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370, Garrett GT55-94, truck manifolds build thread. ***UPDATE 12-10***

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Old 07-03-2011, 08:09 PM
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Mine on the highway at night will not get over 130-140. During the day on the highway it won't get over 160. Stop and go 170-175 the fan hardly ever cuts on. Now in extreme stop and go heavy traffic I've seen as high as 190 but never over that it will stay at 190 and as soon as I start to move it goes to 175-180 till I hit about 50 and it drops to 170ish.

I'm sure if my car wasn't as low it would help with the temps.

At the track in the staging lanes I see 180 after I pass I see 190-200 and back in the lanes 180-190. Never hot lapped it, yet. I'm running Amsoil Synthetic fluid now so I'm hoping it might help a little more.
Old 07-07-2011, 11:55 PM
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Ok got all the fluids in it, and am going to try adn start is as soon as the computer gets back. This is exactly how i have the vacuum lines hooked up. This look good?



Also Im just getting a mail order type tune to get it started. Once its here what exactly should i limit the RPM to, and everything? I want to put at least 50-100 miles on it before it gets on the dyno if possible.
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Old 07-08-2011, 12:10 AM
  #183  
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Looks good, I only have one port on my bov, so not sure on the lower port, it seems it would aid in overcoming the spring opening the bov once in vacuum. No boost controller?

Last edited by Boosted3rdGen; 07-08-2011 at 12:19 AM.
Old 07-08-2011, 12:14 AM
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looks fine to me as well...what are you using for a vac block? any pics of how you have your map located?
Old 07-08-2011, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Boosted3rdGen
Looks good, I only have one port on my bov, so not sure on the lower port, it seems it would aid the spring in opening the bov once in vacuum. No boost controller?
Yes i have a eboost2 just not hooking it up right now, still wanting to just get it started and all the bugs worked out. I know where that goes though And yes the lower port is to aid the reaction of the BOV.



Originally Posted by 6techniques
looks fine to me as well...what are you using for a vac block? any pics of how you have your map located?
No vacuum block. I run a Aarons intake (6061.com). Map is just located of the elbow to about 8 inchs of vacuum hose to a 3bar. Nothing special. No pics of it.
Old 07-08-2011, 12:51 AM
  #186  
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Sick build my man!!! I can't wait to run E85, you have to let me know how you like it. Also where did you find that Radiator? I would love to run one with the inlet/outlet on the same side like that. Thanks. And keep us posted!
Old 07-08-2011, 02:03 AM
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Subscribed...Badass build man, hopefully you will be posting some videos once this thing is up and running
Old 07-08-2011, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 89L98T56
Sick build my man!!! I can't wait to run E85, you have to let me know how you like it. Also where did you find that Radiator? I would love to run one with the inlet/outlet on the same side like that. Thanks. And keep us posted!
Jegs is where the radiator/fan combo came from.
Old 07-08-2011, 07:58 AM
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I forgot about the ports on those elbows...Im not a fan of the port locations on my vic jr...especially the 3/8" port for the booster...just seems to take away from even cylinder distribution. Eh...maybe I should just plug it...Im thinking manual brakes anyway lol
Old 07-08-2011, 08:51 AM
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These units are great for spooling, I don't think you'll have any issues at all with a decent 370. I ran one of these on a very mild 347 ford and it spooled as fast as the gt47 which it replaced....spooled very, very fast.
Old 07-08-2011, 03:33 PM
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I think what has everyone thinking this turbo won't spool is the 3" crossovers. I personally have 2.25" on my puny T4 76mm .96 AR gtsh and full boost is hit at 4500rpm(11psi). His willl probably hit full boost a lot higher than that depending on how much he plans on pushing it once it gets going.
Old 07-10-2011, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackWS666
Its a B&M big *** cooler with a electric fan that kicks on @ 175 degress.
Turn that fan on with ignition or a switch using the thermostat doesn't work well. Been there done that.
Old 07-10-2011, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by black98ws6ta
Turn that fan on with ignition or a switch using the thermostat doesn't work well. Been there done that.
So it doesn't turn on at 175* or what? Need more reason than "been there done that" to rewire my transmission fan. Please share
Old 07-10-2011, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackWS666
So it doesn't turn on at 175* or what? Need more reason than "been there done that" to rewire my transmission fan. Please share
B and M makes two coolers with fans and I have used both on several cars. The smaller of the two fans is not big enough in my opinion had problems with them keeping the tranny fluild cool, esp using the thermostat. There have been times where my tranny temp gauge would show 200*+ and the fan would not be on or it would be on its way cooling down and shut off way before 175*. Then we started to wire them to ignition with a switch to turn them off incase the key is going to be on for any extended amount of time so it wont kill the battery.

I have had one of the bigger and smaller units mounted in the same location you spoke about on my firebird.

Last edited by black98ws6ta; 07-11-2011 at 12:24 AM.
Old 07-12-2011, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by black98ws6ta
B and M makes two coolers with fans and I have used both on several cars. The smaller of the two fans is not big enough in my opinion had problems with them keeping the tranny fluild cool, esp using the thermostat. There have been times where my tranny temp gauge would show 200*+ and the fan would not be on or it would be on its way cooling down and shut off way before 175*. Then we started to wire them to ignition with a switch to turn them off incase the key is going to be on for any extended amount of time so it wont kill the battery.

I have had one of the bigger and smaller units mounted in the same location you spoke about on my firebird.
interesting. I will have to make sure i keep a close eye on that. If so its no big deal to hook it up straight to the ignition. I have a whole fuse box made for strictly ignition on hot wires.
Old 07-16-2011, 03:18 AM
  #196  
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GOOD NEWS: Car started and ran, no leaks, or problems with anything as of 2 minutes of run time.

BAD NEWS: It starts hard, requires you to gas it when starting, pops when starting and idleing, but smooths out kinda at 2000RPM,

Fuel pressure is 48/50 psi

plugs are gapped at .032 TR7s
Old 07-16-2011, 02:06 PM
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Bump for some advise? Or thoughts?
Old 07-16-2011, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackWS666
GOOD NEWS: Car started and ran, no leaks, or problems with anything as of 2 minutes of run time.

BAD NEWS: It starts hard, requires you to gas it when starting, pops when starting and idleing, but smooths out kinda at 2000RPM,

Fuel pressure is 48/50 psi

plugs are gapped at .032 TR7s
Chances are that is in the tune.
Old 07-16-2011, 05:04 PM
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Its the tune, my LT1 did the same thing on a mail order tune, let it run for a bit and drive it and it will smooth out
Old 07-16-2011, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by hitmanws6
Its the tune, my LT1 did the same thing on a mail order tune, let it run for a bit and drive it and it will smooth out
Im not sure if i can even get it to idle. I have to throttle the **** out of it to keep it running, and badly at that. I have raw fuel coming from the downpipe. Im gonna maybe try a few more little adjustments, but ive started it probably 10 times and only once i got it to run for 1 minute, every other time is about 15 seconds. Also usually have to crank it for 10 seconds to get it to start.

So what you experts think i should do?????


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