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Fireball Outlaw Drag Radial Rebuild Thread

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Old 06-08-2010, 07:25 AM
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Steel plate, steel pass through pipe, steel vbands. Then your alum pipes will couple via the vband clamp
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Old 06-08-2010, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 1fast bird
Sounds like it's soon time for paint. Can't wait to see this get done!
several more months I think until paint...still have lots to do
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Old 06-08-2010, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by White.Lightning
Steel plate, steel pass through pipe, steel vbands. Then your alum pipes will couple via the vband clamp
I think I've solved my dilema...it'll be all aluminum. To do what you said would be 125 more dollars to buy parts + steel rusts
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Old 06-08-2010, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
I think I've solved my dilema...it'll be all aluminum. To do what you said would be 125 more dollars to buy parts + steel rusts
dontcha jsut hate that! pisses me off to no end
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
Just a quick update:

didn't get alot done in the last few weeks, but...

Got the 1/8 plate and that fugger warped too. the way I was trying to make the hvac plate just isn't going to work (holesawing a 4" hole, passing a 4" aluminum pipe thru and welding both sides). it tends to pull the plate in funny ways when welding. I've tested some other ways with scrap and it seems that cutting a 3.5" hole, butt-welding a 4" pipe to both sides then cutting down the lip provides a warp-free setup, so I'm going to try for a third time doing that

Since the wing is done, I removed that from the car, going to get the parts coated. Will be getting the little pontiac bumper supports done in black chrome...should look cool

With the wing out of the way, I added a little more reinforcement to the the dual chute mount...also added some supports for the chute cables. just need to finish weld eveything then get that coated.
Have you considered welding a ring around the pass thru pipes and then riveting the ring to the HVAC plate. THis would prevent the plate from warping and still act as a firewall.
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Old 06-09-2010, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
I think I've solved my dilema...it'll be all aluminum. To do what you said would be 125 more dollars to buy parts + steel rusts
Get it chromed!!!!!!!!!!!!! BLING BLING Haha jk
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Old 06-09-2010, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by brobards
Have you considered welding a ring around the pass thru pipes and then riveting the ring to the HVAC plate. THis would prevent the plate from warping and still act as a firewall.
yeah...except cutting out a ring would suck pretty bad. almost something you need water-jetted.

OD would be 5-6 inches.

I rebuilt the plate last night...still slightly warped but came out good overall.

Last edited by Fireball; 06-09-2010 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 06-10-2010, 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Fireball
started on the hot side piping....got it all tacked up. Yes...it fits under the hood with several inches to spare


Nice...
hey is that 2 1/2 from the headers to dual 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 Merge pipe to the T6 turbo flange? looks real nice+clean, good job man.
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Old 06-10-2010, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by mike06tork
Nice...
hey is that 2 1/2 from the headers to dual 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 Merge pipe to the T6 turbo flange? looks real nice+clean, good job man.

yup...

Little bit of progress last night. Finish welded the parachute mount. that little 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" tubing is a PITA to weld since its so small and thin

working on sanding and painting the rollcage so I can go for 6.50 certification soon...once that monkey is off my back I'll finish the floors.
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Old 06-10-2010, 10:08 AM
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where can i buy a parachute? and do you know what kind of Cage i need to run low 8's how many points?
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Old 06-10-2010, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mike06tork
where can i buy a parachute? and do you know what kind of Cage i need to run low 8's how many points?
get a stroud prostock chute from madman....they are the best IMO.

You'll also need a chute mount. the wolfe setup is pretty nice...thats what I ran the last two years.

if you want to run 8.49 or faster you need a SFI 25.5 cage at a min (good to 7.50). If you are going that far, might as well do the 25.3 and be done with it (6.50 cert). Its not a matter of "points" at that time since it requires a funnycar cage, inner frame rails, etc.
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Old 06-10-2010, 07:24 PM
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Talked with the MADMAN...after looking over the cage, decided to add 2 more gussets to the roof, even though only one is required in the roof plane, since I have the roof "X" intersecting, it only made sense to do so




While I was at it, decided to add a gusset in the door plane for added safety


Finished up the parachute mount...
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Old 06-11-2010, 06:32 PM
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Got the first coat of paint done in the driver area, need to put a coat on in the rear area, then do a 2nd coat. Using Rustoleum HAMMERED paint...stuff is pretty bada$$

Driver side


Driver side roof


Passenger side


Passenger side roof


windshield gussets
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Old 06-11-2010, 10:14 PM
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looking good!
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Old 06-11-2010, 11:44 PM
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hey what kind of tig welder are you using... 25.5 cage has to be tig welded right?
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Old 06-12-2010, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by mike06tork
hey what kind of tig welder are you using... 25.5 cage has to be tig welded right?
Any Chromoly cage has to be tig welded. Has more to do with the type of metal used that how big
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Old 06-12-2010, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by mike06tork
hey what kind of tig welder are you using... 25.5 cage has to be tig welded right?
Miller Dynasty 200

25.5 allows mild steel, which could be migged, but I wouldn't ever consider that.
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Old 06-12-2010, 11:30 PM
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Is your 5" to 4" down pipes aluminum? if so what thickness type is needed not to warp from the heat?

Excellent build BTW
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Old 06-13-2010, 06:27 AM
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downpipes are 4" 14g.
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Old 06-13-2010, 08:52 PM
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the hot side is not a little close to the rad ?

probably wound not matter anyway, you just do one pass and let it cool
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