something like that anyway. Build it for you, what you want, go enjoy, done deal.
....LSMonster, teh book is ready to go, and gonna put her in teh mail tomorrow for ya.
Car is looking REAL good by the way, I like!
And really, no reason to even think about something like that anyway. Build it for you, what you want, go enjoy, done deal.
....LSMonster, teh book is ready to go, and gonna put her in teh mail tomorrow for ya.
Car is looking REAL good by the way, I like!
08-30-2009, 07:27 PM
#85
Oh I was just goofin' around with the 24.4 thingy... Hell, I didn't even know there was such a thing. I just said that because it was between somewhere between 25.5 and 25.2... And it's all good... If I ever decide to sell it, and someone wants something faster than a 7.50 car, I can modify it to whatever they want... Maybe by then the 25.3 spec will be out and I can update it to that. And that's really the point... I can change it at any time, and for any reason. But right now I just want to finished it, whatever "it" might be... It's more about the "fun of it" than anything else at this point... And to see if I can do it.
And it's all good... If I ever decide to sell it, and someone wants something faster than a 7.50 car, I can modify it to whatever they want... Maybe by then the 25.3 spec will be out and I can update it to that. And that's really the point... I can change it at any time, and for any reason. But right now I just want to finished it, whatever "it" might be... It's more about the "fun of it" than anything else at this point... And to see if I can do it.
08-31-2009, 12:04 AM
#86
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I thought I'd weigh it to see where I'm at so far with all these bars. Total weight is 1961 lbs. LF=532. LR=456 RF=501 RR=471 The engine is mostly complete and the tranny is in it, but no converter... But all things considered, I think that's pretty good. I'll take the bars out of the factory doors to save a few lbs there... And I'm going with a fiberglass rear hatch and hood, and lexan windows front and back... If I could keep it below 2800/2900 that would be nice... Any thoughts on the final weight?
08-31-2009, 08:53 AM
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I thought I'd weigh it to see where I'm at so far with all these bars. Total weight is 1961 lbs. LF=532. LR=456 RF=501 RR=471 The engine is mostly complete and the tranny is in it, but no converter... But all things considered, I think that's pretty good. I'll take the bars out of the factory doors to save a few lbs there... And I'm going with a fiberglass rear hatch and hood, and lexan windows front and back... If I could keep it below 2800/2900 that would be nice... Any thoughts on the final weight?
Attachment 195037
Attachment 195037
Yeah, that is real good. The Lexan will help quite a bit as well...going iron or aluminum block???
No reason you should not be down to @ 2800.
08-31-2009, 09:08 AM
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What I was saying is that I have never looked at it like that, and I have built and sold my share of cars over teh years. Because I always have looked at it like I was gonna keep the car forever, which has never happened with me, but that is how I looked at it anyways.
Also, because on race cars and parts, you are NEVER gonna get your money back anyway, so.....
I try and build something for me, but what I do TRY to do is plan for the future so I don't have to go back and redo something, now I will try to do that. Like, say my original plans are 8.90's, so all I need is basic cage, BUT, do I THINK I will won't to dip into the 7's?? So, I would probaly build a 25.5 cage as opposed to your basic cage, for that "what if".
That is how I try and do a build.
Your point and mine, are ALMOST the same though...
OK, now that we hijacked...
08-31-2009, 02:06 PM
#92
I thought I'd weigh it to see where I'm at so far with all these bars. Total weight is 1961 lbs. LF=532. LR=456 RF=501 RR=471 The engine is mostly complete and the tranny is in it, but no converter... But all things considered, I think that's pretty good. I'll take the bars out of the factory doors to save a few lbs there... And I'm going with a fiberglass rear hatch and hood, and lexan windows front and back... If I could keep it below 2800/2900 that would be nice... Any thoughts on the final weight?
Attachment 195037
Attachment 195037
While you are at it with the lexan why not go with the glass (race) doors?
Not cutting it up I think your weight goal is pretty realistic..... with driver...
08-31-2009, 03:13 PM
#93
I'm looking at doing a 25.5, and with my 275 lbs in the car, the goal is 2900 to 2950.
We are doing speedglass, I'll leave a factory forumla hatch though. Alot of tubular in the nose, no headlight motors, etc. It's not that unreal at ALL with an all alum. motor.
