pdasterly

iTrader: (4)

I dont think the factory idler should be used(It's starting to dig into the back side of the belt after 5 mins of run time. Upgraded to Ad244 alternator also

Here some more pics

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

Wow dude, no wonder! Your alignment is WAY off on your pulley. However much you counterbored the J bracket, you shoulda added that much onto the 1.25" dimension that you had your standoff machined down.. Or just shoulda not messed with the bracket at all.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

yea that looks terrible!! lol Hopefully the ones hes making are machined down a little more so the pully sits back a little further.

pdasterly

iTrader: (4)

No way the factory idler will fit 8-rib belt, your measurement were way off period, the procharger idler should have been used. In the first pic the gold colored spacer is the washer that I added, everything fits tight, the idler is too small(it needs more lip). You cant see from pic but idler was aligned with the belt in place, I know cause I removed several (about 5) times to get correct length washer. Car sounds good on the other side of things, good write up but needs to be revised. Its not the standoff but the actual idler. I think Im gonna just get the procharger idler and that should solve problem. My old 6-rib idler is closer in size but the lips needs to be machined off. Idler needs to be about 1.5" wide, does anyone know if a vortech idler uses the same mounting as the factory idler or procharger idler? Also did some searching, This looks perfect

In other words, ***I'm not responsible if you F things up using the dimensions that worked for me!*** LOL!!!

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

The reason his looks wrong is because he counterbored his bracket. This moved the pulley further forward and out of alignment with the belt. Dont blame me for your machinists mistake man. I ran a stock idler on mine for 5k miles with ZERO issues. Here is mine with the stock idler pulley as posted already in this thread.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/12402970-post29.html

As you can see, it works as designed if you do it as designed.

pdasterly

iTrader: (4)

Like I said before the specs are correct, its the idler thats too small. simple solution(I need a wider idler)

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

Just FYI pdasterly, even when you get a wider idler, if you only had 1.25" off the end of your standoff machined down, I can guarantee you that you will have to have more of it machined down. Just a heads up... You need 1.25" past the edge of the back side of the bracket. Since some of your 1.25" is actually resting inside your bracket because you counterbored yours, however much your standoff is penetrating into the bracket, you will have to compensate for it by machining down your standoff further. You dont have 1.25 past the edge of the bracket, that is why your stock idler didnt line up, and thats why if you get a wider idler it wont fit. If you modify one part of the design, you must compensate for it everywhere.

pdasterly

iTrader: (4)

thanks chad, im going find something this weekend.

9t8z28

iTrader: (19)

That pulley from Vortech does look good. I would get it from somewhere else (other than Superchargersonline) though since the shipping is about $17 !!

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

I did a search on that Vortech pulley. Apparently, they are prone to failure VERY often. Check out this thread. Good news, appears they use a 2203 bearing, which has a 17mm ID (same as procharger pullies ID), and will fit your machined standoff.

If you get the vortech pulley, I'd recommend changing the bearings in it from the start. If you rev to 6500rpm, with a 7.65 crank pulley, you will be spinning that 2.5" idler 19,890rpm. So get a bearing (or bearings-not sure if it uses 1 or 2) that can handle the rpm.

Not that procharger is a TON better because I see procharger bearings fail too. I suspect it is because they incorrectly match their bearings as well. The only bearings I have taken out of a procharger idler were out of a used one, so I dont know if the bearings in there had already been replaced or not, but the bearings I took out were only rated at 14,000 rpm. Since the procharger bearings are 6003's, when the procharger bearings fail, I'd replace them with these.

One thing you gotta watch out for on bearings is the brand. Sure, you can get cheap bearings that have a good rpm spec for a couple dollars, but cheaply made bearings are no better than a quality bearing thats not rated correctly for the job. Infact, the cheapo bearings would probably be worse.

GEAUX FAST

chad, thanks for sharing all of this info, i love this thread.

pdasterly

iTrader: (4)

I search and found same thing, that pulley dosent last very long, vortech lists differant pullies on their website. Im really leaning towards taking my 6-rib idler and having the lips machined off if that dosent pan out I searched through dayco catalog part number (89165 ) is what I found, can some double check catalog
Just weighing my options, Damn it sucks to be cheap

Again Chevy chads specs are good, I just feel the factory idler is not wide enough. If you have a procharger then this mod is a must unless you have aster's or sdce tensioner. I wanted to do asters but the price didnt sit well with me

Aster

iTrader: (9)

Pdasterly: You can not change the distance between the block and the bracket without causing problems. By making the bolt hole larger allowing the stand off to slip into the bracket the stand off is effectively too short, an entirely new stand off made longer by the same amount the shaft now enters the bracket would be required to keep the bracket alignment correct. You basically potentially lost .4" if you did not increase the counter bore depth on the reverse side and are sliding the the standoff all the way through the hole. That is a significant change in alignment and will cause belt problems, and weakens the other mounting points as the geometry for their mating surfaces are way off.

This angling of the bracket is also causing the belt to ride harder on the sharper edge of that pulley than the side closest the bracket with the rolled edge.

pdasterly

iTrader: (4)

Just got from under car with tape measure, this I what I have for Widths

Belt = 1.25 or 31mm
Idler = 14/16 or 7/8 or 22mm

pdasterly

iTrader: (4)

Ok, look at the pic, can you see the gold colored spacer, my stands are even, Its the idler that not wide enough for me btw how wide is your idler?

Motovative

iTrader: (19)

pdasterly,

You counterbored the bracket, so you need to make up for that on the bracket side of the standoff, not the motor side. Notice that the thickness of the gold washer you have on the motor side is equal to the overhang of the belt on the pulley? By counterboring the bracket, you effectively shifted everything over towards the bracket. If you removed the thick gold washer on the motor side, and put washers back in the bored out part of the bracket, it would all shift back into place.

flame

iTrader: (13)

That bearing ID is wrong for your standoff. You need the 89007 which is 31 mm wide as you say your belt measures. Pretty sure the 89005 is what SDCE uses on their bracket.

pdasterly

iTrader: (4)

Thanks headed to napa parts now, I think a silverado 6.6 turbo diesel will work(specs are on) from dayco catalog

Aster

iTrader: (9)

My idlers are 1.25" wide. Motovative is correct in that the spacing does matter on which side of the stand off it is on. Since the pulley is not as wide as the belt it is important to have it riding as close to center of the belt for you, yours is not. I had the luxury of making the pulleys wider than the 8 rib belt by a little bit to make sure this would not be an issue.

Also in that picture you showed it appears that the pulley is not sitting truly perpendicular, but instead is riding at an angle. It also appears the bracket is not truely square when compared to the stand off angle in the image. It might just be a trick of the angle of the photo, but it does not look right.

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

The 89165 has these specs:

ID: 10.15mm (this is smaller than the 17mm this mod was made for)
OD: 76mm (this is 2.99" same as the stock fbody idler)
Width: 30mm (this is approximately the same width as the stock fbody idler)

You swear the stock fbody idler wont work for you, then you turn around and spec out a pulley thats almost identical in OD and width, but has a worse ID. I dont get it man..