SFI 25.2 Mustang/LSx build "The Renegade"
07-27-2011, 02:21 PM
#4201
Pretty sure we will make the 8/26 ODR race at MIR.
You going to make that one?
We are hoping/trying not to change much if anything this off season so we can race the begining of next year. LOL!
07-28-2011, 12:09 PM
#4203
Got the spark plug issue fixed this morning, motor and trans are back in, started working on finishing up the project "AN Hose Explosion". This car has soo many hoses on it its stupid. I feel like its got no less than 25 hoses on the motor, the driver side is just layered with hoses feeding water/oil and fuel to this stupid thing. I've got to make one more hose and the hose portion of this project is done, need to make a 28" hose to feed oil to the motor from the filter.
08-02-2011, 12:34 PM
#4204
Got started early today(4:30). Finished a handful of projects...
- installed intake/throttlebody and intercooler piping
- finished the primary fuel system/lines
- finished dry sump oil lines, added 8 quarts of oil and primed the motro
- Finished the water lines and found a leak due to a nicked fitting, had a handful of -12 dry sump fitting and cut the female portion off and cut the old one off/tig welded the new one on
- refilled the water system and checked for leaks
- bolted the torque converter up, filled the tranny with 7 quarts of fluid
- gapped/installed the spark plugs
- started wiring the motor, have 2 plugs left to shorten/connect
- installed turbo/blanket/new -6 feed line and -12 return line
- picked up 10 gallons of C16
Thursday I still need to:
- check the torque on the exhaust manifolds
- install the v-band on the turbine
- install plug wires
- check all the bolts
- set timing
- check tranny fluid level
- make a new feed/return line for the secondary injectors
- go over the motor and double check the basics
I am going to try to start the motor with the 2nd fuel system since its a pita to start with an unprimed belt drive setup. Should be able to fire the motor thursday, worst case senario sunday, and if all looks good, testing shortly.
- installed intake/throttlebody and intercooler piping
- finished the primary fuel system/lines
- finished dry sump oil lines, added 8 quarts of oil and primed the motro
- Finished the water lines and found a leak due to a nicked fitting, had a handful of -12 dry sump fitting and cut the female portion off and cut the old one off/tig welded the new one on
- refilled the water system and checked for leaks
- bolted the torque converter up, filled the tranny with 7 quarts of fluid
- gapped/installed the spark plugs
- started wiring the motor, have 2 plugs left to shorten/connect
- installed turbo/blanket/new -6 feed line and -12 return line
- picked up 10 gallons of C16
Thursday I still need to:
- check the torque on the exhaust manifolds
- install the v-band on the turbine
- install plug wires
- check all the bolts
- set timing
- check tranny fluid level
- make a new feed/return line for the secondary injectors
- go over the motor and double check the basics
I am going to try to start the motor with the 2nd fuel system since its a pita to start with an unprimed belt drive setup. Should be able to fire the motor thursday, worst case senario sunday, and if all looks good, testing shortly.
08-02-2011, 06:36 PM
#4205
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Since Ive never messed with a belt drive setup, whats involved in priming it? Do you have to prime it every time you start the car, or just if it isnt run for a few days?
Cant wait to see this thing run again.
Cant wait to see this thing run again.
08-02-2011, 06:50 PM
#4206
If I can find some wiggle room in the lines, I can put a drill/hex on the front and prime it that way.
08-03-2011, 07:16 PM
#4208
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Usually it needs to be primed once(when you have dry lines). You just gotta crank over the motor until you get fuel pressure, I usually crack the fittings at the regulator until they start leaking and than tighten them down. Belt/hex drive fuel pumps are hard to start initally but once you get the air out of the lines they are fine.
If I can find some wiggle room in the lines, I can put a drill/hex on the front and prime it that way.
If I can find some wiggle room in the lines, I can put a drill/hex on the front and prime it that way.
08-04-2011, 01:30 AM
#4211
And if the pump is cavitating there won't be steady fuel pressure which makes turning any motor over inconsistent. I know if I don't let my pumps hit 39psi(idle pressure) she doesn't like to start. She will most of the time, but she will stumble for one-two and then smooth out. With steady set pressure(set idle pressure) the motor will start a lot easier.
08-04-2011, 12:14 PM
#4214
Had a tough morning. Had bad o-rings on 3 injectors from the q16 + a bad o-ring on the return side of the regulator. Pulled the intake and had to get new o-rings. Got that fixed, held 60# of fuel pressure. Swapped the injector harness so the secondarys were the primaries. Motor fired right up 1st shot, had to adjust the TB alittle to get it to idle but idles perfect at 1050. Had to add 15% fuel to get it to idle right. While the motor was running the main fuel system primed it self and holds steady at 60psi also.
New water system works pretty good, no issues bleeding, water temps dont go over 165 without any fan on the radiator. Post some pics soon.
New water system works pretty good, no issues bleeding, water temps dont go over 165 without any fan on the radiator. Post some pics soon.
Last edited by Phil99vette; 08-04-2011 at 03:57 PM.
08-04-2011, 12:15 PM
#4215
I don't think so. I think that would defeat the purpose in firing the motor with the second fuel system to primarily prime the belt driven pump. It's like a pump that needs to prime it's going to cavitate for a couple seconds, could be longer depending how much air is in the lines and/or if there are any leaks.
And if the pump is cavitating there won't be steady fuel pressure which makes turning any motor over inconsistent. I know if I don't let my pumps hit 39psi(idle pressure) she doesn't like to start. She will most of the time, but she will stumble for one-two and then smooth out. With steady set pressure(set idle pressure) the motor will start a lot easier.
And if the pump is cavitating there won't be steady fuel pressure which makes turning any motor over inconsistent. I know if I don't let my pumps hit 39psi(idle pressure) she doesn't like to start. She will most of the time, but she will stumble for one-two and then smooth out. With steady set pressure(set idle pressure) the motor will start a lot easier.
08-04-2011, 04:21 PM
#4218
can't wait to see you make some passes
Full car, etc.
08-04-2011, 09:21 PM
#4220
I tell ya what.....
Its not the cleanest
Its not the best paint job
Its not the best craftsmanship
I can say this.....its got a powerplant that will rotate the earth, a suspension that will put all of it down, and a power management system that is insanely precise. Oh, I will knock the dust off it before we go test/hit our first race.
Its not the cleanest
Its not the best paint job
Its not the best craftsmanship
I can say this.....its got a powerplant that will rotate the earth, a suspension that will put all of it down, and a power management system that is insanely precise. Oh, I will knock the dust off it before we go test/hit our first race.
Last edited by Phil99vette; 08-04-2011 at 09:27 PM.