kikass_z28

Anybody running this?
I know the stock crank has been proven strong but how does it hold up to the extra tension from the blower? What power level are you at? What tensioner setup are you using?

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

Im running the stock crank with my F1 (just an F1, not an F1A) with no problems from it. My MAF tune I made about 700rwhp, but I'm hoping for more than that when my SD tune gets done. Which should be within the next couple weeks. GSS has it now and is working on that. I am running the stock procharger tensioner with an extra idler pulley.

LS1RedZ

iTrader: (19)

Seems to me that if you switch to a bracket like Asters it takes alot of stress off the crank snout (thinking out loud haha). You'll be alright running a stock crank with the F1. Im at about 16psi and making almost 800 to the wheels with my D1SC.

93formto98T/A

iTrader: (28)

With my last motor my F2 broke the crank pin -that was an eagle 4" crank. This time I went with a lunati pro series with double keyway. That should hold it. At lower power levels you should be ok with a stocker but it's much easier to put a good crank in while you have the motor apart vs paying to have it pulled, rebuilt, new crank, etc...

kikass_z28

Thanks for the info this is exactly what I wanted to hear!
How many miles do you have on this setup and what do you limit your rpm to? I think keeping the rpms at a reasonable level will help hold it together as well

kikass_z28

I was thinking the same thing about a quality tensioner. Those are very nice numbers out of a D1


I dont want to spend a ton on my first shortblock in case I mess it up. I plan on running a 5.3 or 6.0 with just some forged rods and pistons until I man up to something like a 402 or 408 I dont plan on maxing this blower out with this first setup, i'm going to be limited by fuel anyways until I can afford more than a dual 255 setup with stock rails

SilverSS

iTrader: (30)

Stock crank will be fine as long as it's keyed or pinned VERY well. I had only two ATI pins on the crank and they dug pretty deep into the crank hub key way leaving a big notch. This was after I switched from a D1SC to the F1A. Crank snout was unblemished though.

ChevyChad

iTrader: (50)

I did have a keyway machined in my crank too, I should have mentioned that.. But I have about 10k miles on this crank. Max I rev to is 6500rpm.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Having 2 BOV's will help take load off the crank. Never broke a crank snout running F1's on these LS cars. Did break a few Ford cranks though.

kikass_z28

Looks like running a keyway is the way to go vs pinning. Thanks guys

LS1RedZ

iTrader: (19)

Checkout AES' forged 5.3 shortblock. Has some good stuff in it and it has a pretty good price.

kikass_z28

That aes 5.3 is what made me start this thread lol. Looks like a really good price.

AES Racing

iTrader: (6)

I would recommend our 390 setup for F1A, forged crankshaft with a keyway, steel top ring standard, ARP main studs.

5.3 would be a bit on the small side

kikass_z28

Dont get me wrong I would love to order your 390 but the 5.3 would be much easier on the wallet.

JimS

$1k more now or ?????? later.

kikass_z28

Looks like other people are running just fine with the stock crank.

JimS

The F1 or F1a is what I'm looking at for my next engine but not on the 5.3 platform. I'll start with the LQ9 6.0 block and then add c.i. to that. Maybe 390, or 402 or 408 or maybe 427. I think I can reach my goal of 1000 hp using one of the F series Prochargers with a LQ9 foundation.

JimS

Check out this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ast-crank.html

kikass_z28

I saw that thread a while back but it seemed like most were running turbos. Great thread though!