BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

so do i need to pull timing? How much for say 12 psi max and 8 psi off the line?

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

No you will need more timing to spool the turbo faster and to get up on the converter.

Since your on E85, this is just a rough conservative estimate, but I would start with 15-16* up to peak torque rpm, then ramp it up to 18-19 to redline and go from there. I run 14* up to peak torque and 15-16 up to redline on 50/50 93/110 and meth, you have more octane than I do so you can get away with more timing. And I run 15psi your on 12.

I had a good tuner tell me I needed to up my timing to 20* up to about 5psi then ramp it down to 15-16* till redline. I dunno about that on a stock bottom end, but if I had forged rods and pistons I would do it on race gas anyday.

More timing will make it hit the tires a lot harder out of the hole too.

BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

Well i guess im done racing for the season, and have some changes this winter that will start undergoing soon enough. Going to try to fix my main problems this winter and need some feedback on one of them. Spool time! I was reading around and seen this thing called a spool valve. Read about some of the experiences with it and all the forums on here and i think im going to try it. What im looking for is some guys to chime in with big *** turbos on smaller < 400 cube motors with some serious track/dyno numbers. Can anyone help me out on this!?!

blackmagicturbo

iTrader: (2)

I would love to see your car on a s480 ..I think your turbos to big for how low of boost your running ,, it doesnt even seem like its hitting that hard ,,hope you get it figured out ,cool car

http://youtu.be/5XcLfWh4uHo

http://youtu.be/Z3pLKGy0kec

BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

Only reason im running 12 psi is because of fuel pressure drop at 14 PSI. Its going up next season

turbocamaro125

iTrader: (3)

You need to have a divided turbine housing to use a spool valve

BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

I seen that. So yes i would have to change out my exhaust side, but if its say 1.08, then when half closed it would be .54 so it wouldnt be a big deal i wouldnt think. Im just wanting some rock hard info before i commit to something with changing exhaust housings, and mocking up a hot side around it.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Yea I was gonna say the same about the divided housing.

Just get the fuel pump issue worked out, and start with 18*-20* timing up to 4-5psi. That will REALLY wake it up and help it spool beleive me, timing is everything in spooling a turbo at the line.

BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

Right on dude. I am building that new 2.5" hot side this winter, and i think i will just make a spacer so if i ever wanted to try it i could. But will try everything else possible first, timing, more/less fuel, ect ect.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

What are your afr's on the footbrake right now, and what are they on the transbrake along with timing?

BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

I honestly havent looked close enough to get a exact number. I will play with it this weekend and get some more accurate numbers. Timing is set at whatever the tuner had it at. I will call him today and ask him what my initial timing is set at. That should assist in knowing how much timing to add.

ericwilloughby

I don't think changing your timing will add much spool. I tried the spool valve on a big *** rear mounted Holset Wh2D. This turbo did not have a wastegate so it is a good indicator of the differance. All I could get was 4# of boost, max. The spool valve raised that to 10#.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Really? It's all about raising cylinder pressure, raise cylinder pressure you raise the pressure going into the turbo so it spools more/faster.

Trust me I've played with the timing in the smallest bits on my car and it made a huge difference.

Mainly what I am asking is what your timing is for each rpm cell from where you start to apply tps% and kpa/map/psi starts to rise and what the timing in degrees is relevant to that and afr.

Those things mentioned last play a huge part in spooling a turbo.

Ericwilloughby how do you think the guys in ODR with 440" lsx motors and 118mm single turbo's get there turbo's to spool? Timing, and afr.

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

\

23psi w/ meth im seeing 100% dc. with my 4103. went 120 to the 1/8 with a *** tun of converter slip
17psi had 15% slip in the 1/4 on 26" tires
now 23 psi with 28" tires. over 33% slip

more timing does help the spool on the footbrake and trans break.

ericwilloughby

If the timing is not already at its optimum...sure, it will help. But I think they do it with a big *** stall. Not by some few degrees of timing.

I've tried both also. The only thing that mattered was turbine A/R and stall

bad6as

iTrader: (17)

were talking more then a few. in the 30s

black98ws6ta

iTrader: (77)

It really depends on the combo...some just need another 200 rpm before the thing will light off and build as much as you would want it to. Some can be so far off from spooling that a 50 shot of nitrous isnt going to help. I have been there and done that with a spool valve and do not reccomend it. Get the tune where it needs to be first, if it doesnt work good there try a smaller exhaust a/r or loosening the converter a tad. Things like wrapping the hotside, turbo blankets, and getting some heat in the turbo on a burnout can help alittle also.

koolrayz

iTrader: (26)

I didnt read if you have a three step or not? If you dont have a first step to bump into the lights on you wont be able to correctly stage on a pro tree. Timing and AFR is also important but the first thing is the three step.

SATAN

iTrader: (2)

I run and make quickspool valves.

I have a Borg Warner S374 devided T4 housing on a 3.0 liter engine. Without my quickspool valve, it would take me roughly 4+ seconds to build 10lbs of boost at the starting line. After I installed my QSV, I could build the same boost in UNDER 2 seconds. On the street, it dropped my spool time by over 500rpms.

My 1/4 mile info is in my sig below.

Here is the way I did mine and an explination I did on how they work. Keep in mind that my setup is more complicated than most. But if you just have two pipes that merge together before a divided turbine housing, it will work just fine.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVPVLkXP6Dk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-bCAe8x6ELc

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I know it's hard sometimes to get a look at some of the guys tunes and data logs that race the heads up classes like X275, and RS275 and even ODR as that info is guarded with life and limb usually. In be-friending a couple of heads up racers at the track over the years I have been privy to just now finally getting a look at what some of these tunes look like in the prestage for a turbo car and what I am seeing is amazing me. Stuff I didn't think would even work for a turbo car without blowing it up, is the norm for every car that runs consistently fast each round out there.

I'm talking upper 30's low 40's timing on the footbrake until 5-6psi when it back off to the 20's and then once it gets moving that's when its ramped down to the high teens.

It's all about seeing what the individual combo likes tune wise first, then stall speed and rpm can be comensated with rpm limiters like ray said for two step and three step(footbrake and trans brake).

I found that more timing, more boost and a little less rpm worked wonders for getting my 60' and 330' down.