oil coolers revisited (water to oil coolers)
09-01-2009, 06:03 PM
#1
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oil coolers revisited (water to oil coolers) got this recommendation from a friend who drives a turbo LS sand buggy and thought of researching a little about it. Main question is, do those things work?
My water cooling system is PERFECT, however no matter what im doing to the oil cooling system, oil temps do not seem to want to stick at the sweet spot.
I already got dual oil coolers sitting in front of the foglamps. My car has a few issues so I still didnt try shifting to a lower viscosity oil, which should help, but I am still researching for all other possibilities.
Question is, how can a water to oil cooler actually cool down the oil (given the water temp is cooler), isnt this already sort of happening in the block? water circulating and oil circulating where in my scenario oil temps increase INCREASING water temps along?
Can this help me? Oh yeah I found a few on Ron Davis' website.
My water cooling system is PERFECT, however no matter what im doing to the oil cooling system, oil temps do not seem to want to stick at the sweet spot.
I already got dual oil coolers sitting in front of the foglamps. My car has a few issues so I still didnt try shifting to a lower viscosity oil, which should help, but I am still researching for all other possibilities.
Question is, how can a water to oil cooler actually cool down the oil (given the water temp is cooler), isnt this already sort of happening in the block? water circulating and oil circulating where in my scenario oil temps increase INCREASING water temps along?
Can this help me? Oh yeah I found a few on Ron Davis' website.
09-01-2009, 07:19 PM
#2
Higher volume of water and a radiator with a LOT more surface area - yes, running a oil-to-water cooler on your setup might make a lot of sense. And yes, your cooler will also heat the oil after startup until the temp difference shifts to the oil being greater. This can actually help get your oil temps up where your motor is most happy more quickly.
What do you consider the 'sweet spot' for your oil temps? Modern motors generally like cooler water and hotter oil, up to a point.
Jim
What do you consider the 'sweet spot' for your oil temps? Modern motors generally like cooler water and hotter oil, up to a point.
Jim
09-01-2009, 08:14 PM
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I had that problem on my water+ oil Dewitts radiator, im sure it was some sort of a manufacturing defect or something and tom dewitts said he will replace it but I didnt take the offer because shipping it back and forth actually makes up almost the price of the radiator itself lol.
09-01-2009, 08:41 PM
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Higher volume of water and a radiator with a LOT more surface area - yes, running a oil-to-water cooler on your setup might make a lot of sense. And yes, your cooler will also heat the oil after startup until the temp difference shifts to the oil being greater. This can actually help get your oil temps up where your motor is most happy more quickly.
What do you consider the 'sweet spot' for your oil temps? Modern motors generally like cooler water and hotter oil, up to a point.
Jim
What do you consider the 'sweet spot' for your oil temps? Modern motors generally like cooler water and hotter oil, up to a point.
Jim
well you're right, but my point is, water and oil are already mixing in the engine where water and oil temps effect each other proportionally, so what difference is an oil to water cooler gonna make anyways, ex:
take this for an example, oil heat is already released passing throughout the engine block, and the cooler water circulaing the block absorbs the heat anyway, so why would an oil to water cooler be any different than the heat transferring in the engine block from one fluid to the other.
oil temp sweet spot for me is between 185 (coolest) and about 208 highest i want to see it at.
Now I already have dual oil coolers and im worrying this will furthermore drop oil pressure, but I got an idea in the works, let me get my car out in a few days and I might order this and give it a shot!
in the meanwhile keep the suggestions coming.
09-01-2009, 09:54 PM
#6
well you're right, but my point is, water and oil are already mixing in the engine where water and oil temps effect each other proportionally, so what difference is an oil to water cooler gonna make anyways, ex:
take this for an example, oil heat is already released passing throughout the engine block, and the cooler water circulaing the block absorbs the heat anyway, so why would an oil to water cooler be any different than the heat transferring in the engine block from one fluid to the other.
oil temp sweet spot for me is between 185 (coolest) and about 208 highest i want to see it at.
take this for an example, oil heat is already released passing throughout the engine block, and the cooler water circulaing the block absorbs the heat anyway, so why would an oil to water cooler be any different than the heat transferring in the engine block from one fluid to the other.
oil temp sweet spot for me is between 185 (coolest) and about 208 highest i want to see it at.
