12 BOLT street opinions !
#1
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So im biting the bullet and getting a 12 bolt for my car, for some reason with the noises my ten bolt is making after this year i think its necessary lol...give me some opinions on what i can do to get the weight and efficiency of a ten bolt with a bigger rearend and still drive on the street, (keep in mind my car is light!)
heres some of the options i need opinions on
31 vs. 33 spline axles
aluminum vs. steel spool
lightened axle ends ?
stepping to a bigger axle and running gundrilled on the street ?
microblue coating the ring and pinion
lightweight ring and pinion set
how much weight will i be adding if i do it right ?
Thanks
heres some of the options i need opinions on
31 vs. 33 spline axles
aluminum vs. steel spool
lightened axle ends ?
stepping to a bigger axle and running gundrilled on the street ?
microblue coating the ring and pinion
lightweight ring and pinion set
how much weight will i be adding if i do it right ?
Thanks
#2
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I wouldn't run a gun drilled axle, or an alum spool on the street neither is going to last all that well.
33 sp axle, steel spool, if you want to have the ring gear lightened go ahead. You can try putting some low drag bearings in it, and the microfinish will help with the drag, but you will add 80 to 90 lbs with it regardless what you do. Just the nature of the beast.
If you don't want to add any weight, you could have a chromoly housing built for a 9 inch, alum center section as well, but if you take that route be ready to shell about 5 grand out for it by the time you're done.
33 sp axle, steel spool, if you want to have the ring gear lightened go ahead. You can try putting some low drag bearings in it, and the microfinish will help with the drag, but you will add 80 to 90 lbs with it regardless what you do. Just the nature of the beast.
If you don't want to add any weight, you could have a chromoly housing built for a 9 inch, alum center section as well, but if you take that route be ready to shell about 5 grand out for it by the time you're done.
#4
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^^^ was going to say the same. Narrowed rear with a lighten ring gear and all the low drag bearings, Could get creative and drill holes where the lca mount to lighten it up a tad. But with the the money you spend in that. Could get a fab 9 inch with all the lightening stuff and be lighter than a 10 bolt.
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You can spend 5 grand on a rear end or more if you want to.. all depends how much weight you want off the thing.
You narrow it up 6 inches per side with a chromoly housing and an alum center section, and gun drilled star flanged 35 spline axles, and carbon fiber brakes from strange you probably can get one that's lighter then a 10 bolt.
But if you're going to spend that kind of money on the rear you better have every single other thing done first, because it's not going to make the difference that the same money spent in other places would do...
You narrow it up 6 inches per side with a chromoly housing and an alum center section, and gun drilled star flanged 35 spline axles, and carbon fiber brakes from strange you probably can get one that's lighter then a 10 bolt.
But if you're going to spend that kind of money on the rear you better have every single other thing done first, because it's not going to make the difference that the same money spent in other places would do...
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#9
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If you're building one from chromoly, I believe that. But, it's going to be a 2500 dollar housing.
I looked into this, and believe me the weight savings on a narrowed chromoly housing vs just narrowing up my 12 bolt, and the cost difference..
Well the 12 bolt will still be in the car.
Fwiw I know several people with 33 sp 12 bolt housing's that are in the bottom 8's and don't have any issues with the housing, gearsets or axles not lasting. One of the people I know that's doing this, is running bbc power and is in the 8.teen's and has over 250 runs on the same 4.10 gearset and 33 sp axles.. car is on a 33x10.5w tire and it hooks pretty hard. No rear end issues at all.
I looked into this, and believe me the weight savings on a narrowed chromoly housing vs just narrowing up my 12 bolt, and the cost difference..
Well the 12 bolt will still be in the car.
Fwiw I know several people with 33 sp 12 bolt housing's that are in the bottom 8's and don't have any issues with the housing, gearsets or axles not lasting. One of the people I know that's doing this, is running bbc power and is in the 8.teen's and has over 250 runs on the same 4.10 gearset and 33 sp axles.. car is on a 33x10.5w tire and it hooks pretty hard. No rear end issues at all.
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A stock width MWC 9" with spool and lightweight aluminum center section should way about the same as a 10 bolt (according to them). The standard center section is about 15 lbs more. You could pretty easily configure a rear with them and stay around $3500 (i just did) and that includes their torque arm.
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If you're building one from chromoly, I believe that. But, it's going to be a 2500 dollar housing.
I looked into this, and believe me the weight savings on a narrowed chromoly housing vs just narrowing up my 12 bolt, and the cost difference..
Well the 12 bolt will still be in the car.
