Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Hey did you have all of your ground together? Or did you put the blue/white somewhere and then the black heater ground somewhere else? I've seen both...

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Originally I had them separated - then I moved them all to the battery.

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

I re-ran them to the battery, but it still seems wacky. I did another pull and it started at 20 and went down to 13.5ish. It stays pegged at 20AFR and 5volts the majority of the time unless something significant happens.

Ideas? I'm going to recalibrate it with open air.

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Recalibrate it and see if it changes. Double check your equations in HPT

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9448
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11018
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...d-ls6-car.html

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

I know they don't really recommend getting power from the cigarette lighter. I get my power from the fuse box by the driver side door. I think there is a spare spot that says ignition. I've read alot of people have issues with the LC-1's, but I have the NGK afx and I ground mine right to the steering column. I've always been able to use the full 0-5v range while testing the sensor.

Dirty Vegas

iTrader: (12)

Oh, I know putting power to the track matters most. I wish I had trap speeds like yours. Dynojet, unlocked.

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Would getting your power from there cause misread errors? I don't mind it being constant on because I just put a switch in.

I did the free air calibration again, and its still screwy. I checked all my formulas and I beleive them to be correct. Logworks is reporting strange AFR as well, so I don't think it is on the hp tuners side at the moment.

Logworks read upwards of 26+ AFR at idle which doesn't make sense b/c according to my programming it should be limited to 20

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

I am thinking I might have a problem with my LM Programmer. After I change everything to what I want and hit program, I switch back to Logworks, and it still looks like this:



It is shaded out and won't let me adjust it. Is yours like this?

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

what firmware does it have on it? I never had anyluck with anything other than the original.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...ead.php?t=7501

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

I've heard changing firmware can brick the lc-1. I just can't decide if I suck at this that bad or if I just need to sell out of the. Lc-1 and buy a PLX or something.

I'm getting sick of this! I can't install my new stuff if I can't tune it afterwards..

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

it can if it loses power or connection - I didn't have any issues.

NGK AFX ftw

NSSANE02

iTrader: (14)

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Took a break from the wideband because its been pissing me off. I might be a ricer for even thinking about this, but I spent my time wrapping my headers instead



Its DEI titanium, suppose to have a higher resistance, it doesn't have to be applied wet, and doesn't need to be sprayed with ceramic coating..Every little bit helps right?

Jay-P

iTrader: (16)

I know it will help with exhaust flow... but man i hate seeing shiny stainless headers being wrapped. :~

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Noone said stainless, am I crazy??

Jay-P

iTrader: (16)

Sorry thought i had remembered you upgrading to a set of 1 7/8 kooks or something. my bad.

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Haha no, I meant am I crazy for wrapping coated headers. Lol.

Sorry for the confusion.


I pulled another 12-13 pounds off the nose today

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Wnts2Go10O

iTrader: (12)

nope, youre not. completely legitimate thing to do.

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Good. At least I have one persons support


I got my EWP mostly installed today. Mechanically it is all buttoned up, but I need to run some aluminum supports strategically and button up the front end/nose.

I did hit an AC line and leak out all the compressed air in the system, although no freon came out. I'm not really sure what needs to be done here?