The coolant absorbs most of its heat from the water jackets around the cylinder bore, absorbing heat from bore through the walls of the cylinder. While it is lubricating, oil cools hot surfaces on the engine that water does never touches, including direct contact with all of the bearing surfaces, direct contact with the cylinder bores, piston skirts and the bottoms of the pistons, rocker arms, lifters, etc. The oil is doing a different job, and as a result, oil temp is probably not going to have an easily definable correlation with coolant temp. Also, don't forget that there's a lot more coolant than there is oil.
Also, I think your target oil operating temperature of 185-208 is pretty low. Why do you want it so low? Is that even within the target operating temp for oil itself? I know oil has an ideal temp range where its lubricational properties are at their peak.
185-208 seems more like an ideal coolant temp than an ideal oil temp. I think somewhere in the 220-240 range would be entirely safe. If you are using a synthetic or a blend, you can probably go higher than that.
Where is your oil temp now, and in what kind of weather??
-Dave
09-02-2009, 07:18 AM
#7
Please let the peeps that read this know what your ambient temps are and what you are seeing as far as oil temps during cruising, getting on it a little and how fast your temps recover back to cruising.
Without that information you will only get guesses.
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09-02-2009, 07:38 AM
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guys, its not that im afraid to have slightly higher oil temps its just that i have absolutely NO WAY to have cooler water than oil temps, no matter what i do and or try coolant WILL stay about 5 degrees hotter than oil and move up/down from there, so by saying i want cool oil temps, my main reason behind that is to get water temps in control.
I know it might not make sense to some, but trust me this IS the case, coolant temps will stay low for as long as I want, until oil heats, then they are both gone.
ex: if under cruise my oil temps hit 220, water temp will not be able to drop below say 228, and cause so many retarded timing related issues and sluggish responce. (as opposed to water temp staying at 177 for at lest the first 20minutes of engine operation until oil gets up to temp)
This is where I found out that oil temp is messing with everything else.
I know it might not make sense to some, but trust me this IS the case, coolant temps will stay low for as long as I want, until oil heats, then they are both gone.
ex: if under cruise my oil temps hit 220, water temp will not be able to drop below say 228, and cause so many retarded timing related issues and sluggish responce. (as opposed to water temp staying at 177 for at lest the first 20minutes of engine operation until oil gets up to temp)
This is where I found out that oil temp is messing with everything else.
09-02-2009, 08:15 AM
#9
If you're trying to lower your coolant temps by lowering your oil temps, the last thing I would do is install an oil-to-water oil cooler. This is going to put more stress on your cooling system. Don't expect that setup to work backwards and have your oil cool your coolant.
It sounds like you have some sort of fundamental problem with your cooling system, heat soak issues, or high under-hood temps. Oil temp is naturally going to want to come up to its own operating temperature (220-240) as everything under the hood heats up. This is normal. My experience on Corvettes (C4s) shows that oil temp comes up to temperature considerably slower than coolant temp... usually around 20 mins of normal driving, depending on how hard I am on the car. In the summer, normal is more around 240 +/-5 degrees.
I can see where you are coming from, but I think you are making a false assumption that your oil temps are causing your high coolant temps. I don't think this is the case.
1) Have you tested your rad to make sure you don't have blocked rows? This will create cool spots on the rad, and definitely hurt your cooling. It's more common in higher-mileage or older rads. Anything that can cause oxidation, dirt or sludge in your cooling system can cause this to happen.
2) Are your turbo parts ceramic coated or wrapped? Do you have turbo blankets on your turbos? Does any of your exhaust run close to your cooling system or you intake air piping and if so, did you or can you install in a thin heat shield?
3) Is your radiator getting the proper airflow? Do you have a FMIC, and is it reducing airflow to the rad? Do you have a good air dam installed under the car, to divert air up to the rad (VERY important)? Are the oil coolers interfering with anything? Might you have a defective thermostat?
4) Do you have the stock/OEM electric fans? Are they both turning on at the correct times (or eariler)? Have you considered adding a pusher fan in front of the rad?
It sounds like you have some sort of fundamental problem with your cooling system, heat soak issues, or high under-hood temps. Oil temp is naturally going to want to come up to its own operating temperature (220-240) as everything under the hood heats up. This is normal. My experience on Corvettes (C4s) shows that oil temp comes up to temperature considerably slower than coolant temp... usually around 20 mins of normal driving, depending on how hard I am on the car. In the summer, normal is more around 240 +/-5 degrees.
I can see where you are coming from, but I think you are making a false assumption that your oil temps are causing your high coolant temps. I don't think this is the case.
