ROUND 4, LQ4 TC78 Front Mount GTO
05-28-2011, 05:49 PM
#181
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Indy
Posts: 4,220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So, had a pretty eventful day today, im a little drunk tonight, so if my grammar or spelling is off, get over it
anyhow, went to a local cookout today, car was only dialed in on about 5lbs of boost, as i havent even messed with the greddy at this point.
I was following a good friend with an 05 H/C/I motor that makes 500whp on the motor, when we got on the interstate we both got all over it, i was running him down hard. SO i was pretty happy with that.
anyway, on the way home, dialed her back into the 9-10lb region and began to mess with the over boost and gain settings. Very cool boost controller! I love this thing.
anyway, i have to rebuild the passenger side of my turbo kit, the vband pulled during welding and WILL NOT seal back up, i made a gasket for it, and it still wont seal up. Im just going to cut out 1" of the piping and put a 3 bolt truck manifold flange setup in there. I like the idea better simply because of the gaskets being readily available and the the strength of the them over the Vband setups.
The leak that is coming from that Vband is horrendous and i know its destroying my spool time and the way the car runs.
anyhow, just thought i do a quick update, it pulls like a freaking freight train on 9lbs and will spool faster once i fix that passenger side pipe!
Oh, the good old piece of crap 4l60 is shuttering like a bitch above 4000rpm in 3rd gear at WOT.
Time to figure out the purpose of this car and make a choice. ARG!
oh, also weighed the car yesterday, 3960lb, half tank of E85 with my 228lb *** in the driver seat
anyhow, went to a local cookout today, car was only dialed in on about 5lbs of boost, as i havent even messed with the greddy at this point.
I was following a good friend with an 05 H/C/I motor that makes 500whp on the motor, when we got on the interstate we both got all over it, i was running him down hard. SO i was pretty happy with that.
anyway, on the way home, dialed her back into the 9-10lb region and began to mess with the over boost and gain settings. Very cool boost controller! I love this thing.
anyway, i have to rebuild the passenger side of my turbo kit, the vband pulled during welding and WILL NOT seal back up, i made a gasket for it, and it still wont seal up. Im just going to cut out 1" of the piping and put a 3 bolt truck manifold flange setup in there. I like the idea better simply because of the gaskets being readily available and the the strength of the them over the Vband setups.
The leak that is coming from that Vband is horrendous and i know its destroying my spool time and the way the car runs.
anyhow, just thought i do a quick update, it pulls like a freaking freight train on 9lbs and will spool faster once i fix that passenger side pipe!
Oh, the good old piece of crap 4l60 is shuttering like a bitch above 4000rpm in 3rd gear at WOT.
Time to figure out the purpose of this car and make a choice. ARG!
oh, also weighed the car yesterday, 3960lb, half tank of E85 with my 228lb *** in the driver seat
05-28-2011, 06:53 PM
#182
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: houston TX
Posts: 1,497
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
you may be able to have the vband machined flat for a few bucks at a local machine shop, try that before chop cut rebuild. I wanna know about the blanket too, where did you get it and how does it fit?
4l80e is a beast with room to grow, getting the hang of it in the twisties shouldnt be too too bad. thats my plan, thats also a factor in why I always run a medium stall thats super tight, gives a rock hard launch and manages corners like a pro. plus a Tbrake option only uncool is its not quite bangin gears like a t56
4l80e is a beast with room to grow, getting the hang of it in the twisties shouldnt be too too bad. thats my plan, thats also a factor in why I always run a medium stall thats super tight, gives a rock hard launch and manages corners like a pro. plus a Tbrake option
only uncool is its not quite bangin gears like a t56 
05-29-2011, 02:39 AM
#187
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 608
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I haven't had much luck with bolt up flanges, had to have custom stainless gaskets made, the std type would just blow out.
My next manifold will be "V" band with a Flexi joint to aid alighnment.
You think 9 psi is fun, wait till you throw 17-18 psi at it.........
My next manifold will be "V" band with a Flexi joint to aid alighnment.
You think 9 psi is fun, wait till you throw 17-18 psi at it.........
