Greddy ProFec, BSpec II issues
Greddy ProFec, BSpec II issues Ok,
I bought and installed a Profec, i got it off ebay, which i was already skeptical of, but the seller is a super seller, 20k+ 99.9% feedback, what ever.
Anyway, I spent two night reading the instructions, before i went out and installed it,
I hooked it up PER the instructions, and nothing is happening, lol.
Followed the instructions to up the boost, gain, set, etc. Its still opening at spring pressure like their is nothing their.
So, i decided to try and bench test the solenoid, 12v to it, it opens, stays open, or closes and stays closed, which is weird to me, i wouldve thought it would open, then shut once power is released.
Anyway, ive adjusted % from 0-100 and nothing at all happens. Is the "NO" port on the side of the solenoid to be left open or plugged? I tried it both ways with no difference.
Also, i find it odd that the display on the unit shows like -80s or someting like that when idle.
Either way, i have the manifold line "T'd" and going to the bottom port on the wastegate and to the reference input on the electronic controller.
Then, i have the compressor housing going to the solenoid and back to the top of the gate. I have no idea whats wrong.
Is their anyway to bench test the system to see whats going on.
I bought and installed a Profec, i got it off ebay, which i was already skeptical of, but the seller is a super seller, 20k+ 99.9% feedback, what ever.
Anyway, I spent two night reading the instructions, before i went out and installed it,
I hooked it up PER the instructions, and nothing is happening, lol.
Followed the instructions to up the boost, gain, set, etc. Its still opening at spring pressure like their is nothing their.
So, i decided to try and bench test the solenoid, 12v to it, it opens, stays open, or closes and stays closed, which is weird to me, i wouldve thought it would open, then shut once power is released.
Anyway, ive adjusted % from 0-100 and nothing at all happens. Is the "NO" port on the side of the solenoid to be left open or plugged? I tried it both ways with no difference.
Also, i find it odd that the display on the unit shows like -80s or someting like that when idle.
Either way, i have the manifold line "T'd" and going to the bottom port on the wastegate and to the reference input on the electronic controller.
Then, i have the compressor housing going to the solenoid and back to the top of the gate. I have no idea whats wrong.
Is their anyway to bench test the system to see whats going on.
I have one, takes a long time to get it to work right. I planned to take it out and install a manual controller because I got tired of trying to dial it in again every time I changed my high boost setting. They work good, but are a real pain to setup correctly.
No idea if that's how your solenoid is suppose to work though, never tried mine except by powering up the controller and applying boost to it, the solenoid would then pulse correctly. Easy way to bench test it. The instructions make it sound pretty easy to setup, but in practice you have to use trial and error and that's pretty damn hard to do when you make over 600 rwhp unless you are on load cell dyno (and it's still not the same as the street).
No idea if that's how your solenoid is suppose to work though, never tried mine except by powering up the controller and applying boost to it, the solenoid would then pulse correctly. Easy way to bench test it. The instructions make it sound pretty easy to setup, but in practice you have to use trial and error and that's pretty damn hard to do when you make over 600 rwhp unless you are on load cell dyno (and it's still not the same as the street).
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Utah
I know this doesn't help much, but I had this same controller....garbage. It took me countless hours to get it right and it still wasn't 100%. Finally gave up and sold it. The only thing I liked was the button switching the controller from "LO" to "HI" boost setting. I guess the solenoid is bleeding off vacuum/boost then? With an electronic controller you need to hook up both ports on the wastegate. Sounds like you hooked it up like a MBC.
Last edited by Sweet_SS; May 12, 2011 at 11:33 AM.
I have one, takes a long time to get it to work right. I planned to take it out and install a manual controller because I got tired of trying to dial it in again every time I changed my high boost setting. They work good, but are a real pain to setup correctly.
No idea if that's how your solenoid is suppose to work though, never tried mine except by powering up the controller and applying boost to it, the solenoid would then pulse correctly. Easy way to bench test it. The instructions make it sound pretty easy to setup, but in practice you have to use trial and error and that's pretty damn hard to do when you make over 600 rwhp unless you are on load cell dyno (and it's still not the same as the street).
No idea if that's how your solenoid is suppose to work though, never tried mine except by powering up the controller and applying boost to it, the solenoid would then pulse correctly. Easy way to bench test it. The instructions make it sound pretty easy to setup, but in practice you have to use trial and error and that's pretty damn hard to do when you make over 600 rwhp unless you are on load cell dyno (and it's still not the same as the street).
I tried to figure out a way to bench test it, but came up short.
I know this doesn't help much, but I had this same controller....garbage. It took me countless hours to get it right and it still wasn't 100%. Finally gave up and sold it. The only thing I liked was the button switching the controller from "LO" to "HI" boost setting. I guess the solenoid is bleeding off vacuum/boost then? With an electronic controller you need to hook up both ports on the wastegate. Sounds like you hooked it up like a MBC.
I really just think the solenoid isnt working the way its supposed to. Like i said, i put power to it, and it clicked open/shut, but my understanding on a solenoid is that it should power open, and spring shut. so when i remove power, it should shut. It did not do this. Again, just my thoughts.
i only messed with it for about an hour after getting it installed. the problem has to be between the controller and the solenoid or the solenoid its self.
Can anyone verify the actual function of the solenoid, as in weather it opens with power and closes when taken away, or it powered to open AND powered to close?
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I have the manifold going to the bottom, on my setup, im guessing becuase of my china-bay IC, my compressor starts registering boost before my manifold does. 21x12x3 IC with 3" piping.
SO, i have my FPR referenced their along with my boost solenoid. and my manifold to the bottom.