1) Have you tested your rad to make sure you don't have blocked rows? This will create cool spots on the rad, and definitely hurt your cooling. It's more common in higher-mileage or older rads. Anything that can cause oxidation, dirt or sludge in your cooling system can cause this to happen.
2) Are your turbo parts ceramic coated or wrapped? Do you have turbo blankets on your turbos? Does any of your exhaust run close to your cooling system or you intake air piping and if so, did you or can you install in a thin heat shield?
3) Is your radiator getting the proper airflow? Do you have a FMIC, and is it reducing airflow to the rad? Do you have a good air dam installed under the car, to divert air up to the rad (VERY important)? Are the oil coolers interfering with anything? Might you have a defective thermostat?
4) Do you have the stock/OEM electric fans? Are they both turning on at the correct times (or eariler)? Have you considered adding a pusher fan in front of the rad?
guys, its not that im afraid to have slightly higher oil temps its just that i have absolutely NO WAY to have cooler water than oil temps, no matter what i do and or try coolant WILL stay about 5 degrees hotter than oil and move up/down from there, so by saying i want cool oil temps, my main reason behind that is to get water temps in control.
I know it might not make sense to some, but trust me this IS the case, coolant temps will stay low for as long as I want, until oil heats, then they are both gone.
ex: if under cruise my oil temps hit 220, water temp will not be able to drop below say 228, and cause so many retarded timing related issues and sluggish responce. (as opposed to water temp staying at 177 for at lest the first 20minutes of engine operation until oil gets up to temp)
This is where I found out that oil temp is messing with everything else.
I know it might not make sense to some, but trust me this IS the case, coolant temps will stay low for as long as I want, until oil heats, then they are both gone.
ex: if under cruise my oil temps hit 220, water temp will not be able to drop below say 228, and cause so many retarded timing related issues and sluggish responce. (as opposed to water temp staying at 177 for at lest the first 20minutes of engine operation until oil gets up to temp)
This is where I found out that oil temp is messing with everything else.
09-02-2009, 08:40 AM
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If you're trying to lower your coolant temps by lowering your oil temps, the last thing I would do is install an oil-to-water oil cooler. This is going to put more stress on your cooling system. Don't expect that setup to work backwards and have your oil cool your coolant.
It sounds like you have some sort of fundamental problem with your cooling system, heat soak issues, or high under-hood temps. Oil temp is naturally going to want to come up to its own operating temperature (220-240) as everything under the hood heats up. This is normal. My experience on Corvettes (C4s) shows that oil temp comes up to temperature considerably slower than coolant temp... usually around 20 mins of normal driving, depending on how hard I am on the car. In the summer, normal is more around 240 +/-5 degrees.
I can see where you are coming from, but I think you are making a false assumption that your oil temps are causing your high coolant temps. I don't think this is the case.
Well it definitely is the case my car will run at 176degrees of water temp for the first 20minutes, as long as the oil temp is below that, and when oil temp gets to around 175 and starts increasing so does the water temp, and they keep on increasing at a steady rate together.
1) Have you tested your rad to make sure you don't have blocked rows? This will create cool spots on the rad, and definitely hurt your cooling. It's more common in higher-mileage or older rads. Anything that can cause oxidation, dirt or sludge in your cooling system can cause this to happen.
the radiator is a new dewitts unit, with fuel spal high speed fans, definitely nothing wrong with the rad, and not with the coolant/ air bubbles stuck in the system type of problem
2) Are your turbo parts ceramic coated or wrapped? Do you have turbo blankets on your turbos? Does any of your exhaust run close to your cooling system or you intake air piping and if so, did you or can you install in a thin heat shield?
turbo parts are ceramic coated indeed, except for the turbine housing which is not, and a small section of the downpipe which i had to recustomize, I can ceramic coat the downpipe, however the turbo inlet and outlet on one side runs probably an inch and a half away from the manifold and can in turn get very hot. Turbo has no blankets and I dont know if can fit any in there, but will try, and I might as well wrap a few pipes even though they are ceramic coated.
However nothing runs close to the cooler system, well you can say they are all trapped under the hood, and a louvered hood would be a great investment but that itself is $3500 shipped to Dubai
3) Is your radiator getting the proper airflow? Do you have a FMIC, and is it reducing airflow to the rad? Do you have a good air dam installed under the car, to divert air up to the rad (VERY important)? Are the oil coolers interfering with anything? Might you have a defective thermostat?
FMIC yes, its sitting at an angle to allow the radiator to breathe from the bottom, not as effective as a front breather, but definitely works, the car does have a air dam, however i cannot comment on how "good" it really is.
