Whats your torque arm and60'?
06-04-2008, 09:32 PM
#24
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I would love a good explanation to be honest, I've just read all the old threads about it and I can't make sense out of it.
I just want to know, if the car's standing up, what is going to help stop it, moving the front of the tq arm up or down, with the rear control arm angle not changing?
I just want to know, if the car's standing up, what is going to help stop it, moving the front of the tq arm up or down, with the rear control arm angle not changing?
PS - I have a Madman and average 1.32's, been 1.34 on the rear tires and 1.31 with a slight bit of spin, if I can keep the nose down and dead hook, I think she'll see 1.2's!
06-05-2008, 04:52 AM
#26
Devon the problem is that I'm not making huge power and it did that, with a little Nos plate and a 150 shot.
I don't know what would have happened if I was hitting it like alot of guys to with 250 out of the hole, christ it woudl ahve flipped over.
ONce I have the limiters on I'm gonna call Madman and talk to him about all this crap. I haven't scaled the car and I don't know where the corner weights are, I have access to a set and can do it that's not a big deal, but I'm suspecting the front to rear bias is a little off, with the bottle and battery in the trunk now, the back got another 75 lbs, and the nose lost about 145 by my guesstimate. That was all it took to make a car go from barely pulling a tire at all, to way too much.
Car's 3330 with my 280 lbs in it now, I still have the stock k member and a arms on it, and the stock fuel system in the car, I still haven't gotten around to putting the little 3 gal cell in the nose and ditching the stock tank, rear bumper support is still in too, so there's a solid 100 lbs left to take out, stock hood is still on too, but I think that's gonna stay, I don't want the headache of a lift off.
It would seem that lowering the tq arm position may be a good idea at this point, but I don't want to make too many changes at once. 1 lb of added air pressure (up to 14) and the limiters with the shocks at the same settings they were at when it stood up is what I want to start with, with the 100 jets in it which didn't stand the car up with, start with the bottle pressure at 950.
If that leaves good and doesn't stand the car up, I'll try it again with the bottle pressure up to 1000, and probably try either adding another lb of air to the tires, or try going one click stiffer on all 4 shocks.
Where have you been running yours?
I don't know what would have happened if I was hitting it like alot of guys to with 250 out of the hole, christ it woudl ahve flipped over.
ONce I have the limiters on I'm gonna call Madman and talk to him about all this crap. I haven't scaled the car and I don't know where the corner weights are, I have access to a set and can do it that's not a big deal, but I'm suspecting the front to rear bias is a little off, with the bottle and battery in the trunk now, the back got another 75 lbs, and the nose lost about 145 by my guesstimate. That was all it took to make a car go from barely pulling a tire at all, to way too much.
Car's 3330 with my 280 lbs in it now, I still have the stock k member and a arms on it, and the stock fuel system in the car, I still haven't gotten around to putting the little 3 gal cell in the nose and ditching the stock tank, rear bumper support is still in too, so there's a solid 100 lbs left to take out, stock hood is still on too, but I think that's gonna stay, I don't want the headache of a lift off.
It would seem that lowering the tq arm position may be a good idea at this point, but I don't want to make too many changes at once. 1 lb of added air pressure (up to 14) and the limiters with the shocks at the same settings they were at when it stood up is what I want to start with, with the 100 jets in it which didn't stand the car up with, start with the bottle pressure at 950.
If that leaves good and doesn't stand the car up, I'll try it again with the bottle pressure up to 1000, and probably try either adding another lb of air to the tires, or try going one click stiffer on all 4 shocks.
Where have you been running yours?
06-05-2008, 05:14 AM
#27
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Devon the problem is that I'm not making huge power and it did that, with a little Nos plate and a 150 shot.
I don't know what would have happened if I was hitting it like alot of guys to with 250 out of the hole, christ it woudl ahve flipped over.
ONce I have the limiters on I'm gonna call Madman and talk to him about all this crap. I haven't scaled the car and I don't know where the corner weights are, I have access to a set and can do it that's not a big deal, but I'm suspecting the front to rear bias is a little off, with the bottle and battery in the trunk now, the back got another 75 lbs, and the nose lost about 145 by my guesstimate. That was all it took to make a car go from barely pulling a tire at all, to way too much.
Car's 3330 with my 280 lbs in it now, I still have the stock k member and a arms on it, and the stock fuel system in the car, I still haven't gotten around to putting the little 3 gal cell in the nose and ditching the stock tank, rear bumper support is still in too, so there's a solid 100 lbs left to take out, stock hood is still on too, but I think that's gonna stay, I don't want the headache of a lift off.
It would seem that lowering the tq arm position may be a good idea at this point, but I don't want to make too many changes at once. 1 lb of added air pressure (up to 14) and the limiters with the shocks at the same settings they were at when it stood up is what I want to start with, with the 100 jets in it which didn't stand the car up with, start with the bottle pressure at 950.
If that leaves good and doesn't stand the car up, I'll try it again with the bottle pressure up to 1000, and probably try either adding another lb of air to the tires, or try going one click stiffer on all 4 shocks.
Where have you been running yours?
