SFI 25.2 Mustang/LSx build "The Renegade"
11-17-2007, 11:04 AM
#223
The paint comes in Silver, Charcoal and Graphite, the graphite is the middle color and what I used. Its pretty thick and I think it should be able to handle some serious abuse. I started with a good self etching primer and laid the duplicolor ontop and looks pretty good IMO.
11-18-2007, 07:07 PM
#225
Mockup of rear sheetmetal to block off between frame rails
Front radiator core support modified for turbo clearance
Front radiator core support modified for turbo clearance pic 2:
Clearance very tight between A pillar bars and A pillar cover, A pillar had to be cut and welded to give me 1/2" more room between the bar and the cover. The cover had to be modified slightly but its not noticeable.
Finally decided on the paint, used the texture paint with duplicolor clear enamel ontop. The pics don't do it justice, its bad ***.
Front radiator core support modified for turbo clearance
Front radiator core support modified for turbo clearance pic 2:
Clearance very tight between A pillar bars and A pillar cover, A pillar had to be cut and welded to give me 1/2" more room between the bar and the cover. The cover had to be modified slightly but its not noticeable.
Finally decided on the paint, used the texture paint with duplicolor clear enamel ontop. The pics don't do it justice, its bad ***.
11-21-2007, 09:59 PM
#227
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-tech/818022-weight-removed-mini-tubbing.html
Pics you wanted to see what was cut out is posted now
Pics you wanted to see what was cut out is posted now
11-22-2007, 09:35 AM
#229
Chris,
Thanks for the pics, I was looking to see how much would be removed if I tub'd the mustang but I've got more than enough room as it is. The only reason I'd have to tub is if I ran a 13-15" rear tire.
Thanks for the support guys!
Thanks for the pics, I was looking to see how much would be removed if I tub'd the mustang but I've got more than enough room as it is. The only reason I'd have to tub is if I ran a 13-15" rear tire.
Thanks for the support guys!
11-22-2007, 01:48 PM
#231
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I like mini tubbing period, it is nice to set the wheels how you like and not have to worry about rubbing or tire shake.
I decided to go with a 315 60 15 from the start, mark my words I'll be the fastest looking drag radial tired car with a stock motor
I decided to go with a 315 60 15 from the start, mark my words I'll be the fastest looking drag radial tired car with a stock motor
11-25-2007, 02:17 PM
#232
Made some kick *** progress this morning. Got the rear end out - measured - cut the big ends off and narrowed it 1/2" on both sides. Welded the ends back on and she is ready to go back into the car. Got the trunk area boxed out so there is no big gaping hole in the trunk anymore. I've got 2-3 more things to do before I load it on in the hauler and take it to my dads house so he can get the body work done while I build the powertrain. I'll throw some pics up tonight.
Phil
Phil
11-25-2007, 06:49 PM
#233
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Made some kick *** progress this morning. Got the rear end out - measured - cut the big ends off and narrowed it 1/2" on both sides. Welded the ends back on and she is ready to go back into the car. Got the trunk area boxed out so there is no big gaping hole in the trunk anymore. I've got 2-3 more things to do before I load it on in the hauler and take it to my dads house so he can get the body work done while I build the powertrain. I'll throw some pics up tonight.
Phil
Phil
11-25-2007, 08:50 PM
#237
Did you do anything with the torque boxes? They are a very weak point on these cars, and are known to pull away from the body. For something like you're doing, they really need to be re-enforced, along with being fully welded to the body. I can take some pics of one I just done, if you want to take a look. Upr, and wild rides make kits to re-enforce them, but you don't really need anything special to do it. I take some 16awg flat stock, and cut it to fit inside the boxes, and then weld them. And then, I cut a 6"x6" plate to go on the inside of the car and weld them to the floor pan. For the lower boxes, I use 2 grade 8 3/8" bolts on each, and for the uppers, I use 2 grade 8 9/16" x 3.5" bolts. This sandwiches the boxes to the floor pan. Not sure if you followed along with that, but like I said, I'll take some pics if you want to see what I'm talking about.
11-26-2007, 03:17 PM
#238
Great news, last night I stayed up til 3 getting everything done. Got the
- window net mounts relocated to the inside of the cage
- front corners of firewall patched for nose bars
- final fire wall patch panels made and welded
- rear sheetmetal done
The only things I have left are not really important...
- C02 mounts - I'll probably end up using bar style mounts, I had thought about using a 1/4" bar to mount them to a C shaped 16 ga piece of sheetmetal and use a clamp
- Rear seat sheetmetal
- accusump mounts
I think I'll try and get it over to my dads house this week so we can start the body work and I can start the powertrain.
Phil
- window net mounts relocated to the inside of the cage
- front corners of firewall patched for nose bars
- final fire wall patch panels made and welded
- rear sheetmetal done
The only things I have left are not really important...
- C02 mounts - I'll probably end up using bar style mounts, I had thought about using a 1/4" bar to mount them to a C shaped 16 ga piece of sheetmetal and use a clamp
- Rear seat sheetmetal
- accusump mounts
I think I'll try and get it over to my dads house this week so we can start the body work and I can start the powertrain.
Phil