Rear Mount Turbos
Rear Mount Turbos Whats up guys
I found some website that talks alot about building homemade DIY turbo kits with junkyard/ebay turbos and tubing.
All this kit says needed is tubing, turbo, oil pump, lines.
STS looks pretty much the same set up (plumbing from headers to turbo, back to TB and an exit place after the turbo).
One of my first questions is, Is this kit feasible on a dd car?
What do you recommended to avoid getting rain water, dust getting sucked into the engine? Is there no way to avoid this?
TIA
I found some website that talks alot about building homemade DIY turbo kits with junkyard/ebay turbos and tubing.
All this kit says needed is tubing, turbo, oil pump, lines.
STS looks pretty much the same set up (plumbing from headers to turbo, back to TB and an exit place after the turbo).
One of my first questions is, Is this kit feasible on a dd car?
What do you recommended to avoid getting rain water, dust getting sucked into the engine? Is there no way to avoid this?
TIA
yes, build a shield for your filter
as far as being feasible for a daily I would say build your own kit with good parts but people do use the ebay pipng with good parts and have decent luck (once tweaked a little to make it work)
as far as being feasible for a daily I would say build your own kit with good parts but people do use the ebay pipng with good parts and have decent luck (once tweaked a little to make it work)
im doing this right now. fabing my own tubing, buying the main components here and there. im pretty close to having everything to run it. just need more piping and the fuel side of the house
It is feasible for a DD for sure. You don’t have to worry about under hood temp, moving your rad or nothing. I have built some front mount setups for my old iroc, but I think with my Vette I’m doing a single rear mount just for the fact I don’t have to touch anything under the hood.
Make sure to use stock manifolds. My friend built his 1999 SS using the factory manifolds (wrapped them), then 2.5Y to a 3inch (all wrapped). He used a Turbonetics 7668 .96A/R (76mm coldside, 68mm hotside). Spools pretty well instantly on his 6.0L.
He also opted for a 2.5inch cold side to the intercooler to help velocity/spool times
Be sure to use a good oil return pump like a turbowerx.
Also depending on boost levels look into a Precision 46mm gate. Good price for the size. This is what I will run. My friend uses a Tial 38mm but he runs 12psi. I don’t think he has tried to run less. But I would think a 38mm may not be enough to control down to 5-6psi.
Goodluck!
Jay
Make sure to use stock manifolds. My friend built his 1999 SS using the factory manifolds (wrapped them), then 2.5Y to a 3inch (all wrapped). He used a Turbonetics 7668 .96A/R (76mm coldside, 68mm hotside). Spools pretty well instantly on his 6.0L.
He also opted for a 2.5inch cold side to the intercooler to help velocity/spool times
Be sure to use a good oil return pump like a turbowerx.
Also depending on boost levels look into a Precision 46mm gate. Good price for the size. This is what I will run. My friend uses a Tial 38mm but he runs 12psi. I don’t think he has tried to run less. But I would think a 38mm may not be enough to control down to 5-6psi.
Goodluck!
Jay
This is my daily driver in the Sig below. No issues here. I had an STS camaro before this and it was my daily as well. I've driven though some serious rain storms without issue. Just avoid deep puddles.
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definitly, or copy-cat the new intake up in the wheel well, just remember to "vent" it so it doesnt become a source or restriction.
Biggest thing the junk yard turbo site is that it tells you where and how to fix the biggest flaws of rear turbos.
Of course the location. its the least effecient. got it. but it can be made to do what alot of front mounts wish they could
The oil pump need to be upgraded, needs an inlet check valve. Use the LS6 PCV system with an addition PCV check valve to prevent crank boosting or use a catch can or both. intercooler is a must. T70 minimum for flow and fun factors. and unless you got a 6.0 or bigger, stick to the .81 exhaust tunbine housing for the best initial turbo response. until you get a sppol valve then you can get the big thumpers. KEEP your stock manifolds on or around aleast if youve swapped to LT headers already. youll rather want to use these then LT headers. better heat retention. Wrap from the turbo back to the Manifolds for heat retention. use AN fittings and SS braided lines for oil.
start with 60lbs injectors and at least a walbro 255 sho-me fuel pump upgrade. Racetronics is easier but alittle more expensive. All in all its pretty simple. just time consuming but if your patient and get decent parts. the build goes smooth. and it wont have that $6000 start up price.
Biggest thing the junk yard turbo site is that it tells you where and how to fix the biggest flaws of rear turbos.
Of course the location. its the least effecient. got it. but it can be made to do what alot of front mounts wish they could
The oil pump need to be upgraded, needs an inlet check valve. Use the LS6 PCV system with an addition PCV check valve to prevent crank boosting or use a catch can or both. intercooler is a must. T70 minimum for flow and fun factors. and unless you got a 6.0 or bigger, stick to the .81 exhaust tunbine housing for the best initial turbo response. until you get a sppol valve then you can get the big thumpers. KEEP your stock manifolds on or around aleast if youve swapped to LT headers already. youll rather want to use these then LT headers. better heat retention. Wrap from the turbo back to the Manifolds for heat retention. use AN fittings and SS braided lines for oil.
start with 60lbs injectors and at least a walbro 255 sho-me fuel pump upgrade. Racetronics is easier but alittle more expensive. All in all its pretty simple. just time consuming but if your patient and get decent parts. the build goes smooth. and it wont have that $6000 start up price.
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