06-02-2011, 09:12 AM
#188
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Indy
Posts: 4,220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow guys! LOL, i havent checked it since that night i said i was drunk, forgot all about posting! LMAO!!
Anyhow, i guess i could try to have the flange machined flat either way, its off the car on the floor already so it might not be a bad idea!
I am also picking up a 4l80e tomorrow to start building on that! Ive located all the hard parts that the builders like to use, so ill piece it together over the next year and have it built bullet proof.
Oh, back to the Vband thing, i used a flex joint in the crossover from the driver side to the passenger side as you can see in the pics. However, somehow, during all the BS and whatever, the vband wont actually line up correctly now either. Very odd situation.
Because the angle at which it sits in comparison to the driver side, it has a weird pivot angle when moving it around trying to line it up. Anyway. The flanges will be here tomrrow or so and ill likely just forget about the Vband if we cant get it right.
Its irritating, the driver side is perfect, doesnt budge and doest leak, i hate to take it back off, my luck that side will leak next, LMAO!
Oh, another thing, I would think that machining the flange flat would hurt it, I say this because, both flanges together are a certain thickness, and it looks like they almost need to stay that thick to achieve proper clamping force from the band clamp its self. IDK. Maybe im a jack ***.
EDIT: I wonder if i just bought another 2.5" Vband and redid the bottom portion with it clamped together. except with it off the car yesterday, i noticed both pieces were warped, and the one is welded directly to the manifold. Might have to just weld another flange to that.
Although, i have been considering some Phil advice and redoing my setup with 2" pipes rather then these 2.5" pipes.
Anyhow, i guess i could try to have the flange machined flat either way, its off the car on the floor already so it might not be a bad idea!
I am also picking up a 4l80e tomorrow to start building on that! Ive located all the hard parts that the builders like to use, so ill piece it together over the next year and have it built bullet proof.
Oh, back to the Vband thing, i used a flex joint in the crossover from the driver side to the passenger side as you can see in the pics. However, somehow, during all the BS and whatever, the vband wont actually line up correctly now either. Very odd situation.
Because the angle at which it sits in comparison to the driver side, it has a weird pivot angle when moving it around trying to line it up. Anyway. The flanges will be here tomrrow or so and ill likely just forget about the Vband if we cant get it right.
Its irritating, the driver side is perfect, doesnt budge and doest leak, i hate to take it back off, my luck that side will leak next, LMAO!
Oh, another thing, I would think that machining the flange flat would hurt it, I say this because, both flanges together are a certain thickness, and it looks like they almost need to stay that thick to achieve proper clamping force from the band clamp its self. IDK. Maybe im a jack ***.
EDIT: I wonder if i just bought another 2.5" Vband and redid the bottom portion with it clamped together. except with it off the car yesterday, i noticed both pieces were warped, and the one is welded directly to the manifold. Might have to just weld another flange to that.
Although, i have been considering some Phil advice and redoing my setup with 2" pipes rather then these 2.5" pipes.
Last edited by JAX04; 06-02-2011 at 09:21 AM.
06-02-2011, 06:44 PM
#191
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Indy
Posts: 4,220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Everything ive read says no need to go to 2.5" until im in the 1200hp range, or somewhere around their.
This car will NEVER be 1000+whp unless its gets some serious work done.
Shoot, sorry bud, i get behind alot, lol.
anyway, im not sure, i got it off of ebay, it seems to do a really good job. I do wish it was a touch thicker, but it does a pretty good job. Ill take a few pics of it and post them up since the car is torn down.
This car will NEVER be 1000+whp unless its gets some serious work done.
anyway, im not sure, i got it off of ebay, it seems to do a really good job. I do wish it was a touch thicker, but it does a pretty good job. Ill take a few pics of it and post them up since the car is torn down.
06-03-2011, 08:00 AM
#195
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Indy
Posts: 4,220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lolz, im in indiana, eastern time zone, it was 730 my time
I can grab a link, its been holding up well, although it hasnt gotten many miles, as im alway messing with something, the car spends more hours with the hood up then down, lol
I can grab a link, its been holding up well, although it hasnt gotten many miles, as im alway messing with something, the car spends more hours with the hood up then down, lol
06-03-2011, 11:27 AM
#196
11 Second Club
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Diego/ from the 316
Posts: 784
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lol... I know that feeling. My hood has been up since march. Actually using the empty engine bay as storage space right now...
