Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Who needs to buy them when you can make them..



I'll hook ya up with a set if your not the DIY type of guy

NSSANE02

iTrader: (14)

Nice! That's what I shoulda done...

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Just for those who don't know, to make your own all you need is the tubing, the rod ends, jam nuts and spacers. At that point it all just twists together

Panhard bar:

(1) 39.5in aluminum threaded trailing arm part number RP-128-395 and found HERE
(1) 3/4in left hand rod end of choice with jam nut
(1) 3/4in right hand rod end of choice with jam nut
(4) spacers

Lower Control Arms:

(2) 16inch Aluminum threaded trailing arms part number RP-128-16 and found HERE

(2) Left hand 3/4in rod ends of choice and jam nuts
(2) Right hand 3/4in rod ends of choice and jam nuts
(8) spacers

All Rod ends, jam nuts and CORRECT spacers can be sourced directly from UMI Performance for about $25 a piece (1 set). And that is for the good teflon lined QA1 rod ends. You could obviously get cheaper ones online, but I prefer the quality of the teflon.

UMI are great people to deal with, and just tell them what you need and they will make sure you get the correct sizes etc. My bags were labeled for which ones were for LCA's and which were for PHB's

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

very nice idea but that tubing looks really small in diameter...what does each weigh?

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Its not my idea, people have been doing it awhile, the information just isn't super common. As far as strength they are plenty strong from everyone I have heard/ talked to. Your buddy Studderin runs this same setup..

PHB: 3.67lb
LCA's: 2.29 each

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Today I Installed the suspension stuff, the stock PHB is 5.46lb and stock LCA's are 4.43 each so I lost just over 6lbs swapping to the aluminum pieces

00blacka4

iTrader: (7)

lol very nice man, how much for a set of LCAs and PHB for me ? just wondering...

studderin

iTrader: (28)

ya, ran them for a few years now and been fine.

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Haha, its really not worth paying me to twist it together... ordering it yourself you can do it for just a bit over 200..

Golf&GM

iTrader: (22)

Good thread, have you run it yet? Any progress?

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Sorry no updates in forever, I've been slammed at work! I ran it last night bc the weather was good. I had to baby it out of the hole bc I still have the stock 10 bolt. It ran very well though.

Best ET of the night was 11.96 w/ a 1.99 60'. My MPHs went in order: 120.5, 120.4, 120.7, 120.67

Can't complain when my little guy has the 5th fastest MPH all time and the 2nd fastest 6sp MPH all time!

Cant wait to see what it can do with my 9in and everything else i have left to do!

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Slips and vids as soon as I can get them uploaded!

NSSANE02

iTrader: (14)

Very nice!

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

thank you sir! i knew it had it in it, i just had to actually do it lol. still waiting on the rear, a tune and about 100-140 more lbs out, and thats keepin the AC

Hows your build comin?

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Nice.

Makes me want to rip some weight out of my car

Some tips I've found on the MW 9" - leave the control arms in the stock hole - moving it creates way to much anti-squat. I started with the torque arm 1 hole from the top - and it needs to be moved down a hole yet. Once I got my Qa1's in the rear it started yanking the front about 2" and then bogging 20-30ft out. I've been working with 1Badair and it's came a long way from when I started, but needs a lot more tuning. It leaves the best a 5500 right now any higher and it starts slowing down. Once I can get a little spin out of the launch it should pick up considerably - right now it just dead hooks with the tires at 15psi. Go 4.30 gears - 4.10 just doesn't seem to be enough.

I went to the track once this year - before my accident, and now that I'm almost healed - I'm hoping I can still smack some gears.

I'm debating on leaving it stock internal or stick my cam/heads on it this spring.


Also check your fuel pump - mine couldn't keep up after I installed the new pump, I had to completely rescale my maf. The car seemed to run better afterwords, I won't know until I take it back to the track.

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

So I played with this for awhile and got frustrated, and just started working on it again. My AFR pegs at 20.9 and doesn't move... any suggestions??

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Did you calibrate it in fresh air?

I'm glad to be rid of my LC-1 - I really like my NGK AFX.

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

I'm gonna try again, but yes I did originally..


Edit: BTW thanks for the advice, thats going to come in very handy soon hopefully!!! For your car you need to decide what you want to do. To be blatantly hoenst, your not going to be super competitive stock internal unless you take some weight out. If your not willing to do that then, throw your heads and cam on and have fun

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Does it move from 20:1 or does it stay flat lined?

If it moves your getting some signal - your equation might be off in HPT

How did you configure the software?

I'd like to see 11's before I change setups - hell pulling the rear and passenger seats would have gotten me there......

Magnet

iTrader: (36)

Im not even using hptuners yet, I'm just trying to get logworks to work the only things I can think of is that 1. my wiring/soldering is bad (pretty possible) 2. My calibration in logworks is off (likely) 3. the schematic is wrong (doubtful) 4. LC-1 is broken (I sure hope not)