We are doing speedglass, I'll leave a factory forumla hatch though. Alot of tubular in the nose, no headlight motors, etc. It's not that unreal at ALL with an all alum. motor.
08-31-2009, 07:22 PM
#95
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The nice thing about the 25.2 spec is that it is alot simpler and more clear cut. Meaning you should never have a problem getting it certified. The 25.2 simply has more value because you know it is cromoly, and it is certified to run faster.
If you have spent anytime looking at the 25.5 spec you know that the book won't last you long with all the flipping back and forth to read all the notes for each tube and the different options you have. It will give you a headache the first time you read it.
Once thing you will need to meet 25.2 on your chassis is 2 vertical upright between your upper and lower crossemember. Can't remember if it is requred on 25.5.
Not to nit pic you work, but one other thing you might consider doing is to run a diagonal brace from each A-pilar bar at the base of the windshield to your mid plate mounts. Tieing into the middle of the dash bar with just one tube will not offer much strength.
If you have spent anytime looking at the 25.5 spec you know that the book won't last you long with all the flipping back and forth to read all the notes for each tube and the different options you have. It will give you a headache the first time you read it.
Once thing you will need to meet 25.2 on your chassis is 2 vertical upright between your upper and lower crossemember. Can't remember if it is requred on 25.5.
Not to nit pic you work, but one other thing you might consider doing is to run a diagonal brace from each A-pilar bar at the base of the windshield to your mid plate mounts. Tieing into the middle of the dash bar with just one tube will not offer much strength.
08-31-2009, 09:34 PM
#96
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The nice thing about the 25.2 spec is that it is alot simpler and more clear cut. Meaning you should never have a problem getting it certified. The 25.2 simply has more value because you know it is cromoly, and it is certified to run faster.
If you have spent anytime looking at the 25.5 spec you know that the book won't last you long with all the flipping back and forth to read all the notes for each tube and the different options you have. It will give you a headache the first time you read it.
Once thing you will need to meet 25.2 on your chassis is 2 vertical upright between your upper and lower crossemember. Can't remember if it is requred on 25.5.
Not to nit pic you work, but one other thing you might consider doing is to run a diagonal brace from each A-pilar bar at the base of the windshield to your mid plate mounts. Tieing into the middle of the dash bar with just one tube will not offer much strength.
If you have spent anytime looking at the 25.5 spec you know that the book won't last you long with all the flipping back and forth to read all the notes for each tube and the different options you have. It will give you a headache the first time you read it.
Once thing you will need to meet 25.2 on your chassis is 2 vertical upright between your upper and lower crossemember. Can't remember if it is requred on 25.5.
Not to nit pic you work, but one other thing you might consider doing is to run a diagonal brace from each A-pilar bar at the base of the windshield to your mid plate mounts. Tieing into the middle of the dash bar with just one tube will not offer much strength.
As far at the mid plate mount goes, the bar that I put in there from the dash bar was just something a little extra. It's not really doing a whole lot of work. The bars on the tunnel are the real mount... And it's solid. You could do a flying Bruce Lee kick to the tranny and the motor and it won't move... And that's with the transmission cross member taken out and the motor plate not bolted to anything. That mount, in comparison to the front "aluminum" motor plate being held on by three little water pump bolts per side... Now THAT looks like it needs some reinforcement. But I see then being used all over the place so I'm going to leave it as is... For now. I'm working on another version as we speak.
Keep the observations and recommendations coming... I'm listening and learning as we go. And I'm sure I'll change my mind about something three or four times before I call it "done" so keep that in mind too
09-15-2009, 11:57 PM
#98
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Well, the cage is complete. The inspector is coming out this weekend to either bless it or curse it... After that, I'll start putting something on the floor (Heat/noise barrier) Then I'll paint the cage. Then I'll start working on getting the seats permanently mounted and all the seat belt tabs welded in place. I might put those front engine bay bars in there before I paint everything... Might as well, it won't hurt to have them in there.
After that, I'll start putting something on the floor (Heat/noise barrier) Then I'll paint the cage. Then I'll start working on getting the seats permanently mounted and all the seat belt tabs welded in place. I might put those front engine bay bars in there before I paint everything... Might as well, it won't hurt to have them in there. 
Now I can work on other stuff for a while... One thing down, and a bizillion more other things to go 
