SFI 25.2 Mustang/LSx build "The Renegade"
#3130
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that would be great if we were running pure aluminum oxide pipes,but since the oxide layer is micro thin-it's going to melt like normal alumnium at 1250F.usually on gas motors we try to run 11ga right out of the turbo and switch to 14ga downstream.I have seen some guys melt right through their downpipes if made incorrectly.
#3131
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that would be great if we were running pure aluminum oxide pipes,but since the oxide layer is micro thin-it's going to melt like normal alumnium at 1250F.usually on gas motors we try to run 11ga right out of the turbo and switch to 14ga downstream.I have seen some guys melt right through their downpipes if made incorrectly.
Only drag cars i've seen have a problem is when people put a 90 right against the turbo and run 14g. We run 14g on our car and three customer's cars with no issues, just depends on how you can route it. All the street car we build have 11g for the downpipe as you mention just to ensure it doesn't fatigue and cause any problems.
#3136
Very good idea. Do you control that with the boost controller as well? Unfortunatly for me, I only make ~1000hp at the crank so I don't need that precise of control, but the next build will be a bit more stout and I want to have as much info as possible before I dive in.
#3137
Very good idea. Do you control that with the boost controller as well? Unfortunatly for me, I only make ~1000hp at the crank so I don't need that precise of control, but the next build will be a bit more stout and I want to have as much info as possible before I dive in.
Now is no different, the big difference between what we are doing and what everyone else is doing is we're looking at every individual piece, than each system to see if it can be tweaked to gain additional consistency and extract any performance advantage. I'm not looking to go to the race track and be a 1st or 2nd round duck, I want to have a car I can put a tune up in and go down the race track and not have to cut a .000 light to beat a faster car, we'll pull the power and save parts if needed.
I think everyone will see what its all about when we finally start making hits again, the chassis is right, the power train is phuckin killer, the power management is perfect. I want a car that is capable of sub 1.15 60's on the right track, 172-174mph in the 1/8 mile and the rest we can take care of by using only as much as we need. And thats no typo, 172 to 174 with a single 106 and small block. Imagine if we actually had some money to spend....