98-02 F body single hot side turbo kits starting at $799
08-02-2011, 09:44 PM
#363
08-05-2011, 10:49 AM
#366
Hi guys here's a little update.
All the motor mounts are finished.
This pic has motor mounts and alternator relocation kit pics in it.
We also have oil distribution block kits available. $69.00 each + shipping.
You don't have to hassle with drilling and taping, just bolt it on and go.
All the motor mounts are finished.
This pic has motor mounts and alternator relocation kit pics in it.
We also have oil distribution block kits available. $69.00 each + shipping.
You don't have to hassle with drilling and taping, just bolt it on and go.
08-05-2011, 11:07 AM
#367
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This is great news Rob!!!! Will the kits be shipping soon? I have paid for the cnc block already, but need to buy the alternator relocation from you still before the kits ship. Im excited and can't wait to start my (Modular Turbo Build Thread) 
08-05-2011, 06:50 PM
#373
Do you have any more pics of the pass side where you had to notch the k-member? From the top of my car I would have to cut alot of the k-member. The manifolds will not fit flush on the motor. I think I will just have to cut the bolt on the manifold some. And notch the k-member.
08-05-2011, 07:09 PM
#375
I did have to dent the frame a little.
I put a new urethane motor mount insert in the driver side, this way
if everyone has one or replaced there stock drivers mount with
a urethane mount the motor will be in the same spot.
I didn't notch the K-member,
I used a hammer and made room for the pipe that comes
out of the pass manifold.
You don't need to cut any thing.
A few minutes with a hammer and your done.
I will get you some pic's tomorrow.
Oh one last thing, I removed the stud closest to the frame and used a bolt.
I put a new urethane motor mount insert in the driver side, this way
if everyone has one or replaced there stock drivers mount with
a urethane mount the motor will be in the same spot.
I didn't notch the K-member,
I used a hammer and made room for the pipe that comes
out of the pass manifold.
You don't need to cut any thing.
A few minutes with a hammer and your done.
I will get you some pic's tomorrow.
Oh one last thing, I removed the stud closest to the frame and used a bolt.
08-06-2011, 09:58 AM
#376
TECH Addict
I don't think anyone makes a Truck Mani kit that keeps the sway bar.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ld-thread.html
Something like that is what I was hoping you all would be doing. Easy to move the battery.
08-06-2011, 11:31 AM
#377
I did have to dent the frame a little.
I put a new urethane motor mount insert in the driver side, this way
if everyone has one or replaced there stock drivers mount with
a urethane mount the motor will be in the same spot.
I didn't notch the K-member,
I used a hammer and made room for the pipe that comes
out of the pass manifold.
You don't need to cut any thing.
A few minutes with a hammer and your done.
I will get you some pic's tomorrow.
Oh one last thing, I removed the stud closest to the frame and used a bolt.
I put a new urethane motor mount insert in the driver side, this way
if everyone has one or replaced there stock drivers mount with
a urethane mount the motor will be in the same spot.
I didn't notch the K-member,
I used a hammer and made room for the pipe that comes
out of the pass manifold.
You don't need to cut any thing.
A few minutes with a hammer and your done.
I will get you some pic's tomorrow.
Oh one last thing, I removed the stud closest to the frame and used a bolt.
08-07-2011, 12:46 PM
#379
I hope this will answer some questions about what needs to be done to get the pass manifold to fit. I didn't cut anything, just moved some stuff around!
You can see where I replaced the stud with a bolt, this is the only one that needs to be done like this.
Look close and you can see where I made room on the frame for the manifold ear.
No heat was used on the frame,just a good size ball peen hammer.
You can also see where I replaced the stud with a bolt.
Looking back on it now I could have bolted the flange to the manifold
and cut the stud off flush with the nut and it would have given me the same clearance.
Oh well live and learn.
Turb0Z28: Just cut your stud and you will be good.
You can see where I replaced the stud with a bolt, this is the only one that needs to be done like this.
Look close and you can see where I made room on the frame for the manifold ear.
No heat was used on the frame,just a good size ball peen hammer.
You can also see where I replaced the stud with a bolt.
Looking back on it now I could have bolted the flange to the manifold
and cut the stud off flush with the nut and it would have given me the same clearance.
Oh well live and learn.
Turb0Z28: Just cut your stud and you will be good.
Last edited by Chris@CBR; 08-07-2011 at 01:19 PM.
08-07-2011, 01:22 PM
#380