some pointers for hooking on the street????
#1
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I write checks with my mouth that my ass can't cash
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some pointers for hooking on the street????
my car doesent hook worth **** on concrete even with a good burnout...idk if im doing something majorly wrong or what...its only 324 horse to the tire...full bolt on car with SS4000 and 3.73 gears
Bigs n Littles with 275/50/15 ET street radials
adjustable short arm set to -1.5
all heim joint lower control arms/pan hard bar with relocation brakets
Anti-roll bar
strang SA front and rear, 275lb springs in front
idk if its the tires...everytime i burnout or anything it seems like they just feather really bad...and maybe thats why it spins...maybe a water burnout ? usually people hook pretty good on this concrete where the races go down but i cant seem to figure it out
Bigs n Littles with 275/50/15 ET street radials
adjustable short arm set to -1.5
all heim joint lower control arms/pan hard bar with relocation brakets
Anti-roll bar
strang SA front and rear, 275lb springs in front
idk if its the tires...everytime i burnout or anything it seems like they just feather really bad...and maybe thats why it spins...maybe a water burnout ? usually people hook pretty good on this concrete where the races go down but i cant seem to figure it out
#5
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I write checks with my mouth that my ass can't cash
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a hole higher will give it LESS pinion angle...and i gave it more pinion angle already and it hooked alot better...i just need to learn the right burnout so it doesent feather the tires i think
#6
#7
Surface temp and prep has big to do with "hooking". IF you could pre-prep, some PIMP Juice or even some VHT would do wonders. IF not able you can look at things like a 2 Step so you can limit your launch.
Automatics do not a great deal of driving skill but knowing the car helps and knowing how the car acts on the street, you can still do a great deal with foot breaking.
Automatics do not a great deal of driving skill but knowing the car helps and knowing how the car acts on the street, you can still do a great deal with foot breaking.
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#8
#9
May be that my MadMan geometry is a little different than your torque arm.
Last edited by WS6HUMMER; 09-16-2011 at 10:03 AM.
#12
I run my 275/60/15 M&H DR's at 17psi, no burnout, mash gas off idle and car dead hooks on the street. I just played with the pinion angle, tire pressure, and launch till I found what worked for my car.
#14
Go with taller tire like protree said ur tires are to short for the gears and stall that should fix ur problem u could do 70% vht and 30% alcohol I wouldn't do water cause the street ain't prep and mostly just for slicks cause Ull be spinning more with street tires
#16
That's allot of stall... Taller tire, or a Bias Ply tire.
Put the tq arm up as high as it'll go... usually there's only 2 holes, top one will bite harder.
LCA's should be level to the ground, ditch the Relocation brackets. Relocation brackets are great on the street, love them to increase handling, but they're ***** **** for making a car hook. Just a tad higher on the sub frame compared to the axle, almost flat is about right.
Pinion angle varies per car; on ZR1's with 315/35/17 mine is -1, on my 27" Hooser's it's -2.5 Don't get hung up on it.
Ditch your front sway bar if you haven't or just remove one of the links before racing.
I have a feeling you're stalling the car up, holding the brakes...
Leave off idle... if you're stalling the car up and you feel it transfer weight raising the *** end you're transferring weight to the front tires, which then has to transfer back to the rear tires.
BEST THING YOU CAN DO: Read the suspension posts by MAD MAN and keep trying different adjustments. I don't have a single product of his, but his suspension **** is spot ******* on, doesn't get any better.
Put the tq arm up as high as it'll go... usually there's only 2 holes, top one will bite harder.
LCA's should be level to the ground, ditch the Relocation brackets. Relocation brackets are great on the street, love them to increase handling, but they're ***** **** for making a car hook. Just a tad higher on the sub frame compared to the axle, almost flat is about right.
Pinion angle varies per car; on ZR1's with 315/35/17 mine is -1, on my 27" Hooser's it's -2.5 Don't get hung up on it.
Ditch your front sway bar if you haven't or just remove one of the links before racing.
I have a feeling you're stalling the car up, holding the brakes...
Leave off idle... if you're stalling the car up and you feel it transfer weight raising the *** end you're transferring weight to the front tires, which then has to transfer back to the rear tires.
BEST THING YOU CAN DO: Read the suspension posts by MAD MAN and keep trying different adjustments. I don't have a single product of his, but his suspension **** is spot ******* on, doesn't get any better.
#17
I have the same major problem - can't hook at all (best is 1.83s 60') on 28x11.5 MT Slicks. On the vids when I bring the revs up while footbraking, the rear raises up considerably - is it bad?
#18
Al