NHRA rules on gussets and incomplete welds
#3
Every bar that isnt welded 360* needs a gusset. The gusset needs to be 4" long. You can use 1" tubing or .083 chromemoly folded plate.
#4
this might be a stipud question but dies the gusset have to be welded 360* around?
I'm assuming phil is asking becuae he can't get to the very top off the bar so it would be just as hard to get to the top of the gusset but i could be totally wrong...
I'm assuming phil is asking becuae he can't get to the very top off the bar so it would be just as hard to get to the top of the gusset but i could be totally wrong...
#6
Originally Posted by Phil99vette
Thats a great question. My main hoop bars are about 1/2" from the roof of the car. I probably won't be able to weld the top of the gussets either.
Phil
Phil
agian easier without shield and this is a 25-2 car the uppers are easier on a 25-5 less gussets,and a whole lot easier in an 8.50 cage
Last edited by NRC-Motorsports; 03-12-2007 at 05:24 PM.
#7
Originally Posted by Phil99vette
Thats a great question. My main hoop bars are about 1/2" from the roof of the car. I probably won't be able to weld the top of the gussets either.
Phil
Phil
have you welded your floor plates in yet?
if not why not cut a hole slighly larger than the od of the tube on all body mouning points and drop the cage down to get acess to the top of the bar, then when youweld the 6x6 plates you cover the hole and i doubt you would lose any strenght or rigidity
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#8
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Thats what I should have done but yes, the floor plates are done. I should have tack welded the subframe connectors and floor bars and removed them once the cage was tack welded. That would have dropped the cage a good 12" or so.
#9
Originally Posted by Phil99vette
Thats what I should have done but yes, the floor plates are done. I should have tack welded the subframe connectors and floor bars and removed them once the cage was tack welded. That would have dropped the cage a good 12" or so.