Looped Steering Rack Guys
02-19-2011, 02:03 PM
#1
Looped Steering Rack Guys ok...I did use the search function, and I know there is a bunch of threads discussing this...but I still have some questions...
I am running 15x4 prostars in the front, and eventually i DO plan on installing a legit manual rack...however for this season since my budget is getting tighter and tighter, I plan to run the oem rack looped.
My questions are as follows....
-Do you guys get as much fluid as you can out first, or do you try and fill the rack before looping?
-Do any of you experience "binding"? The reason I ask, is I had a friend who ran the stock rack manual, and he claimed when he got close to lock, it would bind up....however, he also never looped his lines, each port was just blocked. Could the way he plugged off the ports have caused this?
....please don't tell me to get a madman, burkhart, spohn or bmr unless you are going to donate the 500.00+
I really will spend the coin down the road, but for now to just get the car rolling for the spring, I wanted to clear up a few concerns I have about going this route.
Thanks in advance to all!
I am running 15x4 prostars in the front, and eventually i DO plan on installing a legit manual rack...however for this season since my budget is getting tighter and tighter, I plan to run the oem rack looped.
My questions are as follows....
-Do you guys get as much fluid as you can out first, or do you try and fill the rack before looping?
-Do any of you experience "binding"? The reason I ask, is I had a friend who ran the stock rack manual, and he claimed when he got close to lock, it would bind up....however, he also never looped his lines, each port was just blocked. Could the way he plugged off the ports have caused this?
....please don't tell me to get a madman, burkhart, spohn or bmr unless you are going to donate the 500.00+
I really will spend the coin down the road, but for now to just get the car rolling for the spring, I wanted to clear up a few concerns I have about going this route.
Thanks in advance to all!
02-19-2011, 02:09 PM
#2
All I did was pull the hoses and sealed the rack up with clear rtv, never had an issue, nor really saw a reason to go with a manual rack. I figured leaving some fluid in there is better than it being dry. It wasnt hard to drive with skinnies up front.
02-19-2011, 02:35 PM
#4
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I cut the lines off the rack and left enough to clamp a piece of hose on it. Whatever fluid that was still in the rack I left and I haven't had any issues in the three years its been like that.
02-19-2011, 04:21 PM
#5
I did the same, cut the lines off the stock rack, left a "nub" on both sides, little piece of rubber hose and a couple clamps later it was done. I got out what I could by just turning the wheel, what came out came out, then I looped it... called it a day.
Ran my car that way for a season and a half, no problems.
Ran my car that way for a season and a half, no problems.
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02-20-2011, 05:41 PM
#16
I see you took some weight out of the Kmemeber. Ive seen some guys cut the whole front skidplate part off under the rack, and weld in a cover plate with holes in it. Somne of thouse cutouts you did are better to not have a sqare corner in them. drill a 3/8 hole at min.
02-20-2011, 05:55 PM
#17
I see you took some weight out of the Kmemeber. Ive seen some guys cut the whole front skidplate part off under the rack, and weld in a cover plate with holes in it. Somne of thouse cutouts you did are better to not have a sqare corner in them. drill a 3/8 hole at min.
I realized what you were talking about after I painted it and my chassis guy mentioned the same thing
Its hard to tell in the photos, but the corners are a little rounded.
Im going to go back and clean them up a little more before its installed.
