My new setup will consist of a TH350 w/transbrake, a Protorque converter with a stall speed anywhere from 4800-5200 (hopefully 5000+ as requested), a 4.56 gear, and 29.5x10.5 ET Drags. I dont now how this setup is going to react and it will be a much more aggressive and drag oriented compared to my old setup. I want to be sure that when I go out after I get the car back together, that do things right. I want to get the most out of my setup without having to change a billion things and having to make several passes. I know it will take some getting used to and will take some passes to get it dialed in. Anyhow, do ya'll guys leave off the converter or do you have a 2-step and have it at a certain rpm? I would think leaving off the converter would have better results, but you never know, some things work in the opposite. I dont have a 2-step, so its either off the converter or have the pedal down to the desired rpm. What works best for you out there with similar setups, off the converter, or a set rpm? I think I remember seeing a post stating that Harlan isn't making anymore of the 2-steps which sucks if I ever need to get one. Let me know guys, thanks.

 

My car with a Turbo 400/brake , 4.71 gear and a 28/10.5/15 tire I leave on the Mat all the time.. My Vigilante stalls on the brake at 5100 RPM's...I find my car is much more consistant since I bracket race the car 100% of the time..

I don't change anything as far as my starting line deal..I stage the same , release the brake at the first hint of yellow since I'm a top bulb leaver..Since going to the Turbo 400 all I've had to between races is just clean the car and get it gassed up for the next race..I don't change shock settings because I basically run the same track week after week...

 

Damn, thats a lot of gear for that size tire! What rpms are you shifting at and what's the limiter at? Definately too much for my setup. What do you mean leave on the Mat all the time? When you state that the converter stalls up to 5100 rpms off the brake, that means your foot to the floor with the transbrake engaged, and thats the rpms it sits at? Is that the way you tell how much your converter is stalled to? I havent gotten the car all the way back together, so I dont know but my range will be anywhere from 4800-5200. What do you usually run on your shock settings and what shocks are you running?

 

on the mat= gas to the floor (mat)

 

Gas and go. Don't even worry about the two step unless you are trying to slow the car down. You'll find that the converter will more than likely react better without it anyway. To figure out what yours stalls at, while in your driveway hold the transbrake and give-her-hell. Watch your tach and it will eventually peak out at it's max stall speed. Boosted cars are trickier because the stall speed creeps as a function of boost pressure. It's not going to react like it's going to bounce off the rev-limiter. It will just climb and hold. What ever you do, DO NOT let go of the button after standing on the brake until it comes all the way back down to idle. You can break ****, or drive through your garage pretty easy. Surprising how disconnected the brain can get when you let off the pedal but it's still revving down.

 

I shift the car at 7000 and cross the traps at 7100..My limiter is set at 7390 RPM's..On my footbrake the car stalls around 3800 and with the transbrake engaged the converter stalls to a true 5100 RPM ..

I set my front shocks at 1 with about 4" of travel on my frontend limiters and my rears are at 7..My 60's stay in the low 1.50 range consistantly..

 

My buddy went from going off the converter stall to setting the two stage about 800-900 rpm's below the stall, and then as he releases the brake, the nitrous comes on and actually acts to "sling-shot" the converter. It helped his 60's by over a tenth (went from 1.40's because the converter is very tight to high 1.20's and that's on 28x12.5 et streets, 4.10's, and no sissy bars). Obviously not something you'd do on a turbo setup, but it might be worth trying for a motor setup and for sure a nitrous setup.

 

Wow, its definately going to be a different animal leaving at 5000 rpms off the transbrake with a 4.56 and 29.5" slicks compared to off the footbrake of about 2800 rpms, a 4.10 gear and 26" slicks. I hope the car doesn't do a wheel stand and make me **** in my pants! Car should be close to 3000 lbs. with me in it if not below. Before I could get them off the ground anywhere from 4"-8". Anyhow, with the old setup, I ran my R series Hals at 3 and rears at 6 with tire pressure 11.5 psi hot and I believe the torque arm was -2.5º. Would those settings be the same with the new setup? I'll be running a 29.5" tall tire vs. a 26" and instead of footbraking at 2800 rpms with the suspension loaded, I'll be leaving at 5000 rpms with it not loaded. I'm pumped about the new setup, but scared at the same time. I want the car to roll out, but I dont want to break ****. I have a fully built TH350, Denny's nitrous ready driveshaft with 1350 u-joint, Strange 12 bolt w/a 4.56, spool, narrowed 3" per side, and will have my new Floyd RT Bogarts and rear Strange Drag brakes. Does all of that sound like it'll hold up to 5000 transbrake launches? I'm probably going to have to screw down my wheels to the tires huh? Oh...and I also got rid of the 25mm Spohn swaybar for the Wolfe anti-roll drag bar!

 

What's a 'Floyd RT' ? New design?

I leave with it all the way up on the converter unless I want to slow the car down. Mines a 1.76 glide, 6000 converter, t-brake, 4.56's, 32" tires. I am going to try 'flashing' the converter next time out using the 2 step and see if it helps the 60' at all.

Get ready for a ride though....that combo with the low 1st in the th350 should hit pretty hard!

 

Yes, the Floyd RT is a new design and I believe there is a pic on SJM's site over to your right on the sponsor list. I should be the 4th person to have them.

On my TH350, I kept the stock 1 gear ratio, I just didnt feel a 2.75 over the 2.52 was worth the $600.