Mine did the exact same thing, would crank over forever and it would die, had to throttle it etc. After finally getting it started i held the throttle for maybe 20 seconds and it began idling high. It did calm down, so try that if not do some logging and go from there

 

Raw fuel out the downpipe doesn't sound good. I had a mail order tune that was doing the same thing, would not stay running unless I held the throttle open, eye burning-pig rich exhaust, etc. I was told that the car would run better once I got it up to temp, but no dice. Turns out that I had a bad MAP sensor (sensor was brand new). I swapped in a another sensor and it was a completely different car.

In the off chance that you are having the same problem, make sure that your oil isn't contaminated with fuel.

 

Ya, i wouldnt continue to run the car in this condition cause they plugs are definately fouled and ur gonna wash the walls with that much fuel, are u sure the mail order tune has a correct operating system for wutever map sensor your running, cause i did a 2bar sd on a car and bought the map sensor from napa which was supposed the be the one from a supercharged cobalt and it turned out it was a stock 1bar sensor, and identicle issue to urs, car would not idle and i already tuned part throttle b4 i did the 2bar upgrade, whats the part # on ur map sensor, the correct delco# is 12615136, there are some other part #'s floating around out there too, but im positive mine is righ

 

I would switch to 9s.

 

This is a very good point. If your OS doesn't match your MAP, this will happen as well. Sometimes it won't even start at all

 

i dont have a part# on my 3 bar. but it looks identical to a gm 3 bar if that helps any. I was told that because my pcm is not a 411 it will not accept a 3bar tune. This sound right? I am in the process of ordering a new pcm and trying that out.

 

not sure bout the pcm #'s but i would hope ur mai order tuner would tell u if the pcm has a 3bar or a 2 bar tune...te part number i supplied is for a 2bar, i happen to be the ugly duckiling and have a 98 so no 3 bar for me lol....I thought all 99 and up pcms had the ability to go 3 bar

 

what year pcm do you have?

 

Is the pcm the origional one out of the car? What year is the car? Is this a mail order tune? What injectors? Do you have a scanner? If not, you can measure the voltage at the map sensor to see what sensor it is.

 

what year is the car?

fuel pressure is low and was the base tune done for low base fuel pressure?

check for proper MAP and that it's actually working

 

Car is a 2000 Trans am WS6. The base tune for fuel pressure was set at 58.

If i dont have proper tuning software, just a scanmaster, and OBD2 scan tool. is their a way to check and see if the map is working correctly on the 3bar with those?

 

So then ur base pressure should be set to 58psi with the vacuum line disconected frkom the regulator, and u can watch ur map reading with the scan master and compare it with a boost vacuum gauge readout, or ohm the sensor out and hook a mighty vac to it and check ur readouts, or ask ur tuner to verify ur operating system and then verify which sensor u have, and if u haven't already, u should always follow standard procedure and check spark, fuel and vacuum leaks or air restrictions

 

Why don't you have an 0411 pcm? I thought that was a standard 99-02 pcm. Am I missing something?

 

I am to believe that the 411 only came in the 01 02 f-bodys.

Got the coolant system done with the Kurt Urban steam system which is badass by the way. Just waiting on my new computer to get here, and hopefully it runs better than the previous time.

I did get my hood on tonight, it fits like a fiberglass hood . But the aerocatch latchs are the ****!!! Will post up some pics probably tomorrow.

 

post some pics!

 

I installed the aerocatch latches this year. They Rock

 

in for the pics

 

I'd cut the fuel pressure in half, or even more, and see if it doesn't start and run eaiser. At least so you can scan and check out a few things.

The plumping on the BOV? Short version, Looks like pressure is ran to where the vent should be, so, when in boost that pressure is going to open the valve. I guess this is what you want so you won't get more than a 5ish psi for now?

Long version, when in boost, you'll have the same pressure on both sides of the diaphram, so the only thing holding the valve closed will be spring pressure, which will be easily overcome by the boost on the bottom of the valve.

 

Maybe I'm wrong but, the way the bov valve is plumbed, the two sides will have equal boost pressure applied, but the spring side will have the advantage, with boost helping it keep the valve closed.

 

videos! i wanna see this bitch running already