It says i can still use the manifold to the bottom, which im doing becuase ill start trying to push the gate open sooner with the compressor to the bottom port. I tried that with the manual controller. Infact, when i didnt want to boot, i plumbed the compressor to the bottom port alone and it opened the gate at 0psi according to my gauge.
SO, i have my FPR referenced their along with my boost solenoid. and my manifold to the bottom.
It says i can still use the manifold to the bottom, which im doing becuase ill start trying to push the gate open sooner with the compressor to the bottom port. I tried that with the manual controller. Infact, when i didnt want to boot, i plumbed the compressor to the bottom port alone and it opened the gate at 0psi according to my gauge.
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Utah
That's weird. I've always hooked up the bottom port to my manifold (plugged the compressor) and the top to the COM side of the valve...worked fine. Maybe the controller was for sale due to this issue...ummm? Did the seller say why he was selling?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Utah
Do you know anyone else in your area with this same controller? I would take it out and find an MBC or another EBC to try. Did the controller come with its air filter? If so how does it look? came with the filter, and it looked great. Also, i just went back and reviewed the auction details. It does say,
Condition:
"Condition:
Used: An item that has been used previously. The item may have some signs of cosmetic wear, but is fully operational and functions as intended. This item may be a floor model or store return that has been used. See the seller’s listing for full details and description of any imperfections"
and his description:
"Up for sale is a used Greddy Profec B-Spec 2 electronic boost controller. It comes with everything pictured: profec unit, boost solenoid, and both harnesses.
Its a used item so there are some scratches/scuffs, but everything works fine and still looks good!
Thanks for looking and check out my other items for more great parts!"
ALSO, 656 transactions 100% feedback
Condition:
"Condition:
Used: An item that has been used previously. The item may have some signs of cosmetic wear, but is fully operational and functions as intended. This item may be a floor model or store return that has been used. See the seller’s listing for full details and description of any imperfections"
and his description:
"Up for sale is a used Greddy Profec B-Spec 2 electronic boost controller. It comes with everything pictured: profec unit, boost solenoid, and both harnesses.
Its a used item so there are some scratches/scuffs, but everything works fine and still looks good!
Thanks for looking and check out my other items for more great parts!"
ALSO, 656 transactions 100% feedback
I contacted the seller and he is adamant that this controller is fine and wants help. I told him I'd stay in contact. I called greddy, figures, tech guy is out until Monday.
So, I did some more testing tonight. I know its got 12v. However I can't figure out a good way to bench test the system. Like I said before, I Was able trip the solenoid with 12v directly.
So I thought, If I could zero the controller it would open or shut the solenoid with pressure to the controlled. So I blew into the end and watched the readings climb on the controller, nothing out of solenoid. So I figured, maybe its in by pass mode default, makes sense. So I set the controller to 100%, this should make the solenoid do something. Well, again, nothing.
So, I did some more testing tonight. I know its got 12v. However I can't figure out a good way to bench test the system. Like I said before, I Was able trip the solenoid with 12v directly.
So I thought, If I could zero the controller it would open or shut the solenoid with pressure to the controlled. So I blew into the end and watched the readings climb on the controller, nothing out of solenoid. So I figured, maybe its in by pass mode default, makes sense. So I set the controller to 100%, this should make the solenoid do something. Well, again, nothing.
I don't know, some guys don't like them. I personally like it, but then I never had any problems with mine. Bought it new last year and installed it according to the instruction booklet.
I contacted the seller and he is adamant that this controller is fine and wants help. I told him I'd stay in contact. I called greddy, figures, tech guy is out until Monday.
So, I did some more testing tonight. I know its got 12v. However I can't figure out a good way to bench test the system. Like I said before, I Was able trip the solenoid with 12v directly.
So I thought, If I could zero the controller it would open or shut the solenoid with pressure to the controlled. So I blew into the end and watched the readings climb on the controller, nothing out of solenoid. So I figured, maybe its in by pass mode default, makes sense. So I set the controller to 100%, this should make the solenoid do something. Well, again, nothing.
So, I did some more testing tonight. I know its got 12v. However I can't figure out a good way to bench test the system. Like I said before, I Was able trip the solenoid with 12v directly.
So I thought, If I could zero the controller it would open or shut the solenoid with pressure to the controlled. So I blew into the end and watched the readings climb on the controller, nothing out of solenoid. So I figured, maybe its in by pass mode default, makes sense. So I set the controller to 100%, this should make the solenoid do something. Well, again, nothing.
if you have an air compressor, POINT ur blow gun into the vacuum line that goes into the boost controller. Point it a few inches away and trigger ur blow gun.
the boost controller should start seeing pressure.
Question, when you rev the car, at idle, does the -80 change?
ITs basically a vacuum/boost gage also. If its stuck at 80, the filter/check valve might be on backwards.
Last edited by toretto; May 12, 2011 at 09:40 PM.
I can blow in it and register boost. Yes, the gauge works properly, and blowing in it made it register. That's how i was testing it. The solenood never did anything. So something is wrong in their.
If ive got it wrong, ill glady admit it, thats not beyond me. But i really dont think its installed wrong at all.
Ive been over it 100 times easy now. Hell, their is only two wires to hook up, and one harness that snaps together.
And the vacuum lines are installed per the instructions.
Teching In
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 1
I installed mine wrong the first time too man...and i "thought" it was per the instructions. Unfortunately I dont have my car right now because I'm out of town. But when I get back I can tell you exactly how it goes. It DOES matter if it's a twin setup. The instructions don't really tell you how to set those up.