370, Garrett GT55-94, truck manifolds build thread. ***UPDATE 12-10***
#201
Mine did the exact same thing, would crank over forever and it would die, had to throttle it etc. After finally getting it started i held the throttle for maybe 20 seconds and it began idling high. It did calm down, so try that if not do some logging and go from there
#202
Im not sure if i can even get it to idle. I have to throttle the **** out of it to keep it running, and badly at that. I have raw fuel coming from the downpipe. Im gonna maybe try a few more little adjustments, but ive started it probably 10 times and only once i got it to run for 1 minute, every other time is about 15 seconds. Also usually have to crank it for 10 seconds to get it to start.
So what you experts think i should do?????
So what you experts think i should do?????
In the off chance that you are having the same problem, make sure that your oil isn't contaminated with fuel.
#203
Ya, i wouldnt continue to run the car in this condition cause they plugs are definately fouled and ur gonna wash the walls with that much fuel, are u sure the mail order tune has a correct operating system for wutever map sensor your running, cause i did a 2bar sd on a car and bought the map sensor from napa which was supposed the be the one from a supercharged cobalt and it turned out it was a stock 1bar sensor, and identicle issue to urs, car would not idle and i already tuned part throttle b4 i did the 2bar upgrade, whats the part # on ur map sensor, the correct delco# is 12615136, there are some other part #'s floating around out there too, but im positive mine is righ
#205
Ya, i wouldnt continue to run the car in this condition cause they plugs are definately fouled and ur gonna wash the walls with that much fuel, are u sure the mail order tune has a correct operating system for wutever map sensor your running, cause i did a 2bar sd on a car and bought the map sensor from napa which was supposed the be the one from a supercharged cobalt and it turned out it was a stock 1bar sensor, and identicle issue to urs, car would not idle and i already tuned part throttle b4 i did the 2bar upgrade, whats the part # on ur map sensor, the correct delco# is 12615136, there are some other part #'s floating around out there too, but im positive mine is righ
#206
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (31)
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 1
From: Thomasboro, ILL
i dont have a part# on my 3 bar. but it looks identical to a gm 3 bar if that helps any. I was told that because my pcm is not a 411 it will not accept a 3bar tune. This sound right? I am in the process of ordering a new pcm and trying that out.
#207
not sure bout the pcm #'s but i would hope ur mai order tuner would tell u if the pcm has a 3bar or a 2 bar tune...te part number i supplied is for a 2bar, i happen to be the ugly duckiling and have a 98 so no 3 bar for me lol....I thought all 99 and up pcms had the ability to go 3 bar
#208
what year pcm do you have?
#209
Is the pcm the origional one out of the car? What year is the car? Is this a mail order tune? What injectors? Do you have a scanner? If not, you can measure the voltage at the map sensor to see what sensor it is.
#211
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (31)
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 1
From: Thomasboro, ILL
If i dont have proper tuning software, just a scanmaster, and OBD2 scan tool. is their a way to check and see if the map is working correctly on the 3bar with those?
#212
So then ur base pressure should be set to 58psi with the vacuum line disconected frkom the regulator, and u can watch ur map reading with the scan master and compare it with a boost vacuum gauge readout, or ohm the sensor out and hook a mighty vac to it and check ur readouts, or ask ur tuner to verify ur operating system and then verify which sensor u have, and if u haven't already, u should always follow standard procedure and check spark, fuel and vacuum leaks or air restrictions
#213
Why don't you have an 0411 pcm? I thought that was a standard 99-02 pcm. Am I missing something?
#214
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (31)
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 1
From: Thomasboro, ILL
Got the coolant system done with the Kurt Urban steam system which is badass by the way. Just waiting on my new computer to get here, and hopefully it runs better than the previous time.
I did get my hood on tonight, it fits like a fiberglass hood . But the aerocatch latchs are the ****!!! Will post up some pics probably tomorrow.
#218
I'd cut the fuel pressure in half, or even more, and see if it doesn't start and run eaiser. At least so you can scan and check out a few things.
The plumping on the BOV? Short version, Looks like pressure is ran to where the vent should be, so, when in boost that pressure is going to open the valve. I guess this is what you want so you won't get more than a 5ish psi for now?
Long version, when in boost, you'll have the same pressure on both sides of the diaphram, so the only thing holding the valve closed will be spring pressure, which will be easily overcome by the boost on the bottom of the valve.
The plumping on the BOV? Short version, Looks like pressure is ran to where the vent should be, so, when in boost that pressure is going to open the valve. I guess this is what you want so you won't get more than a 5ish psi for now?
Long version, when in boost, you'll have the same pressure on both sides of the diaphram, so the only thing holding the valve closed will be spring pressure, which will be easily overcome by the boost on the bottom of the valve.
#219
I'd cut the fuel pressure in half, or even more, and see if it doesn't start and run eaiser. At least so you can scan and check out a few things.
The plumping on the BOV? Short version, Looks like pressure is ran to where the vent should be, so, when in boost that pressure is going to open the valve. I guess this is what you want so you won't get more than a 5ish psi for now?
Long version, when in boost, you'll have the same pressure on both sides of the diaphram, so the only thing holding the valve closed will be spring pressure, which will be easily overcome by the boost on the bottom of the valve.
The plumping on the BOV? Short version, Looks like pressure is ran to where the vent should be, so, when in boost that pressure is going to open the valve. I guess this is what you want so you won't get more than a 5ish psi for now?
Long version, when in boost, you'll have the same pressure on both sides of the diaphram, so the only thing holding the valve closed will be spring pressure, which will be easily overcome by the boost on the bottom of the valve.