Front or rear mount turbo kit
09-20-2009, 10:13 PM
#3
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front mount will always be better.
the turbo is closer to the heat source = better spool time and more power
not a single factory turbo car or even a truck comes with the turbo mounted in the back, and for a good reason.
the turbo is closer to the heat source = better spool time and more power
not a single factory turbo car or even a truck comes with the turbo mounted in the back, and for a good reason.
09-20-2009, 11:18 PM
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I think if you have enough of your own fabrication skill a front mount can easily be done as cheap or cheaper than a rear mount... so a BIG question is, is the OP looking to BUY a kit, or Build one?....
09-20-2009, 11:31 PM
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I want to make as much HP. as I can. Looking to high 9's to low 10's. The car I bought has a Comp. Cam. It is suppose to be stroked 382. But I dont think it is, by what ppl has told me on here.
So I wont know that till I get the motor out and check for myself. But it really doesn't matter anyway. I will probably go with a bigger stroker kit that I can get by with and keep the compression down. I'm just wanting to get the best info. on stuff before I go buying anymore stuff.
I have wasted enough money without get good sound advice first. I went and bought a STS setup for the car. Found out that they are more trouble than they are worth. Just by info I got from others.
So I wont know that till I get the motor out and check for myself. But it really doesn't matter anyway. I will probably go with a bigger stroker kit that I can get by with and keep the compression down. I'm just wanting to get the best info. on stuff before I go buying anymore stuff.
I have wasted enough money without get good sound advice first. I went and bought a STS setup for the car. Found out that they are more trouble than they are worth. Just by info I got from others.
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09-20-2009, 11:40 PM
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I have a friend that can make the FM set up for around $600 with the intercooler, headers, crossover pipe and DP. I would just need the turbo, wastegate, BOV and a good fuel set up.
09-20-2009, 11:45 PM
#9
definitely ask questions and do A LOT of searching on parts and other people's experiences with parts. This will save you a lot of time and headache and keep you from back tracking. I bought a twin kit a while back and decided I wanted to go bigger and change the turbo mounting location so I sold that kit for a whopping loss and now I'm buying another twin setup that is considerably more than the first kit I bought. The difference is I went with the good stuff this time and did a lot of research. The info on the internet is a lot cheaper than good ole fashioned experience. You'll be thanking me for this. Study up first then buy the parts.
09-20-2009, 11:58 PM
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There are alot of variables in your situation..... for one, you need to know what your motor consists of before you can set a size of Turbo, WG Etc....
09-21-2009, 12:10 AM
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definitely ask questions and do A LOT of searching on parts and other people's experiences with parts. This will save you a lot of time and headache and keep you from back tracking.
The info on the internet is a lot cheaper than good ole fashioned experience. You'll be thanking me for this. Study up first then buy the parts.
The info on the internet is a lot cheaper than good ole fashioned experience. You'll be thanking me for this. Study up first then buy the parts.
also save money by buying used parts. for instance, whoever bought ta02zx10r's first TT kit prob got a smokin good deal. hate to use you as an example ta02xz10r but you said it and im sure you know it hahaha, lessons learned right?
09-21-2009, 12:25 AM
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[QUOTE=LS1Silverado05;12251211]Keep in mind no matter how cheap you can put a turbo together, the rest of the car need sto be up to a 9 or 10sec pass... This will take more time, parts and money obviously.....
Not sure what you mean when you said "the rest of the car need sto be up to a 9 or 10sec pass" Oh I see you ment Needs to be, lol. I seen the sto and thought what is that?
Not sure what you mean when you said "the rest of the car need sto be up to a 9 or 10sec pass" Oh I see you ment Needs to be, lol. I seen the sto and thought what is that?
Last edited by craig382ci; 09-21-2009 at 12:41 AM. Reason: didnt realize it was a typo
09-21-2009, 12:44 AM
#13
there's people making 500+ hp running high 12's. then there's people making 400 or less running 11's.
