Motor Plate on the Street?!?! Is this a no no?
08-08-2013, 08:11 AM
#1
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Motor Plate on the Street?!?! Is this a no no? My next Build is prb gonna be a Notch back Stang w a Lsx either Turbo or a Big 2 stage hit off the Bottle......
Street Strip Car w 800-900whp Max..
M6 or A4 will be the Trans....
Thinking of doing a Motor Plate setup and moving the motor back and down as far as possible even if I have to put a new trans tunnel in the Chassis.
Motor Plate would make this much easier...
Ive never done a motor plate build B4 but nothings impossible..
Next Question...are you guys putting a Spacer on the snout of the Crank to set the balancer out so the belt lines up w the rest of the accessory drives AND the balancer Seals on the timing cover?
Most plates Ive seen pics of move all the accessories that bolt to the front of the block because the plate covers the whole thing.
Looking at keeping power steering < Maybe..
A/C is kinda of important w the heat hear...
and
Alt...
Any input would be helpful Thx!
Street Strip Car w 800-900whp Max..
M6 or A4 will be the Trans....
Thinking of doing a Motor Plate setup and moving the motor back and down as far as possible even if I have to put a new trans tunnel in the Chassis.
Motor Plate would make this much easier...
Ive never done a motor plate build B4 but nothings impossible..
Next Question...are you guys putting a Spacer on the snout of the Crank to set the balancer out so the belt lines up w the rest of the accessory drives AND the balancer Seals on the timing cover?
Most plates Ive seen pics of move all the accessories that bolt to the front of the block because the plate covers the whole thing.
Looking at keeping power steering < Maybe..
A/C is kinda of important w the heat hear...
and
Alt...
Any input would be helpful Thx!
08-08-2013, 06:21 PM
#2
I run motor plates on the street (front and mid) and I LOVE it, my new build is getting them as well. My old plate was a 1/4" thick, but I designed some 3/8 plates that are a little more rugged.
As for accessories....depending on what set you are running, you can machine off the difference from the back of the accessory mounts and water pump.
My application was unique and I had to fabricate a reverse mount alternator with the correct spacing, but it works fine and I drive it 2.5 hours round trip to the track.
It all depends what you want/ need for accessories. by far the easiest method is EWP and single low mount alternator, but anything can work.
If you decide you want to go with plates, get in touch with me if you are interested in my universal 40" pieces.
As for accessories....depending on what set you are running, you can machine off the difference from the back of the accessory mounts and water pump.
My application was unique and I had to fabricate a reverse mount alternator with the correct spacing, but it works fine and I drive it 2.5 hours round trip to the track.
It all depends what you want/ need for accessories. by far the easiest method is EWP and single low mount alternator, but anything can work.
If you decide you want to go with plates, get in touch with me if you are interested in my universal 40" pieces.
08-09-2013, 03:41 PM
#4
I think generally guys who are running motor plates arent running traditional accessory drives. (the majority of them are running remote mount or electric water pumps, manual steering and etc)....however yes....the guys I have seen who retain stock style accessories are using that method.
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08-13-2013, 11:58 AM
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I would run a mid plate with the front plate. With both plates you will also need to run an engine limiter to hold the motor front to back from moving around. A lateral bar with two rod ends, from the engine to the frame rail will do. Also be sure to space your converter accordingly when you add the mid plate. No need for the solid trans mount. I would still run a poly trans mount with the plates just incase the car flexes any so there is no risk of cracking the trans case. That's my 2 cents on it.
08-13-2013, 12:35 PM
#9
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I would run a mid plate with the front plate. With both plates you will also need to run an engine limiter to hold the motor front to back from moving around. A lateral bar with two rod ends, from the engine to the frame rail will do. Also be sure to space your converter accordingly when you add the mid plate. No need for the solid trans mount. I would still run a poly trans mount with the plates just incase the car flexes any so there is no risk of cracking the trans case. That's my 2 cents on it.
08-16-2013, 11:49 AM
#11
I run motor plates on the street (front and mid) and I LOVE it, my new build is getting them as well. My old plate was a 1/4" thick, but I designed some 3/8 plates that are a little more rugged.
As for accessories....depending on what set you are running, you can machine off the difference from the back of the accessory mounts and water pump.
My application was unique and I had to fabricate a reverse mount alternator with the correct spacing, but it works fine and I drive it 2.5 hours round trip to the track.
It all depends what you want/ need for accessories. by far the easiest method is EWP and single low mount alternator, but anything can work.
If you decide you want to go with plates, get in touch with me if you are interested in my universal 40" pieces.
As for accessories....depending on what set you are running, you can machine off the difference from the back of the accessory mounts and water pump.
My application was unique and I had to fabricate a reverse mount alternator with the correct spacing, but it works fine and I drive it 2.5 hours round trip to the track.
It all depends what you want/ need for accessories. by far the easiest method is EWP and single low mount alternator, but anything can work.
If you decide you want to go with plates, get in touch with me if you are interested in my universal 40" pieces.
