Rear shock relocation bracket?
Rear shock relocation bracket? I have seen cars with the madman rear shock relocation bracket to mount the rear shock turned 90 degrees from stock. Its supposed to eliminate bind I have heard. is this worth it? any noticeable 60ft gains? any other company's make them? I'd like a bolt on one if possible, madman's you have to weld and i'd have to find someone to do this for me.
here's a picture if you have never seen them before.
here's a picture if you have never seen them before.
The reason madman makes them weld on is for strength the last place you want to have some thing fail is in this spot. There r companies that make it bolt on I think hawks third gen does but gain if u ask madman and some other people around here weld on is the best. I prefer the weld on.
MWC makes them too. They can be bolted or welded.
The factory location creates a ton of binding. My suspension move a lot smooth after installing the relocation brackets.
Will the 60ft get better - maybe. Each car is different.
The factory location creates a ton of binding. My suspension move a lot smooth after installing the relocation brackets.
Will the 60ft get better - maybe. Each car is different.
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[QUOTE=StangEaterSS;15481445]I have seen cars with the madman rear shock relocation bracket to mount the rear shock turned 90 degrees from stock. Its supposed to eliminate bind I have heard. is this worth it? any noticeable 60ft gains? any other company's make them? I'd like a bolt on one if possible, madman's you have to weld and i'd have to find someone to do this for me.
If you have a bearing style mount on the bottom of your shock there will be not much of a noticeable difference in the performance, but most of the shocks have the valve adjusting **** the opposite direction as the bolt which may become an interference issue if the shock is mounted like stock. A shock with a bushing style lower mount will be a great benefit from less bind if the transverse mount is used.
Be cautious of what you buy if running coil-over shocks as this mount is taking all the rear weight percentage of the car.
We have the bolt-on style and weld-on style available and on the shelf ready to ship with unbeatable prices.
If you have a bearing style mount on the bottom of your shock there will be not much of a noticeable difference in the performance, but most of the shocks have the valve adjusting **** the opposite direction as the bolt which may become an interference issue if the shock is mounted like stock. A shock with a bushing style lower mount will be a great benefit from less bind if the transverse mount is used.
Be cautious of what you buy if running coil-over shocks as this mount is taking all the rear weight percentage of the car.
We have the bolt-on style and weld-on style available and on the shelf ready to ship with unbeatable prices.
If it is a stock style bolt in rear shock it will have the plastic insert. What you will do is remove that and put in the QA1 1" lower bearing and two clips. The stock stud style mount will clearly not work well for a coil over conversion and with some D/A shocks it is needed because of **** location.
We make them as a bolt in version for all rear ends on the market and if you prefer you could weld them on. How ever not so sure anyone has welded ours on at this point. They cover the complete distance from top to bottom of the mounting bracket and use two bolts to hold them into place.
We make them as a bolt in version for all rear ends on the market and if you prefer you could weld them on. How ever not so sure anyone has welded ours on at this point. They cover the complete distance from top to bottom of the mounting bracket and use two bolts to hold them into place.
I DIY set it up like this on my car. I used the "upper shock mount" kit form RJ profab/qtr. maxx for somthing like $15. I got new strange dual rear shocks that came a poly lower mount, and got them to work good. I forgot if they came with the shocks or the summit shocks I had beofre but had some tight fitting sleeves too. I turned down in a lathe to ring fit inside the poly bushing and very nice over the tab bolt (I think its called a NAS bolt, the good grade8 bolts with the sleeve sholder and a nyloc jam nut) And amde the sleeve a little longer then the bushing, so when you then the bolt up on the sleeve the bushing dose not get squished. I lowerd the tabs as much as possable, on most stock style shock mounts after you lower the car and set it up on 26/28 wheels your not it the middle of the shock range, that I hear you want to put the shock in. And shocks like the summit/ CE are too long for our cars too. So I made a getto rope travel limiter for them. So that helps with that too, and with stock coils cut the unload fully with a longer shock, So that helps with that. But its still not as nice are erics. or the racecraft housing brakets thous are really nice you you get a real housing.
edit
used these trimmed up a little, and cut some off the length off so the shock is 90*. These also help being a little longer to start if you move the rear end back to center it for 28's. I htink if you keep the shock tight on a stock braket it gets some back angle on them.
http://www.rjracecars.com/Upper-Shoc...-Prodview.html
dont have any good pics, but you get the idea
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...cture025-1.jpg
edit
used these trimmed up a little, and cut some off the length off so the shock is 90*. These also help being a little longer to start if you move the rear end back to center it for 28's. I htink if you keep the shock tight on a stock braket it gets some back angle on them.
http://www.rjracecars.com/Upper-Shoc...-Prodview.html
dont have any good pics, but you get the idea
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y11...cture025-1.jpg
Last edited by studderin; Oct 12, 2011 at 07:12 PM.
