does anybody have their line lock tied to the clutch switch to keep from rolling out of the beams? if not, what are people using to prevent rolling using a manual tranny?

 

Assuming your launch area is level, if your clutch releases properly you don't need a line lock. I have stock hydraulics and a Spec 4 clutch and billet flywheel. With the pedal depressed and the motor at 7000 rpm my car doesn't move.

 

ive heard of it but havent ever seen it.

 

Here I am launching off my 7200 rpm rev-limiter with no line lock.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUbv0U8C6MY

 

that's the whole point of my question. one of the lanes at our local track IS NOT level. otherwise it wouldn't be a problem

 

ok.

had nothing to do with my response to his post. you had a bit of a bog in 2nd too

some people may use it because of the faster reaction vs having to lift your foot off.

 

There is a wiring schematic to wire it all together in the Lingenfelter kit I bought but I didnt see a need to tie them together. Tracks I go to are flat enough. I take it your track is downhill?

 

I have a momentary button on the shifter for the line lock and 2 step. There's a toggle switch in line from the button to the 2 step. My process goes like this. Water box toggle switch (2 step) off, push brakes, depress button (line lock) let off brakes and do burn out. Then toggle switch on (2 step will now activate with the button along with the line lock). Roll up light pre-stage bulb, lightly press brake pedal and depress button (2 step and line lock now activated). Let off brake and use the clutch and gas to "bump" into the stage beam (lightly setting brakes will allow the car to move forward but not roll freely). Once both bulbs are lit got WOT, release button and clutch when launching.

 

lol. just one of the staging lanes actually rolls back slightly towards the water box. not much but if you've just tripped both staging lights and push the clutch in, you may roll back out.

 

thanks. appreciate the info.