krissoto

iTrader: (3)

Anybody just cutting off the stock fittings and just flaring the lines to accept the standard brake fittings?

krissoto

iTrader: (3)

Has anyone tried it?

TPIIROC

iTrader: (1)

That should not be a problem

rickou812

iTrader: (10)

Just make sure you have a good quality flare tool. The stock line are very hard and extremely difficult to flare. On my car, I ran new lines to the front brakes up along the frame of the car so that I could drop the k-member without opening the brake system. I had to cut and flare the rear factory line and it was a pain in the ***!

krissoto

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys. I'm gonna try it.

Ego Killer

iTrader: (147)

I tried it and had nothing but problems mainly because I had a cheap flaring tool. I wond up replacing the lines and putting AN fittings on it and I like it 10x better looks better and way easier to work with

Money1

I use a K tool international Flaring tool.Its real easy to use.Only draw back is price.
The tube has to be off the car.If its a one and done deal its not worth it.I got mine
from Summit PN#KTI-700081

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (11)

I flared the stock lines on my TA without problems. I think the biggest mistake people make is cutting the tube skewed, it needs to be perfectly perpendicular. Then take your time and do it right.

studderin

iTrader: (28)

^^^ yup, and I found it worked better using a cut off wheel to cut the lines, and squaring the cuts up and deburring. The round wheel clamp manual twist cutter never got a flair to seal, or even look good. I think the line is so stiff it doesn't cut good with them, you end up putting to much clamping on the line to cut thu it.

krissoto

iTrader: (3)

I'm going another route instead of trying to flare the lines, I'm going to put a compression fitting on the lines and change over to a standard line. I think this will work better than buying an expensive flaring tool, and I can still clean it all up and make it look good. Thanks for all the opinions

dschmittie1

iTrader: (64)

Compression fittings are not a good idea. I know in PA compression fittings are not legal in brake lines to repair a brake line for state inspection

krissoto

iTrader: (3)

any certain reason why they are not a good idea? pretty much same components of putting it all together, just a different way of doing it

dschmittie1

iTrader: (64)

Compression fitting isn't going to hold up as well to pressure as a flared fitting will.

I am not sure how the rules are in MO but like. I stated here in PA if I see a car come in with a compression fitting in a brake like I have to fail it for safety inspection

krissoto

iTrader: (3)

Thank you for the input, Ill look into it.

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (14)

I got a regular flare tool from napa and did mine. If you measure it out right you can get the pre flared lines with the fittings on them and pretty much just bend them and bolt in place. Thats what I did with all my fronts and rear lines.The only stock line is the one for the back line under the car which i the one I flared (3 channel). For the fronts i just made a 6" or so piece from the line lock solenoit to a T fitting and the premade lines screwed right in. Terrible picture but you get the jist.

trans2000am

iTrader: (49)

I did mine in 3an all new lines and everything is mounted the the body so if I have to drop the rear or kmember I won't have to bleed the lines the flaring tool was around 140 but well worth it

krissoto

iTrader: (3)

I tried it out today, flared pretty easy I thought, on the manual master, does it matter which one u put the line lock on. Front or back does it matter?

krissoto

iTrader: (3)

It appears that front goes to front and rear to rear.

WheelsUp84z

iTrader: (14)

Front needs to go to the front rear to rear. Has to do with the proportiNg of the master cylinder

Kevin97ss

AN is the way to go, its so easy its pretty much fool proof. The Rigid 37 degree flaring tool is nice and small and can flare any material with out issue. The -3,-4 fittings are more expensive but infinitely reusable. Only word of caution is flaring the factory seamed tubing, It WILL split the seam if you do a full depth flare. I just backed the tube out of the bar a couple mm's and it was good.