I just cutomized the oil coolers and trashed the front fog lamps, so dual oil coolers sit there, I think the oil cooler plates are very thin and would respond better to a thinner oil, and probably by oil cooler design is not the best, which is as follows:
engine >> -10 fitting to cooler 1 >>> -10 fitting to cooler 2 >>> -10 fitting back to engine
doesnt sound like the best set-up either. My first impression was while driving at night with 99 ambient, and some crappy 20w-50 non synthetic oil, oil temps did indeed take much longer to rise, but ended up rising to 212 which is when i was back at the shop and shut the car off.
Oil coolers dont interfer with anything except for one which has the intake FILTER sitting right behind it, so it would get heat-soaked from the oil cooler, I will move that turbo intake pipe around a little after I sort out a few things in the car
4) Do you have the stock/OEM electric fans? Are they both turning on at the correct times (or eariler)? Have you considered adding a pusher fan in front of the rad?
answered above.
And fans come on at full speed in the sub 180 range, also a pusher fan sounds like a good idea, but will REDUCE the radiators cooling capacity at speed vs idle so its a trade off i guess.
It sounds like you have some sort of fundamental problem with your cooling system, heat soak issues, or high under-hood temps. Oil temp is naturally going to want to come up to its own operating temperature (220-240) as everything under the hood heats up. This is normal. My experience on Corvettes (C4s) shows that oil temp comes up to temperature considerably slower than coolant temp... usually around 20 mins of normal driving, depending on how hard I am on the car. In the summer, normal is more around 240 +/-5 degrees.
I can see where you are coming from, but I think you are making a false assumption that your oil temps are causing your high coolant temps. I don't think this is the case.
Well it definitely is the case my car will run at 176degrees of water temp for the first 20minutes, as long as the oil temp is below that, and when oil temp gets to around 175 and starts increasing so does the water temp, and they keep on increasing at a steady rate together.
1) Have you tested your rad to make sure you don't have blocked rows? This will create cool spots on the rad, and definitely hurt your cooling. It's more common in higher-mileage or older rads. Anything that can cause oxidation, dirt or sludge in your cooling system can cause this to happen.
the radiator is a new dewitts unit, with fuel spal high speed fans, definitely nothing wrong with the rad, and not with the coolant/ air bubbles stuck in the system type of problem
2) Are your turbo parts ceramic coated or wrapped? Do you have turbo blankets on your turbos? Does any of your exhaust run close to your cooling system or you intake air piping and if so, did you or can you install in a thin heat shield?
turbo parts are ceramic coated indeed, except for the turbine housing which is not, and a small section of the downpipe which i had to recustomize, I can ceramic coat the downpipe, however the turbo inlet and outlet on one side runs probably an inch and a half away from the manifold and can in turn get very hot. Turbo has no blankets and I dont know if can fit any in there, but will try, and I might as well wrap a few pipes even though they are ceramic coated.
However nothing runs close to the cooler system, well you can say they are all trapped under the hood, and a louvered hood would be a great investment but that itself is $3500 shipped to Dubai
3) Is your radiator getting the proper airflow? Do you have a FMIC, and is it reducing airflow to the rad? Do you have a good air dam installed under the car, to divert air up to the rad (VERY important)? Are the oil coolers interfering with anything? Might you have a defective thermostat?
FMIC yes, its sitting at an angle to allow the radiator to breathe from the bottom, not as effective as a front breather, but definitely works, the car does have a air dam, however i cannot comment on how "good" it really is.
I just cutomized the oil coolers and trashed the front fog lamps, so dual oil coolers sit there, I think the oil cooler plates are very thin and would respond better to a thinner oil, and probably by oil cooler design is not the best, which is as follows:
engine >> -10 fitting to cooler 1 >>> -10 fitting to cooler 2 >>> -10 fitting back to engine
doesnt sound like the best set-up either. My first impression was while driving at night with 99 ambient, and some crappy 20w-50 non synthetic oil, oil temps did indeed take much longer to rise, but ended up rising to 212 which is when i was back at the shop and shut the car off.
Oil coolers dont interfer with anything except for one which has the intake FILTER sitting right behind it, so it would get heat-soaked from the oil cooler, I will move that turbo intake pipe around a little after I sort out a few things in the car
4) Do you have the stock/OEM electric fans? Are they both turning on at the correct times (or eariler)? Have you considered adding a pusher fan in front of the rad?
answered above.
