jhelms

iTrader: (2)

That was confusing enough title wasn't it???

What is the best way to setup HAL shocks for the following car:

Heavy LS1 car, beefy rear, beefy clutch, 500+rwhp, ET Streets.

We want to leave off the rev limiter and hook up for low 1.6's.... (if possible)

thanks!

Damian

iTrader: (89)

John, I know your car is heavy but it damn sure ain't that heavy <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> ....

Raughammer

4000?, 4freaking-thousand?!?! Jeeeez. Man that is heavy.

Making something like that hook in an F-body would be a challenge. Good luck.

4000? ouch!

Colonel

Dayum! I don't think my car AND the trailor it sits on weighs 4000 lbs! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

Good luck!

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Hey...

I just did this two weeks ago, basically just changed shock settings from run to run...

Keeping in mind that stock shocks are 50/50...

I'd run the rears at 5/5 (left is loose, 5 from full loose)

I'd run the fronts at 2/2.

If you spin, try running the rears at 4/4.

If you deadhooked at 5/5, try 6/6.

The stiffer it is in the back the better it is. That nite at GLD I could not hook at 5/5 but deadhooked at 4/4.

I ultimately ran the fronts at 1/1 but it may have made no difference.

Someday I'll be at a track that hooks like mad and I'll be able to run 8/8 and 1/1 in the front. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I always run my fronts at 1/1 or 2/2 never 3/3.

John
1.53 last time out in crappy air

<small>[ September 27, 2002, 11:37 AM: Message edited by: Pro Stock John ]</small>

DERTY

John, $5 bucks says you can come off at 7/7 and 1/1 at Mid Michigan. It's a gamble, but the track does hook hard when it's ready to go. Of course it doesn't take much because they must have mixed VHT with the concrete and asphalt when they made the place.

As for 4000 pounds, WTF!! My car is a full interior with no weight reduction and a bunch of stuff added. With me in it it weighs a dead even 3750#. And I'm a big guy at 250#. So these guys must be using dead bodies as ballast or something, wow!

<small>[ September 26, 2002, 10:41 PM: Message edited by: derty ]</small>

jhelms

iTrader: (2)

Damian, not my car.

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

I know of several that are in this range (Les Hankinson's 97 TA comes to mind, and his isn't a convert either) that tip the scales at or near 4,000 # with driver.

Heck, fully loaded, full tank of gas, avg 180-200 # driver, a little stereo equipment and you're there, is that too far fetched?

Anyway, no one thinks this will hook at all on ET Streets?

What is the best way to setup HALS for 60' times?

tia,

<small>[ September 26, 2002, 12:56 PM: Message edited by: jhelms ]</small>

y2khawk

iTrader: (5)

Or a turbo kit <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> I'm damn close to that in weight <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" />

I've had pretty good luck at 4/4 and 4/4, 15 psi in the pass bag on 27" hoosier QTP's. Dead hooks on a free rev cluch dump at 5600, but spins off the 2-step at 5k. 4/4 and 3/3 seemed to help.

I could never run much less that 3/3 up front, the car just teeters if i run less than that. Rears unload fast.

JS

iTrader: (4)

I agree I like 3/3 for the front,maybe 2/2 sometimes.

The rear?????
I have the Comps set at 60/40 which is hard on the downforce.With my bag set at 18lbs this seems to work well.

JS

Lar's SS

One thing that effects the setting also is how us M6 guys drive after switching to Hals. If your not the best at "speed shifting" and you use a low setting on the front like 1/1 - 3/3, you will experience a bite of nose jumping going down the track. This will effect E/T. Practice, Practice, Practice. The best free mod is a good driver!