Rim Screw guys.....
05-16-2007, 08:46 AM
#2
I bought the jig kit from Jegs, and am very happy i spent the 20 for it. After that, i put 8 per side, which is plenty IMO. Any more and you are forcing too much wrinkle on the sidewall. As for the tire, you are supposed to drill the rim w/o the tire on there, then mount the tire, and put the screws in.
Pretty simple process. What i did was had my slicks dismounted, did my holes, then put the tires back on in the garage myself(a little damn and some effort, and they will slide over the lip of the rim with the soft sidewall). I installed my screws, and THEN took them and balanced them(or else the screws might throw off the balance a little).
Good luck with it man!
Pretty simple process. What i did was had my slicks dismounted, did my holes, then put the tires back on in the garage myself(a little damn and some effort, and they will slide over the lip of the rim with the soft sidewall). I installed my screws, and THEN took them and balanced them(or else the screws might throw off the balance a little).
Good luck with it man!
05-16-2007, 09:01 AM
#3
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Cool. Thanks Tim. I'll visit Jegs site today and pick up a set. Didn't think about the screws might throw the balance off. Good info. I found out after 2 passes the drivers side spin 2 1/2 inches. -Mark
05-16-2007, 11:52 AM
#6
Originally Posted by MADMAN
The tire will wrinkle where ever the screws are. I usually run 10-12 per side and stagger the screws from one side to the other.
that's alot of screws! Any particular reason you run that many, is it just to get the tire to evenly wrinkle, issues with breaking less screws?
I'm hoping not to have the movment issues with a radial tire... but on the other hand I bought the screws to put 16 per wheel (8 per side) if they move like the last set of bias ply tires I ran.... I see any more then a 1/4 inch of movement per run and they're getting screwed for sure.
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05-16-2007, 12:20 PM
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Madman- I've never heard of staggering the screws. Wouldn't that cause the tire to wrinkle to one side? My thinking behind that is if the wrinkles on either side are in the same places respectively then to car "should" go straight. But if the wrinkles are in different places, I would think the car might go left or right??? -Mark
Last edited by Bitemark46; 05-16-2007 at 03:10 PM.
05-16-2007, 02:19 PM
#10
[QUOTE=
I'm hoping not to have the movment issues with a radial tire..[/QUOTE]
With the radial tire you should be ok with 8 per side. Also with the radial tire you run more air pressure which helps the rim/screws hold the tire better. I never had any movement on mine with the radial tire and 8 per side.
I'm hoping not to have the movment issues with a radial tire..[/QUOTE]
With the radial tire you should be ok with 8 per side. Also with the radial tire you run more air pressure which helps the rim/screws hold the tire better. I never had any movement on mine with the radial tire and 8 per side.
05-16-2007, 02:29 PM
#11
more wrinkles = less shake.... then I'm gonna ahve to look into that. I really didn't want to drill the **** out of my bogarts like that... but now it's seeming like a good idea.
What about the air leakage issues... what is everyone doing to get the tires to hold air after the drilling/screws.. I know tubes, but I don't want to go that route, not with a radial tire.
What about the air leakage issues... what is everyone doing to get the tires to hold air after the drilling/screws.. I know tubes, but I don't want to go that route, not with a radial tire.
05-16-2007, 02:32 PM
#12
Originally Posted by JL ws-6
What about the air leakage issues... what is everyone doing to get the tires to hold air after the drilling/screws.. I know tubes, but I don't want to go that route, not with a radial tire.
05-16-2007, 03:12 PM
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From what I thought the screws do not completely go all the way through the bead. I've always thought they leak quicker than non screwed rims. -Mark
05-16-2007, 09:12 PM
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My opinion 8-12 per side, per HP, more = more. I have done with tire mounted & not mounted. You should be able to feel without drilling thru tire. Screws do not go thru bead, or they would pop the tube. We always balance after screwing, as said, obvious reason. Never heard the stagger thing either, but if the man says, then it's probably correct. I always kept exactly the same, thinking it would help balance.
.
My opinion 8-12 per side, per HP, more = more. I have done with tire mounted & not mounted. You should be able to feel without drilling thru tire. Screws do not go thru bead, or they would pop the tube. We always balance after screwing, as said, obvious reason. Never heard the stagger thing either, but if the man says, then it's probably correct. I always kept exactly the same, thinking it would help balance.
.
05-16-2007, 09:50 PM
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some guys say don't screw the drag radials, and I have a good buddy running 7.70s at 180 mph in a procharged '88 Camaro on M/T drag radials without rim screws and they don't move.
My slicks need a few passes to rotate a little but then don't seem to move again. I'm in the same boat of not wanting to drill holes.
Derek
My slicks need a few passes to rotate a little but then don't seem to move again. I'm in the same boat of not wanting to drill holes.
Derek
05-18-2007, 02:40 AM
#19
I did 8 per side with the tire's still mounted.
Marked it with a template, center punched my marks, and drilled it slowly so it didn't catch and go through the tire when it broke through the rim.
I also kept them in-line inside/outside. The "staggered" way is interesting and I'm curious to the benefits.
Marked it with a template, center punched my marks, and drilled it slowly so it didn't catch and go through the tire when it broke through the rim.
I also kept them in-line inside/outside. The "staggered" way is interesting and I'm curious to the benefits.
05-18-2007, 07:14 AM
#20
I use a drop of clear silicone in the screw holes before I screw them down, someone told me once that keeps the air in so I've been doing it for years-whether it really works-who knows? 