SFI 25.2 Mustang/LSx build "The Renegade"
#2585
Race your car!
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I have a question, for you guys that are adding onto cages that are already painted: What are you doing with the paint when you repaint? Reason I ask... is I can see there being lines all over the place from the different thickness paints.... are you stripping the old paint off? hitting it with a scotchbrite disk to blend them in? Nothing at all?
Curious, becuase I see alot of people *** onto cars all the time, and this is something I've wondered about. I did it with my own car, but I used an epoxy-urethane paint that's really tough stuff... and it's thick, applied with a foam brush and it levels itself as it dries. But even with that, I found myself sanding and repainting some spots to get it to look right.
Curious as to what you guys are doing....
Curious, becuase I see alot of people *** onto cars all the time, and this is something I've wondered about. I did it with my own car, but I used an epoxy-urethane paint that's really tough stuff... and it's thick, applied with a foam brush and it levels itself as it dries. But even with that, I found myself sanding and repainting some spots to get it to look right.
Curious as to what you guys are doing....
#2587
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
Got ya. You think that's bad.. the epoxy urethane stuff I used clogs the paper quick.. but it does take a BEATING and doesn't chip/scratch easily. Takes a while to dry too, like a day and a half, sometimes 2 if it's cold but it does look decent, almost like powdercoat.
Next round of mods, where I have to repaint, I'm gonna try jut scotch-brite, and see how that scuffs the older paint up... I think it might work for the initial prep.
Next round of mods, where I have to repaint, I'm gonna try jut scotch-brite, and see how that scuffs the older paint up... I think it might work for the initial prep.
#2588
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racecars arent saposed to be show cars... when you get a close look at some of the fastest cars in the business... most of them are nice but not super nice and clean.... the race car body/chassis is just a tool to smoke some ones ***
#2595
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I know...but it doesn't specify any different. (these specs are written HORRIBLY)
says minimum size for uninterrupted is 1 5/8 x .083 (no gussets needed)
but can use 1 1/4 if you use 4 gussets
it said 1 1/2 is the absolute min for interrupted windshield bars that needs 2 gussets above (one on each side)
Since the spec associated the 1.5" bar with gussets above it, I personally would put the gussets above...that way there's no doubt come certification...
says minimum size for uninterrupted is 1 5/8 x .083 (no gussets needed)
but can use 1 1/4 if you use 4 gussets
it said 1 1/2 is the absolute min for interrupted windshield bars that needs 2 gussets above (one on each side)
Since the spec associated the 1.5" bar with gussets above it, I personally would put the gussets above...that way there's no doubt come certification...
#2596
FormerVendor
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here's the way i read it.If the dash bar does not interrupt the roof bars and is smaller than 1 5/8(1 1/4 min)that it is required to have 4-1'' gussets-2 upper and 2 lower.
The 2 gusset deal is ONLY mentioned when the roof bars are interrupted.
The 2 gusset deal is ONLY mentioned when the roof bars are interrupted.
#2598
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the guys with the fastest cars dont have time to build show cars as they usually expect to hit the wall during a season or atleast rotate them out ever 1 or 2 seasons.... aka lynch mob
#2599
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thats the problem with these specs. an interrupted windshield bar is less structurally sound than an uninterrupted one...why would 2 gussets be ok with that but need 4 when its in one piece?