I don't know what would have happened if I was hitting it like alot of guys to with 250 out of the hole, christ it woudl ahve flipped over.
ONce I have the limiters on I'm gonna call Madman and talk to him about all this crap. I haven't scaled the car and I don't know where the corner weights are, I have access to a set and can do it that's not a big deal, but I'm suspecting the front to rear bias is a little off, with the bottle and battery in the trunk now, the back got another 75 lbs, and the nose lost about 145 by my guesstimate. That was all it took to make a car go from barely pulling a tire at all, to way too much.
Car's 3330 with my 280 lbs in it now, I still have the stock k member and a arms on it, and the stock fuel system in the car, I still haven't gotten around to putting the little 3 gal cell in the nose and ditching the stock tank, rear bumper support is still in too, so there's a solid 100 lbs left to take out, stock hood is still on too, but I think that's gonna stay, I don't want the headache of a lift off.
It would seem that lowering the tq arm position may be a good idea at this point, but I don't want to make too many changes at once. 1 lb of added air pressure (up to 14) and the limiters with the shocks at the same settings they were at when it stood up is what I want to start with, with the 100 jets in it which didn't stand the car up with, start with the bottle pressure at 950.
If that leaves good and doesn't stand the car up, I'll try it again with the bottle pressure up to 1000, and probably try either adding another lb of air to the tires, or try going one click stiffer on all 4 shocks.
Where have you been running yours?
06-05-2008, 06:27 AM
#28
Sounds like you have the rear shocks a couple clicks stiffer then I do, have you ever softened it up, what did that do, every try them any stiffer?
I"m trying to get a list of stuff together that's gonna help the situation, I know some people run the shocks way up there on the stiff side, I remember readying that guess who had them up at 12 on the rear and 8 on the front... I dunno how a car can transfer any weight like that, but after seeing a video of that car doing a 200 foot wheelie, I guess anything can work.
I"m trying to get a list of stuff together that's gonna help the situation, I know some people run the shocks way up there on the stiff side, I remember readying that guess who had them up at 12 on the rear and 8 on the front... I dunno how a car can transfer any weight like that, but after seeing a video of that car doing a 200 foot wheelie, I guess anything can work.
06-05-2008, 09:12 AM
#32
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Midwest Chassis Full length 9" trans cross mounted. 1.6 but was spinning, havent been to the track with the new adjustments to the LCA's and TA.
I have a BMR full length w/M6 trans mount relocation if anyone is interested.
I have a BMR full length w/M6 trans mount relocation if anyone is interested.
06-05-2008, 02:32 PM
#34
You guys with Crossmember relocation, what ones are you using? I'm using a Yank crossmember and spohn TA and it vibrates like a bastard, I've adjusted the pinion angle everywhere from -3 to -1 and I still got it, -1 helps though.
I have a prothane Tranny mount, do you guys go with poly or stick with the stock rubber mount?
I have a prothane Tranny mount, do you guys go with poly or stick with the stock rubber mount?
06-05-2008, 04:01 PM
#35
06-05-2008, 04:57 PM
#37
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Car's 3330 with my 280 lbs in it now
And you have a stock k-member, a-arms and fuel system?!?!?!?!?! that has to be a typo....
My car was just scaled and it weighed 3351 with me in it (I weigh 180) and I have tubular everything up front, nasty fuel tank, aerospace brakes, entire underside of dash is gutted, manual master cylinder, etc, etc, etc,.. racing seats, blah blah blah...
if your car weighs 3330 with you in it I need a new car.... AND my car is a 1LE which are supposed to be light.... WTF!?!?!?
06-05-2008, 06:03 PM
#39
K member is stock, I haven't changed that yet. A arms are stock upper and lower. 3330 with me in it, and I weigh 280, just stepped on the scale this morning. Car was weigh'd with about 5 gallons of fuel, I put a pail of the fuel in before I loaded it up the night before, and it was about empty.
Car is an 01 ws6. Stock hood, stock rear hatch, door bars are still in it. Gutted behind the dash, 12 bolt, TH400, ls2 motor, stock k member and a arms, certified 10 pt cage, 2 kitkey seats no back seat, no hvac, no power steering, manual master, bogarts, bias ply front and rear tires, full size battery in the trunk, full nitrous bottle in the trunk, stock glass all around, lw carpet. Aerospace hub style drag brakes, aerospace rear brakes, reran all the lines ditched the entire stock braking system, burkhart nose support so that's all empty, rear bumper support is still in the car.
Dunno what to tell ya, I've tried very hard to make it as light as I could without hacking anything.
Car is an 01 ws6. Stock hood, stock rear hatch, door bars are still in it. Gutted behind the dash, 12 bolt, TH400, ls2 motor, stock k member and a arms, certified 10 pt cage, 2 kitkey seats no back seat, no hvac, no power steering, manual master, bogarts, bias ply front and rear tires, full size battery in the trunk, full nitrous bottle in the trunk, stock glass all around, lw carpet. Aerospace hub style drag brakes, aerospace rear brakes, reran all the lines ditched the entire stock braking system, burkhart nose support so that's all empty, rear bumper support is still in the car.
Dunno what to tell ya, I've tried very hard to make it as light as I could without hacking anything.
