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SFI 25.2 Mustang/LSx build "The Renegade"

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Old 01-02-2008, 12:10 AM
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looking sweet Phil

Kyle
Old 01-02-2008, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by JRracing
Lookin good Phil. That 3M seam sealer is some good stuff. I use it in my body shop. You gotta let it dry for a day or so before you paint over it or it will stay soft. I know you not painting it right away. Just a tip for future reference.
How hard does the 3m stuff get once its dry? The stuff I got from eastwood gets rock hard.
Old 01-02-2008, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by RAGENZ28
HAHA yes the side panels are fun to trim aren't they?

I had my tub raised all the way up to the top and I had to cut a lot of mine out and when you have those curves and bends it gets a little tricky.

I just cut some and then kept pulling the panel on and off over and over and over taking a little here and a little there until it left like an 1/8" gap all the way around because I plan to cover mine with something, carpet or some kind of coating.

Did you make a pattern or just eye ball it and cut a little at a time?
I measured back from the bottom and down from the top to get the front and top of the tub. I stood over it while I eye-balled the radius. It was within 1/2" the first time and just kept cutting it in car. Its got about 1/8" gap from top to bottom. I'm going to make a template to cut the 2nd one. Whats funny is I cut the first one and came out perfect. When I tried to duplicate the 2nd I f-d it up BAD!
Old 01-02-2008, 03:34 PM
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That sucks, hey 1st time isn't always that easy, I know what you mean, after you do one side and spend an hour the second side seem to go 3x as fast and turn out 1/2 as good


So you have 17" that means you have about 3.5" inside of the tire so you might as well switch to the 315 60 15 now and narrow that rear end
Old 01-02-2008, 07:46 PM
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wow u can really see how big that turbo is with that bumper on. kind of decieving in the previous pics. i like it
Old 01-02-2008, 08:00 PM
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Wow!!! Car looks great. Makes me realize i need to get moving a little faster on my turbo 408 notchback. Coming along nicely there.
Old 01-04-2008, 04:11 PM
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Last edited by Phil99vette; 01-04-2008 at 08:34 PM.
Old 01-04-2008, 04:19 PM
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Don't forget the warning sticker.
Attached Thumbnails SFI 25.2 Mustang/LSx build "The Renegade"-img_0591.jpg  
Old 01-04-2008, 06:54 PM
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The very last thing on the list is to fabricate the shock mounts.

The lower mount is decided. I'm going to make a 3/16" plate that welds to the back brace and drops down. I'll make a couple of tabs that bolts to the plate and to the shocks. S & W race cars has one in their catalog..
http://www.swracecars.com/shopdispla...t=Shock+Mounts
Item 40-229

The top mount leaves some options...
I can make a plate that I weld to the frame rail that has two shock tabs and would require very little additional tin work.

I could also tube mount them, weld a tube between the frame rails and add shock tabs but would require additional tin work since most of my stuff in the back of the car is mounted at the bottom of the frame rails.

I think either one would work the same but the idea of less tin work is better.
Old 01-04-2008, 10:11 PM
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ok i think i am going to have to add this car to the short list if mustangs i want to drive lol. lookin good, starting to come together well
Old 01-04-2008, 11:41 PM
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I'd just weld two tabs to each side of the frame on top. Why add the extra weight of a bar you don't need you have a lot of bars an the car already.
Old 01-06-2008, 02:46 PM
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I got the car ready to go to the body shop next weekend so I switched gears and started working on the motor. I'm waiting on a set of Smith brothers custom pushrods and I should be able to finish up the motor. I still have to do a couple of mods to the oil pan and pickup.




Had to modify a 12 point wrench to be able to tighten bolt. Welded old socket on the open end and grinded down the other end to gain access.


Too many head bolts to torque, 46 to be exact. 105lbs on the 1/2", 47lbs on the 3/8" and 25lbs on the 8mm. I've gone through one cycle.


Kurts custom fitting for accusump.


Rockers are just inplace waiting for pushrods
Old 01-06-2008, 05:45 PM
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Looks awsome Phil.... while your in there ya migt as well paint that rusty *** metal behind the dash..... with at least flat balck LOL

Kyle
Old 01-06-2008, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
Looks awsome Phil.... while your in there ya migt as well paint that rusty *** metal behind the dash..... with at least flat balck LOL

Kyle
Kyle,
My dad is going to soak it in metal ready and hit it with a coat of black while he is painting it.
Old 01-07-2008, 02:28 AM
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You didn't polish the valve covers or front cover yet
Old 01-11-2008, 08:57 PM
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Did alittle work on the rear suspension...






Old 01-11-2008, 10:37 PM
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Are you going to have enough travel with those coil overs?
Old 01-12-2008, 12:11 AM
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I think so, I've got some ~1" spacers between the frame rails and the rear end. If I took the spacers out the rear axles would hit the frame rails and I'd still have about 1/2" of travel in the shocks. The shocks are showing 2+" or so of travel.
Old 01-12-2008, 01:29 PM
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I have a Smith Brothers 12 bolt and Smith Brothers forged steel driveshaft in my car.

Very happy with them, not worried about breaking those tanks
Old 01-12-2008, 06:25 PM
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I'm not 100% sure but from what I remember you usually run the rear coil over 2/3 collapsed so if it has 6" of travel you'd mount it so it still has about 2" of downward travel. But having a little over 2" sounds good to me, BTW nice idea on the two tabs on the frame rails


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