And fans come on at full speed in the sub 180 range, also a pusher fan sounds like a good idea, but will REDUCE the radiators cooling capacity at speed vs idle so its a trade off i guess.
09-02-2009, 09:07 AM
#12
"Well it definitely is the case my car will run at 176degrees of water temp for the first 20minutes, as long as the oil temp is below that, and when oil temp gets to around 175 and starts increasing so does the water temp, and they keep on increasing at a steady rate together." - Your reasoning is 100% conclusory. Think of all the other stuff under the hood that is warming up after 20 mins of running your car. (Everything!!) Any one of them could be the problem!!
Looking at your responses, here are a couple of my thoughts:
Does your puller fans have a shroud like the OEM unit does?
I think the pusher fan would help more than it would hurt.
What ceramic coating did you use? Is it a heat resistant paint with ceramic flake (most ceramic coatings) or is it a heavy, thick substance applied to the tubing? If it's the paint type, wrapping the exhaust might go a long way.
What are your turbos so close to that you might not be able to get a blanket on it?
I wouldn't be too eager to spend big bucks on a louvered hood - I think that's more of a band-aid than a proper fix.
I think some pics of your setup would help. I really want to see how you have your intercooler mounted - maybe it interferes with air coming out of the engine compartment and/or diminishes the engine bay's "low pressure zone" effect on pulling air through the rad.
Looking at your responses, here are a couple of my thoughts:
Does your puller fans have a shroud like the OEM unit does?
I think the pusher fan would help more than it would hurt.
What ceramic coating did you use? Is it a heat resistant paint with ceramic flake (most ceramic coatings) or is it a heavy, thick substance applied to the tubing? If it's the paint type, wrapping the exhaust might go a long way.
What are your turbos so close to that you might not be able to get a blanket on it?
I wouldn't be too eager to spend big bucks on a louvered hood - I think that's more of a band-aid than a proper fix.
I think some pics of your setup would help. I really want to see how you have your intercooler mounted - maybe it interferes with air coming out of the engine compartment and/or diminishes the engine bay's "low pressure zone" effect on pulling air through the rad.
09-02-2009, 09:20 AM
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"Well it definitely is the case my car will run at 176degrees of water temp for the first 20minutes, as long as the oil temp is below that, and when oil temp gets to around 175 and starts increasing so does the water temp, and they keep on increasing at a steady rate together." - Your reasoning is 100% conclusory. Think of all the other stuff under the hood that is warming up after 20 mins of running your car. (Everything!!) Any one of them could be the problem!!
Looking at your responses, here are a couple of my thoughts:
Does your puller fans have a shroud like the OEM unit does?
I think the pusher fan would help more than it would hurt.
What ceramic coating did you use? Is it a heat resistant paint with ceramic flake (most ceramic coatings) or is it a heavy, thick substance applied to the tubing? If it's the paint type, wrapping the exhaust might go a long way.
What are your turbos so close to that you might not be able to get a blanket on it?
I wouldn't be too eager to spend big bucks on a louvered hood - I think that's more of a band-aid than a proper fix.
I think some pics of your setup would help. I really want to see how you have your intercooler mounted - maybe it interferes with air coming out of the engine compartment and/or diminishes the engine bay's "low pressure zone" effect on pulling air through the rad.
Looking at your responses, here are a couple of my thoughts:
Does your puller fans have a shroud like the OEM unit does?
I think the pusher fan would help more than it would hurt.
What ceramic coating did you use? Is it a heat resistant paint with ceramic flake (most ceramic coatings) or is it a heavy, thick substance applied to the tubing? If it's the paint type, wrapping the exhaust might go a long way.
What are your turbos so close to that you might not be able to get a blanket on it?
I wouldn't be too eager to spend big bucks on a louvered hood - I think that's more of a band-aid than a proper fix.
I think some pics of your setup would help. I really want to see how you have your intercooler mounted - maybe it interferes with air coming out of the engine compartment and/or diminishes the engine bay's "low pressure zone" effect on pulling air through the rad.
I hope a mobile camera would do just haha, coz im too lazy to charge my camera's battery lol
09-02-2009, 08:48 PM
#14
My water cooling system is PERFECT, however no matter what im doing to the oil cooling system, oil temps do not seem to want to stick at the sweet spot.
i have absolutely NO WAY to have cooler water than oil temps, no matter what i do and or try coolant WILL stay about 5 degrees hotter than oil and move up/down from there, so by saying i want cool oil temps, my main reason behind that is to get water temps in control.
engine >> -10 fitting to cooler 1 >>> -10 fitting to cooler 2 >>> -10 fitting back to engine
engine >> -10 fitting to Y-block (splitter 1-to-2 flows) then equal flow to cooler 1 and cooler 2 >>> Y-block (to rejoin 2-to-1 flows) >>> -10 fitting back to engine
The way you are doing it is only shedding maybe 10-12 more degrees instead of maybe 60-70.
