Anyone have their catch can hooked to their exhaust?
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Was reading a thread a while ago where someone mentioned running a line from their catch can to their exhaust on a PCV-less system. This way the vacuum from the exhaust essentially does the job of the PCV system (pulling crap from the crankcase) without throwing it into your intake. Is anyone running a system like this? Would love to see some pics to get an idea of a setup.
I was thinking I would run a -10 stainless line from the can to the turbo downpipe. I would also run a check valve in the line to keep from boosting my crankcase when I let off the throttle since I will still have a catback. Something like this, perhaps? Pretty simple...
![](http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/3855/pcvsystem.png)
Seems to make perfect sense. All of the good points of having a PCV system without the oily mess it makes in your intake and combustion chambers.
I was thinking I would run a -10 stainless line from the can to the turbo downpipe. I would also run a check valve in the line to keep from boosting my crankcase when I let off the throttle since I will still have a catback. Something like this, perhaps? Pretty simple...
![](http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/3855/pcvsystem.png)
Seems to make perfect sense. All of the good points of having a PCV system without the oily mess it makes in your intake and combustion chambers.
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I have thought about something similar for NA. But never thought about it on a Turbo car. It is just a crank case evacuation set up in short,but it may not work as good on a down pipe due the Exhaust pulses being chopped up.but that's just my theory. You can buy a kit from summit for cheap.its really a old technology but works decent
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I've considered it but I'm still to find any decent information on how well it'll work with relatively restrictive exhausts. I still run a couple of mufflers with my system to keep it stealthy and I'm worried that exhaust backpressure will be too high for this to work effectively when it matters.
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check out "Crankcase Evacuation System" on summit. theres several options, but i plan on running 2 -8 or -10 lines from each valve cover directly to each check valve. its alot like your idea, but completely eliminates the need for the catch can and clutter.
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Thanks a lot guys! Think I'll end up going this route. One more question though... Once I route it to the exhaust should I take the filter off of the catch can and take the breather off of the oil cap? Seems like this should be a sealed system or the vacuum from the exhaust would mostly just be pulling from the atmosphere instead of the motor.
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A sealed system** would shitcan Your seals (& potentially collapse Your hoses) - depending on Your ring gaps. The evac system needs airflow, just don't make it easy for the air to get in.
We ran a nitrous BBC with the exhaust evac setup using two 3" filter breathers. We saw the same crankcase vacuum (~6"Hg under load @ 7krpm)with the breather on & off - indicating that there were some potential gains by reducing the breather size. We were aiming for 8" to 10" Hg crankcase vacuum. Unfortunately we swapped to a dry sump before we could experiment with orifice (breather) sizes.
You may consider some or all of the following:
#2 may save You from doing #3 & #4.
Regards,
Kurt
** Keep in mind that once You have ring gaps (stock or opened) the system will never be fully sealed. That said if You try to fully seal it You'll likely run into the problems mentioned above.
We ran a nitrous BBC with the exhaust evac setup using two 3" filter breathers. We saw the same crankcase vacuum (~6"Hg under load @ 7krpm)with the breather on & off - indicating that there were some potential gains by reducing the breather size. We were aiming for 8" to 10" Hg crankcase vacuum. Unfortunately we swapped to a dry sump before we could experiment with orifice (breather) sizes.
You may consider some or all of the following:
- Use the smallest breather size You can find (usually 2" diameter). All else equal, the smallest breather will give You the lowest crankcase pressure. In reality it may give You 1"Hg less than the 3" ones, so nothing to write home about.
- Use an oil separator (catch can) in the EVAC system. Reduces the amount of oil that gets into the exhaust.
- Put a drain plug in the bottom of the muffler to drain any oil accumulation. I have no conclusive evidence but I've always felt uncomfortable about mixing oil puddles & ***** of fire in the car. We sprayed our mufflers with brake fluid every few races because most of that oil had coked up and didn't drain as readily.
- Point Your exhaust as far away from the track as possible. Nobody - especially the guy running after You - will want to find out You left a nice shiny coat of oil on the top end of the track, particularly the braking zone. It'll take him weeks to get his seat cushion out of his clenched ***.
#2 may save You from doing #3 & #4.
Regards,
Kurt
** Keep in mind that once You have ring gaps (stock or opened) the system will never be fully sealed. That said if You try to fully seal it You'll likely run into the problems mentioned above.
Last edited by bettonracing; 08-08-2011 at 08:13 AM. Reason: Added "never fully sealed" comment & typo correction
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Great points. Thanks for the tips! Hopefully the catch can catches most if not all of the crap coming into it. It's a cheapo ebay one but I stuffed it with scratch padding.
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or you could just use a catch can with baffles and check valves so you can use the vacuum from the intake, and not worry about any of this. one of the sponsors posted a thread about it a while back and they sell said catch can
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I've looked into it but some of that crap would still be going into the intake and combustion chamber. There's just too many downsides to the PCV system even with a good catch can. I would rather have whatever doesn't get picked up by the catch can go into the exhaust. All of the pluses of crankcase evacuation and pressure relief without the bad of going through the intake.
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i have the moroso kit on mine
just one breather on one cover going down and splitting into both of the scavenging tips in the exhaust
no can inline, but it couldn't hurt
drive it all over, and run the time in the sig, no problems, and my motor is on the loose side
back of the drivers bank
![](http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s167/rotary1307cc/370/IMG_0673.jpg)
![](http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s167/rotary1307cc/370/IMG_0868.jpg)
just one breather on one cover going down and splitting into both of the scavenging tips in the exhaust
no can inline, but it couldn't hurt
drive it all over, and run the time in the sig, no problems, and my motor is on the loose side
back of the drivers bank
![](http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s167/rotary1307cc/370/IMG_0673.jpg)
![](http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s167/rotary1307cc/370/IMG_0868.jpg)
![](http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s167/rotary1307cc/370/IMG_0866.jpg)
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They all come in the 50$ish moroso kit
I like it because I am absolutely not getting **** back into the intake and it is simple and not a hose monster under the hood
I like it because I am absolutely not getting **** back into the intake and it is simple and not a hose monster under the hood
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I did quite a bit of research on this awhile back. The issue with using the exhaust scavenge method is back pressure in the exhaust especially while in boost. After doing a lot of digging I followed a thread I found and did the same scavenge setup as people put in the exhaust, except I did it in my waste gate tube. During normal driving the crankcase is vented by my breather in the valve cover. Then, when the car gets into boost and the waste gate opens, it scavenges gases from the 2 valve covers.