Fwiw I know several people with 33 sp 12 bolt housing's that are in the bottom 8's and don't have any issues with the housing, gearsets or axles not lasting. One of the people I know that's doing this, is running bbc power and is in the 8.teen's and has over 250 runs on the same 4.10 gearset and 33 sp axles.. car is on a 33x10.5w tire and it hooks pretty hard. No rear end issues at all.
I looked into this, and believe me the weight savings on a narrowed chromoly housing vs just narrowing up my 12 bolt, and the cost difference..
Well the 12 bolt will still be in the car.
Fwiw I know several people with 33 sp 12 bolt housing's that are in the bottom 8's and don't have any issues with the housing, gearsets or axles not lasting. One of the people I know that's doing this, is running bbc power and is in the 8.teen's and has over 250 runs on the same 4.10 gearset and 33 sp axles.. car is on a 33x10.5w tire and it hooks pretty hard. No rear end issues at all.
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That is a key factor. Mike Meeks still had a 12 bolt in his car at Bradenton and Atlanta last year. He was making 7 second passes on it but his car is really light.
OP: Just call up Strange and tell them to build you a light 12 bolt with 31 spline axles, small diameter tubes, a spool, lightened ring gear, and star flanged axles. They can get close to 10 bolt weight but you will lose some of the durability. But for the extra money this will cost you could just buy the rear brakes and a standard rear end and probably be around the same weight. I would rather lose the rotational weight and spend my money on the drag brakes.
OP: Just call up Strange and tell them to build you a light 12 bolt with 31 spline axles, small diameter tubes, a spool, lightened ring gear, and star flanged axles. They can get close to 10 bolt weight but you will lose some of the durability. But for the extra money this will cost you could just buy the rear brakes and a standard rear end and probably be around the same weight. I would rather lose the rotational weight and spend my money on the drag brakes.
Last edited by 5.3LJimmy; 01-18-2012 at 09:06 AM.
#14
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Based on previous post from this guy he tends to go overboard. Long story if the short is JL is telling u the way it is. Can u do it? YES! Is it Worth it? Debatable at best. Look at ur budget and account for street abuse puts higher stress on all components. Also if u have deep funds then there should not be a worry about periodic matienceand replacement of parts.
#15
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You can do anything you want, people run spindle mount wheels on the street.
Does it make it a good idea? Is it pratical? All debatable.
If the OP spends a ton of $ trying to get a 12 bolt as light as a 10 bolt in an effort to not lose any power/gain any weight, is it going to run better? Probably not.
Fwiw, it's not totally uncommon to see cars with weights hanging on the rear end housing itself.. essentially making the rear (not rotational, rear itself) heavier to apply more constant and direct weight on the tires. Yes, I said that people actually add unsprung weight to the rear end housing to help get the tires to stay planted....
OP, I agree 100% that you need to ditch the 10 bolt, your new motor that you're Pm'd me about several times IS going to destroy the 10 bolt for sure. A 12 bolt will stand up to your use. But, being that you are going to drive this on the street, alot, I wouldn't even put a spool in it. An HD eaton posi, 33 sp axles, will serve you very well.
If, you spend a bunch of $ on the rear to get it lighter, I am 100%, that if you took that same difference in price, put it towards a nitrous kit for the new motor, that you will absolutely go faster spending the money in that way.
Or, save that money, and use it towards a cage since you are going to need it, or a transmission since you're going to need one of those too.
Fwiw, you have alot to look at once that new motor goes in as far as needed upgrades, it's going to need all the above mentioned stuff if you want it safe and legal for track use.
Does it make it a good idea? Is it pratical? All debatable.
If the OP spends a ton of $ trying to get a 12 bolt as light as a 10 bolt in an effort to not lose any power/gain any weight, is it going to run better? Probably not.
Fwiw, it's not totally uncommon to see cars with weights hanging on the rear end housing itself.. essentially making the rear (not rotational, rear itself) heavier to apply more constant and direct weight on the tires. Yes, I said that people actually add unsprung weight to the rear end housing to help get the tires to stay planted....
OP, I agree 100% that you need to ditch the 10 bolt, your new motor that you're Pm'd me about several times IS going to destroy the 10 bolt for sure. A 12 bolt will stand up to your use. But, being that you are going to drive this on the street, alot, I wouldn't even put a spool in it. An HD eaton posi, 33 sp axles, will serve you very well.
If, you spend a bunch of $ on the rear to get it lighter, I am 100%, that if you took that same difference in price, put it towards a nitrous kit for the new motor, that you will absolutely go faster spending the money in that way.
Or, save that money, and use it towards a cage since you are going to need it, or a transmission since you're going to need one of those too.
Fwiw, you have alot to look at once that new motor goes in as far as needed upgrades, it's going to need all the above mentioned stuff if you want it safe and legal for track use.