SFI 25.2 Mustang/LSx build "The Renegade"
#622
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From: Port Tobacco, MD
Last night I cleaned up the shop to work sunday. Found 3 fittings that were leaking slowly, going to have to tighten them up more sunday. Hopefully we can get the brake lines secured and the brakes bled sunday.
We also found that #3 and #7 were not firing so we addressed that last night and the motor really purs now. We got the idle down to 900 with the 260/254 cam. Sounds nice, very nice.
We also found that #3 and #7 were not firing so we addressed that last night and the motor really purs now. We got the idle down to 900 with the 260/254 cam. Sounds nice, very nice.
#624
it was a 50/50 shot o well heh.
my car takes 3-4 seconds to fire during cranking.. its an ls1 set up thing with bs3 from what i understand.
my truck with bs3 fires right away (hei single coil no cam sensor)
my car takes 3-4 seconds to fire during cranking.. its an ls1 set up thing with bs3 from what i understand.
my truck with bs3 fires right away (hei single coil no cam sensor)
#626
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From: Port Tobacco, MD
Finished up the brakes today, checked all the lines and one was leaking slowly so just tightened it up alittle. Started on the wiring and hopfully get it done thursday with my dads help. I'd love to have it off the stands and driving around the neighborhood.
#636
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From: Port Tobacco, MD
Not much time to report, now I'm in blitz mode trying to get it done....
Parking lights done
Brake lights done
Reverse lights done
Power windows wired, need to be finalized
Power locks wired, need to be finalized
Need to check new location for brake switch, on rear lines that only gets 30% split, probably going to move forward if they don't come on quicker after final bleed.
Front windshield installed
Rear windshield installed
Did I mention the wiring is a pain in the ***? Getting closer
Parking lights done
Brake lights done
Reverse lights done
Power windows wired, need to be finalized
Power locks wired, need to be finalized
Need to check new location for brake switch, on rear lines that only gets 30% split, probably going to move forward if they don't come on quicker after final bleed.
Front windshield installed
Rear windshield installed
Did I mention the wiring is a pain in the ***? Getting closer
#639
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From: Port Tobacco, MD
I'm off work early today so I'm going to try get some of the wiring finalized. Since the wiring is all brand new, I've been rough wiring sections than verifying it works correctly. Once it works correctly I'll take them down and cut to length, splice solder and heat-shrink.
Had some issues wiring the power locks and windows. The power windows were a pain since both switches need to work together. We ended up eliminating the generic control module(BCM) and using 2 relays in each door for the power locks.
We need to move our brake switch from the rear line to the front line to get the brake lights to come on quicker, right now you can press the brakes down 1" of the 3" of travel and just start to get brake lights. Hoping moving the switch to the front will activate quicker.
Had some issues wiring the power locks and windows. The power windows were a pain since both switches need to work together. We ended up eliminating the generic control module(BCM) and using 2 relays in each door for the power locks.
We need to move our brake switch from the rear line to the front line to get the brake lights to come on quicker, right now you can press the brakes down 1" of the 3" of travel and just start to get brake lights. Hoping moving the switch to the front will activate quicker.
#640
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From: Port Tobacco, MD
Not sure if how I wired the locks is correct...
Used some very very small 5 terminal relays
For the locks, I just added 2 relays inside each door...
Relay 1 Driver door:
Lock wire to Relay coil
Relay coil to ground
Relay fixed out to motor wire A(Lock wire)
switched relay close to ground
switched relay open to +12
Relay 2:
Driver door
Unlock wire to Relay coil
Relay coil to ground
Relay fixed out to motor wire b(Unlock wire)
switched relay close to ground
switched relay open to +12
When the lock relay is closed the wire A gets a ground
When the lock relay is open the wire A gets +12
When the unlock relay is closed the wire B gets a ground
When the unlock relay is open the wire B gets +12
Basically both wires are resting @ Ground, when you hit lock or unlock it operates the relay and switched that wire to +12.
Ran a Jumper wire from the driver Lock and Unlock wire and tied them into the relays in the passenger side door so both door switches operate both doors.
Used some very very small 5 terminal relays
For the locks, I just added 2 relays inside each door...
Relay 1 Driver door:
Lock wire to Relay coil
Relay coil to ground
Relay fixed out to motor wire A(Lock wire)
switched relay close to ground
switched relay open to +12
Relay 2:
Driver door
Unlock wire to Relay coil
Relay coil to ground
Relay fixed out to motor wire b(Unlock wire)
switched relay close to ground
switched relay open to +12
When the lock relay is closed the wire A gets a ground
When the lock relay is open the wire A gets +12
When the unlock relay is closed the wire B gets a ground
When the unlock relay is open the wire B gets +12
Basically both wires are resting @ Ground, when you hit lock or unlock it operates the relay and switched that wire to +12.
Ran a Jumper wire from the driver Lock and Unlock wire and tied them into the relays in the passenger side door so both door switches operate both doors.