How about considering having some louvers put in your hood? Way cheaper than $3500 and there are tools available to make them clean, or you can buy louver panels you can embed in the hood to vent heat.
Jim
09-02-2009, 09:47 PM
#15
FormerVendor
Having written the base file for your car I don't understand this. (unless much has been modified in iat and ect vs timing tables).
Yes it will pull a few degrees but not to the point where a twin turbo 427 should feel sluggish.
I've been stuck in slow moving traffic on a 90deg day for 45+ minutes with the a/c cranked in my car and coolant temps reached 235 deg. When it opened up and I started moving again the car was still responsive and fast as hell at those temps.
09-03-2009, 07:53 AM
#16
I think one thing we need to clear up and the vendors or very experienced GM peeps should answer.. LSX based cars were not FI from the start.
What is the acceptable range for coolant and oil temps that SHOULD not cause any performance and/or long term engine problems with regular coolant and oil changes?
What is the acceptable range for coolant and oil temps that SHOULD not cause any performance and/or long term engine problems with regular coolant and oil changes?
09-03-2009, 10:37 AM
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Having written the base file for your car I don't understand this. (unless much has been modified in iat and ect vs timing tables).
Yes it will pull a few degrees but not to the point where a twin turbo 427 should feel sluggish.
I've been stuck in slow moving traffic on a 90deg day for 45+ minutes with the a/c cranked in my car and coolant temps reached 235 deg. When it opened up and I started moving again the car was still responsive and fast as hell at those temps.
Yes it will pull a few degrees but not to the point where a twin turbo 427 should feel sluggish.
I've been stuck in slow moving traffic on a 90deg day for 45+ minutes with the a/c cranked in my car and coolant temps reached 235 deg. When it opened up and I started moving again the car was still responsive and fast as hell at those temps.
I fixed a bunch of things and figured out a lot on the way, the car still needs some work to be able to run as a daily driver in this heat and still be realiable, I hope I do that before I blow my motor apart from misuse lol
09-04-2009, 06:12 PM
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Ok I proved this for good. Thinner oil will DEFINITELY run cooler and recover quicker than thicker oil.
I switched from 20w-50 non synth. to 0w-40 synthetic and there was DEFINITELY a difference in how quick temperatures dropped, how much longer it took for the car to heat, all this and my oil cooler piping are still not the way they should be. With the oil temps under control so were the coolant temps which again proved my point.
Ill have to mention however that I added a can of some weird "oil cooling" product that claims up to 53 degrees cooler running oil, and the extra humidity last night (in Dubai) along with the car running a little lean all contributed but ill do some more testing after I fix the coolers, get the car tuned and run it some more.
I switched from 20w-50 non synth. to 0w-40 synthetic and there was DEFINITELY a difference in how quick temperatures dropped, how much longer it took for the car to heat, all this and my oil cooler piping are still not the way they should be. With the oil temps under control so were the coolant temps which again proved my point.
Ill have to mention however that I added a can of some weird "oil cooling" product that claims up to 53 degrees cooler running oil, and the extra humidity last night (in Dubai) along with the car running a little lean all contributed but ill do some more testing after I fix the coolers, get the car tuned and run it some more.
09-04-2009, 08:30 PM
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Also not to mention the fact that my oil coolers work better with thinner oil which can flow through them at a better pace than the thicker oil.
What I would end up doing is the follows:
For the time being I did not have any pressure issues with dual oil coolers and the Mobil1 0w-40 Super Synthetic, so ill stick to that oil grade. Ill redo the oil cooler lines to:
engine >> -12 line >> split into two -10's >> run one to each oil cooler >> run them back >> join dual -10's to form single -12 >> back to the engine.
This itself should result in a huge temperature reduction, along with the current combo should do for a good oil cooling system.
Not to mention taking the ugly baby blue paint off the coolers, which will probably reduce the thickness of the fins (painted will always be thicker), and in turn increase the airflow area between fins (but thats just a guess and not the main reason im stripping the paint off)
Ill make sure i come up with a new post on my findings after everything is done. Its worth mentioning it was not VERY hot outside yesterday, ambient 34-36 degrees celcius at night.