New build/combo..F1/370 Dyno Vids/results MORE BOOST!
10-17-2010, 06:29 PM
#43
No problems with flexing that I have seen, that is why I used the extra bolt hole on the blower which ties in the top and bottom parts of the bracket. I don't know much on welding on the block, I don't have any experience with that. I do see what you are talking about at the red dot, your block is missing a mount there than mine has.
10-17-2010, 07:35 PM
#44
Your on a LS1/LS6 383 it looks like from the pics. The iron block doesn't have 2 of the mounting points. 1 of them is an easy drill and tap but the other doesnt even have a spot. I'm worried about not having the 3 points of contact...hell I even want to figure out a bracket for a 4th lol. I'm going to be spinning the blower really hard so I dont wanna chance it.
10-17-2010, 08:02 PM
#45
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You definitely need atleast 3 mounting points. Could you possibly weld a nut thats the same thread and pitch as your threaded rod? You could use a steel nut and weld it directly to the steel block. thread your rod in, cut to length and then throw a nut on the outter side.
As for your 4th point at your idler I wouldnt be drilling anywhere around there. I'd be scared poopless about drilling into a coolant passage. If I were you I'd use 2 nuts, grind them down to contour the block where they will sit square with your threaded rod. Thread the rod in the nut and tack them. Once tacked, pull it all off and tig weld them on.
Good luck Chris, loving the beard lol.
As for your 4th point at your idler I wouldnt be drilling anywhere around there. I'd be scared poopless about drilling into a coolant passage. If I were you I'd use 2 nuts, grind them down to contour the block where they will sit square with your threaded rod. Thread the rod in the nut and tack them. Once tacked, pull it all off and tig weld them on.
Good luck Chris, loving the beard lol.
10-17-2010, 11:58 PM
#47
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No prob bro, if you need any help let me know. I would recommend you make a 4th point, it'd be stupid not to since it will be almost exactly like what you have to do to the 3rd point. Try to use a steel sleeve that you can tap the thread of the rod, last case scenario use a nut. With a sleeve you you can cut it to the length you need. It also may be a bit trickey to weld to iron, but it shouldnt be a problem. Just grind down the block to bare metal, throw the nuts on there, line them up and weld.
10-18-2010, 06:42 PM
#49
So my buddy and I were talking and came up with a new plan. We took a sketch of the recessed area and I think were going to cut a plate out and weld it in. It would fill the whole area and I can weld a nut on 2 points. 1 lower for just the alt. bolt and 1 upper by the water pump which is the upper J-bracket mounting point. I think this will be a better idea then trying to do the dowel. I'll put some sketches up and see what everybody thinks. No way will I drill into the water jacket lol
10-23-2010, 02:10 AM
#51
Bump!...wheres helicoil or 98Z28Cobrakiller or somebody with block experiance? lol...I want to get this plate cut but I need to know if its worth it. I dont want to ruin the block before I even get this **** in the car. I also dont want to pull a "its ok for now" and have to fix it later. I'd rather do it now while its out of the car.
10-27-2010, 07:46 AM
#52
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Dis you find any solution ? I'm kind in the same boat. Free bump + subscribe.
Here something I found;
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...t-bracket.html
Look at Epp site on Bob camaro. They put some kind of brace whit heim joint when they did the cog setup.
Here something I found;
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...t-bracket.html
Look at Epp site on Bob camaro. They put some kind of brace whit heim joint when they did the cog setup.
10-27-2010, 07:22 PM
#53
The cog bracket is a little different and yes I did come to a semi-conclusion lol. I spoke to a welder at work (30+ years) and needless to say hes an expert. He said theres a special rod to use and the block needs to be very clean. He also said to pre-heat the block to keep the expansion to a minimal when the welding starts. I just need to convince him to do the work for some $$$. I'm going to have the machinists cut a piece of plate steel probably 1/8th" thick and weld it in. Hopefully it works. I then want to take a deep nut and weld it onto the plate to thread both the top alt. only bolt and the top j-bracket. That'll give me 4 places of contact and should stop most of the bracket flex....2 just wasn't gonna cut it and if I can go 4 over 3 why not?
10-31-2010, 03:11 PM
#54
Bump. Well looks like I have some small changes to my build. I'm 90% certain that I'm going to be trading a buddy my D1SC for his standard F1. It flows 125 more CFM and has a max rpm of 70K over 62K. I'm also going to be running a fast 92 w/Nick williams 90mm TB. I wonder what she'll do on power and track times now!
10-31-2010, 03:28 PM
#56
Yea I know lol. I usually use dexcool but I sent a buddy to grab me coolant while I was working on the car and he grabbed me green **** (user on here at that!) So I decided to just run it until I pulled the motor. Thanks for the notice though!
11-07-2010, 04:11 PM
#60
Bump! SEMA was awesome!...but now back to the plan. Going to take my motor to work tomorrow and see what and when the welder can do with it. Still need to finish up some trans **** as well. I'll post up some pics of the cooler cars when I get a chance.