So did you decide to change the hot side? Or still thinking... I think I'm goin to split the defference and go 2.25. But I'm hoping to be at the limits of whatever turbo I run.
As always man. Keep up the good work
So did you decide to change the hot side? Or still thinking... I think I'm goin to split the defference and go 2.25. But I'm hoping to be at the limits of whatever turbo I run.
As always man. Keep up the good work
06-03-2011, 01:14 PM
#197
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Indy
Posts: 4,220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
im not gonna change it, yet anyhow, if i cant get this to work, ill weld the damn thing solid and forget about it until i need to get to the heads again! LMAO!
Honestly though, if i do change it, its going to be down for awhile, as im going to really plan this one out and make it fit better and make it easier to work on the car with the turbo in their.
But, for now, as of this minute the plan is too either flange it, or weld it solid until this winter or something breaks and start from scratch.
Honestly though, if i do change it, its going to be down for awhile, as im going to really plan this one out and make it fit better and make it easier to work on the car with the turbo in their.
But, for now, as of this minute the plan is too either flange it, or weld it solid until this winter or something breaks and start from scratch.
06-05-2011, 08:54 AM
#198
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Indy
Posts: 4,220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well, the flanges were piece of ****, so, i decided to just nip this problem is the *** and be done with it.
Instead of screwing with flanges, or vbands, or whatever, i disassembled everything, removed it from the car, and sanded it all down, and cleaned up all the surfaces,
I then proceeded to put it all back on the car, bolt of the turbo and down pipe so that they were in their respective positions, and grabbed the trusty Clarke 135 and welded the two vband flanges together! No pics of this, sorry, i was not even thinking about pictures.
Anyhow, before, i had to removed everything to get the passenger manifold off anyhow, now i have to remove everything and the spark plugs, lol. But its really not all that bad, i tested, put it all back on and took it all back off, not a big deal at all.
Piece of mind, no more leaks, its very quiet under the hood now, the turbo sounds even more incredible then before. and spools like it should!
SO, before i put it all back in, i decided to do some house cleaning, removed the Cruise control box, (ordered lokar cable to delete the rest) painted down pipe and wastegate dump, etc. lots of house cleaning, im not afraid to pop my hood anymore, and actually think it looks pretty good. their is only 3 things left i want to do.
1. remove and clean up the junction box,
2. make longer fuel lines to move them down and over for the regulator so they arent jumping across the engine bay.
3. move the coolant fill cap about 4" to the left with and offset.
anyway, here are a couple pics of how it sits and im actually very happy with the setup now.
Instead of screwing with flanges, or vbands, or whatever, i disassembled everything, removed it from the car, and sanded it all down, and cleaned up all the surfaces,
I then proceeded to put it all back on the car, bolt of the turbo and down pipe so that they were in their respective positions, and grabbed the trusty Clarke 135 and welded the two vband flanges together! No pics of this, sorry, i was not even thinking about pictures.
Anyhow, before, i had to removed everything to get the passenger manifold off anyhow, now i have to remove everything and the spark plugs, lol. But its really not all that bad, i tested, put it all back on and took it all back off, not a big deal at all.
Piece of mind, no more leaks, its very quiet under the hood now, the turbo sounds even more incredible then before. and spools like it should!
SO, before i put it all back in, i decided to do some house cleaning, removed the Cruise control box, (ordered lokar cable to delete the rest) painted down pipe and wastegate dump, etc. lots of house cleaning, im not afraid to pop my hood anymore, and actually think it looks pretty good. their is only 3 things left i want to do.
1. remove and clean up the junction box,
2. make longer fuel lines to move them down and over for the regulator so they arent jumping across the engine bay.
3. move the coolant fill cap about 4" to the left with and offset.
anyway, here are a couple pics of how it sits and im actually very happy with the setup now.
