6pt roll bar to 10pt cage conversion... need to be cut out?
12-09-2004, 09:39 AM
#1
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6pt roll bar to 10pt cage conversion... need to be cut out? I've got a 6 point Wolfe Roll Bar in my car right now... (Chromoly, rear bars over gas tank)
Can I just buy the extra parts needed for a 10pt and have them installed or does the bar (main hoop) need to be cut out and rewelded?
Also for the 10pt conversion... it'd just be the 2 center bars (I have them... bought the 8pt bar but didn't have the 2 pieces welded in) and the Top bars that tie into the frame? This requires the dash be removed... anything else?
Can I just buy the extra parts needed for a 10pt and have them installed or does the bar (main hoop) need to be cut out and rewelded?
Also for the 10pt conversion... it'd just be the 2 center bars (I have them... bought the 8pt bar but didn't have the 2 pieces welded in) and the Top bars that tie into the frame? This requires the dash be removed... anything else?
12-09-2004, 09:43 AM
#2
I *think* as far as reality is concerned the two down bars that make the 6 point an "8 point" dont' really matter..I have them myself as you know.
for example when I was up at Alston with a buddy recently they referred to a full cage through the dash, etc as an 8 point, not a 10 point.
i don't see why you couldn't just get the kit that converts it to a 10 point from wolf that speed inc has and have it finished. I hope that comes with a side/rail bar on the floor., as I believe that is required for the cage as well.
for example when I was up at Alston with a buddy recently they referred to a full cage through the dash, etc as an 8 point, not a 10 point.
i don't see why you couldn't just get the kit that converts it to a 10 point from wolf that speed inc has and have it finished. I hope that comes with a side/rail bar on the floor., as I believe that is required for the cage as well.
12-09-2004, 09:55 AM
#3
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I converter my 6 point to a 10 point about 2 months ago. My 6 point had the main hoop #1 & #2, the 2 side bars from the main hoop to the floor by my feet #3 & #4. And the 2 down bars in the rear by the gas tank #5 & #6.
What you need to do is add the 2 additional bars from your main hoop to the tranny tunnel behind the 2 front seats. These are bars #7 & #8. This makes a 8 point cage.
Next you will add the halo bar off the main hoop, this is a big U shaped bar that goes around the roof of the car. Next (after you remove the dash) you will install the 2 front down bars that follow the window pillar and go down to your feet. These are bars #9 & #10. You will also install a cross bar between the 9 & 10 bar that runs behind the dash.
You do not need to have the additional side bar that runs along the floor from the main hoop to the 9 & 10.
Also a note to remember when installing the 9 & 10 bar DO NOT weld it on top of the side bar 3 & 4. This will not pass NHRA chassis cert, you cannot have any bar welded on top of another bar where in a roll over it could push down and bend the other bar. When I did my conversion I cut out my door bars and welded my 9 & 10 bars to the floor plate. I then installed new side bars from the main hoop down to where the 9 and 10 is welded to the plate.
My roll cage passed NHRA cert with ease.
Lee
What you need to do is add the 2 additional bars from your main hoop to the tranny tunnel behind the 2 front seats. These are bars #7 & #8. This makes a 8 point cage.
Next you will add the halo bar off the main hoop, this is a big U shaped bar that goes around the roof of the car. Next (after you remove the dash) you will install the 2 front down bars that follow the window pillar and go down to your feet. These are bars #9 & #10. You will also install a cross bar between the 9 & 10 bar that runs behind the dash.
You do not need to have the additional side bar that runs along the floor from the main hoop to the 9 & 10.
Also a note to remember when installing the 9 & 10 bar DO NOT weld it on top of the side bar 3 & 4. This will not pass NHRA chassis cert, you cannot have any bar welded on top of another bar where in a roll over it could push down and bend the other bar. When I did my conversion I cut out my door bars and welded my 9 & 10 bars to the floor plate. I then installed new side bars from the main hoop down to where the 9 and 10 is welded to the plate.
My roll cage passed NHRA cert with ease.
Lee
12-09-2004, 10:46 AM
#4
lee the bars going tot he tranny tunnel behind the seats are the two mike is referring to that he has not installed, and are the ones that I'm saying that I do have installed currently, so i do have an 8 point already at this point. Wolf calls them "subframe down bars" when you order everything up.
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12-09-2004, 02:01 PM
#8
Mike, isn't your rollbar a Wolfe rollbar? If so, they sell a "front half kit" that turns it into a cage, already jig notched and everything....
Click here....
Click here....
12-09-2004, 02:25 PM
#10
Originally Posted by SPANKY LS1
Mike, isn't your rollbar a Wolfe rollbar? If so, they sell a "front half kit" that turns it into a cage, already jig notched and everything....
Click here....
Click here....
Shawn 
12-10-2004, 09:36 AM
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If you buy the Wolfe "Front half kit" it will come with new door bars, then you can tie the new door bars in to the front down bars and keep them on one 6x6 plate. I did the conversion a couple years ago, wasn't too bad.
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1966 Chevy II twin turbo LS3 project
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1966 Chevy II twin turbo LS3 project
2016 Z07 Carbon