09-21-2009, 12:51 AM
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you said you want as much hp as possible. he's saying that's not all that's needed to run 9's and 10's. you need a trans/rear/tire/suspension setup that will hold it. otherwise you'll be breaking parts every time you go to the track or run times slower than people making half as much power.
there's people making 500+ hp running high 12's. then there's people making 400 or less running 11's.
there's people making 500+ hp running high 12's. then there's people making 400 or less running 11's.
EDIT: before I tore it down, my best in the 1/8 was:
8.037@92.08
R/T: .352 (damn clutch)
60': 2.021
330: 5.365 @ 70.34
on cam only STS GT67 with 7.5psi on a M6 with decent clutch and MT ET streets
09-21-2009, 11:34 AM
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you said you want as much hp as possible. he's saying that's not all that's needed to run 9's and 10's. you need a trans/rear/tire/suspension setup that will hold it. otherwise you'll be breaking parts every time you go to the track or run times slower than people making half as much power.
there's people making 500+ hp running high 12's. then there's people making 400 or less running 11's.
there's people making 500+ hp running high 12's. then there's people making 400 or less running 11's.
That is one reason about the rear mount turbo set up that I found that I didnt like. You can't put frame conectors on one side because of it. Or so I've been told!
09-21-2009, 02:56 PM
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Yes, I know about having the rest of the car to work and handle whats under the hood. But I thought I would get the advice on under the hood part first. Then work my way on back.
That is one reason about the rear mount turbo set up that I found that I didnt like. You can't put frame conectors on one side because of it. Or so I've been told!
That is one reason about the rear mount turbo set up that I found that I didnt like. You can't put frame conectors on one side because of it. Or so I've been told!
09-23-2009, 01:47 AM
#18
If you don't mind changing a lot of stuff on the car to make room then do a front mount they will make more power with a little quicker spool. I went rear mount since I have a low mileage mostly street car and did not want to hack it up to make someones kit fit. In my experience the front mount kit would have cost me about $2500 more than what I got into the rear kit. And BTW most people that run into problems with the STS kits did not follow the instructions when they installed them. The updated F-body kit has most of the bugs worked out. I got rid of their crappy PCV bypass system but other than that the kit works fine. This is just another stupid rear mounts guys opinion. Hope it helps.
09-23-2009, 07:53 AM
#19
^^ not to mention the other necessary up-grades for the STS to work to it's full potential. I believe a lot of people buy the STS kits expecting big numbers and performance because it’s advertised as a bolt on kit but up-grading some parts are needed such as fuel pump, bigger injectors, stock manifolds w/ heat wrap from front to back, turbo cam always helps, good tune and a few other things. i think a lot of STS anger comes from those who know nothing about the system or someone who has had a bad experience because they bolted it on and it didnt perform to what they though it should. yes it hangs low and the oiling isn't for the faint hearted but when built right with a built motor a rear-mount performs just as well as a front with little to no lag and quick spooling. people say it takes to long for the air to get to the front, i figure once you turn the key the system is pressurized. it all comes down to what you want, how much you’re willing to pay. read through the " real cost of forced induction" sticky. to me personally, i think the STS is great for more daily driving, no modifications under the hood, emissions friendly and weekend warrior. front mounts ok for DD'ing & more for racing.
Last edited by hawk584; 09-23-2009 at 03:36 PM.
09-23-2009, 09:51 AM
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^^ not to mention the other necessary up-grades for the STS to work to it's full potential. I believe a lot of people buy the STS kits expecting big numbers and performance because it’s advertised as a bolt on kit but up-grading some parts are needed such as fuel pump, bigger injectors, stock manifolds w/ heat wrap from front to back, turbo cam always helps, good tune and a few other things. i think a lot of STS anger comes from those who know nothing about the system or someone who has had a bad experience because they bolted it on and it didnt perform to what they though it should. yes it hangs low and the oiling isn't for the faint hearted but when built right with a built motor a rear-mount performs just as well as a front with little to no lag and quick spooling. people say it takes to long time for the air to get to the front, i figure once you turn the key the system is pressurized. it all comes down to what you want, how much you’re willing to pay. read through the " real cost of forced induction" sticky. to me personally, i think the STS is great for more daily driving, no modifications under the hood, emissions friendly and weekend warrior. front mounts ok for DD'ing & more for racing.