AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for all the great responses. Although weather and Import Wars kept me from the track yesterday I talked to Madman and he says we will get it figured out. Just need to get to the track take some good vid and see what it looks like then he will steer me in what to do. In the mean time Ill get the car up on 4 ramps and recheck the PA and take a look at the yoke.
Again It does not feel like the clutch is slipping nor can I notice it on the tach but something is def not right. 124mph is way low for a 200shot. Its gone 119+ on motor. Im 100% sure the limiter is set at 7k. Its been the same for years and matches my tach perfect. Also sure it has 4.10s and 28" tires.

Rob Ill do everything I can to be at RSD. Wont be doing any money races until this POS is working right but at least we can T&T and thanks for the help.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Id have to double check the 330 but 60s were high 1.8s-2.2. The car will just not leave like it used to. It seems to start to transfer weight but then slams the front back down. Once the car starts going it feels good but that doesnt explain why I need to shift into 5th NA. The car also picked up 28mph on the back half so again doesnt really seem like the clutch is slipping.

Does anybody think its a possibility that the UMI drag bar could be set wrong? Causing the issue? Thats the one other thing I changed but forgot about till just now.

nocooler

iTrader: (5)

Drag bar shouldn't interfere with up and down movement just side to side.

Easy check on the slip yoke - loosen the shocks all the way and bounce back of the car up and down, if it moves freely your good - if it binds....it's time to start checking stuff.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Are you sayin it should slide in and out of the trans easy or the u-joints should move freely? The PST DS has always been tight getting on and off the trans output since it was new but it was never an issue b4.

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

I had a twisted slip yoke this year also. I was cutting 1.6-1.7's last year with slp lowered suspension. 1st few times out this year I always blew the tires off instantly and was cutting 1.85-1.9 60'. Checked my slip yoke and sure **** it wouldn't slide all the way into the tranny and was twisted. Replaced it with a strange chromemoly yoke and 1st pass out I was back in the 1.6x's. It played hell with me so I highly recommend checking that on a stick car.

jcoker

iTrader: (17)

I think my drag bar hurt my 60's, as stupid as that sounds. I think the car twisting up took some of the hit off the tires. I went from easy 1.47 60's to 1.52-1.60. But the car goes straight now. It use to leave like this.


here is a pic of the twisted yoke.

25thhawk

iTrader: (3)

With the pst shaft, twisted splines are a definite possibility. There stock yokes are crap. Even the strange cromoly yoke isnt that great. If you have a bad yoke I would switch to a mark williams. He uses a heat treated forging that he then machines down, and it is awesome. Only a little more that the strange unit and is the same piece they use on pro-mod cars. I can't see the drag bar being the problem.
Watching the videos on slicks, the car did pretty much the same thing only more violent on the hit because of the old shocks. It bounced the tire off the ground causing the spin, then hooked and bogged. The shocks and drag bar should have helped that alot, but maybe not so much on drag radials.
Definitely keep us posted. I gotta know whats up with the gear/tire issue. Everyday I'm waiting to see if you figured that out.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I know its driving me nuts. Tonight Ill have some time to get the car on ramps and start checking things. I also wonder if I raised the front of the car a bit if it would help with the weight transfer issue, or maybe tighten the extension on the front shocks to slow it from rising to fast.
I also picked up a th400 that worked fine when pulled. Now i need to decide if I should use my built th350 or have the 400 built for when I do swap the trans. BTW the 400 was free.

flyinZ

iTrader: (15)

Mike, use the TH350, when you swap trans'. It wont soak up as much HP as the 400 will(from what I've been told) and the 350's can be built up, just as tough as the 400.

slow67

iTrader: (2)

I disagree, 750hp is the practical limit to th350s. Some live past that, some don't, it's a crap shoot.

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

MIKE, you need a new torque arm!!!!!!!!!! HANDS MF DOWN.

get a adj. tq arm on it. I had a similar issue and it ended up being a tq arm.

PUT that on and start readjusting everything on the car and dial it in.

If I had one to lend you I would

Broke EF

Mike, if we make it out to RSD this Friday I can try and give you a hand trying to figure it out.

Sean

Pete91

iTrader: (4)

Your gearing sounds off because I just upgraded to 28" 275/60/15 from a 26"et streets. I have 456's,and was just bouncing the stock rev limiter at about the same 1200' mark in 4th with 26" tires mph was 110

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Thanks guys I should be at RSD unless it rains and I will use the 350 when I go A3. Ended up having to work on a buddies motor so no update if I found anything on mine.

The gearing does sound off but Its the same 4.10 gear thats been in it. The car used to go 1.6 60s, 11.6@119+ NA and would pull through the traps at just about the limiter in 4th on 26s and QTP 27s. Changed to 28s and new shocks and bam this is going on.

You guys think the bog is so bad 1st is being useless and making it so im practically starting in second?
Also If the PA is way off a new TA will be ordered asap.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Alright I got the car up on 4 ramps and got some measures.This is what I got with the angle finder. I also found the TA tore threw the front bushing and was stopped by the bracket, so Im not sure how accurate these are. I heard that doesnt affect PA just IC??
If I moved the bracket to the top hole the TA would be in the spot it is now.


rear TA bracket

drive shaft


I also did the floor and that was -2 on the finder
and the LCAs were +2 1/2

I measured the front fenders with the car on the ground and from the fender lip to the ground it was 26 1/8" on both sides and with the front lifted until the tires just barely touched the ground was 30 1/4" on both sides.


What do you guys come up with?

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

You need to measure from the fender lip to the bottom of the wheel rim, not to the ground. That removes any inconsistancies from your tires not being even l/r.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

If the TA mount was ripped in the front and the TA could move up/down a few inches, at all. ya that gona mess with things, could you hear it driving the car?
hows the front mounted. you have to fix that before you try to set anything.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Spend some $$ on a TA relocation cross member, takes the slop and stress of the trans case. MUCH more solid. I love mine. My stock set up mangled the clam shell and lucky I did not crack the case with some the tire lifting launches on the car.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I can do that again but it was even on both side and I filled up the front tires to 40psi. Then lifted the car until they just barely touched the ground. I mean i could forcefully spin them but the tires were touching. Both times they ended up the same on both sides.

I could not hear any strange banging going on. A new one is on the way.
I already have a UMI TA relocation trans cross member on the car. TA was set in the 2nd from the top hole.

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

Good idea mike, u will b much more satisfies with a adj. Tq arm