Thanks Granite

BOS,
I hope flipping it around works for you. That would put you dead on the cogs. With your standoffs the cog belt fits nicely on the s/c cog with space to spare. Now get the belt to ride on the center of the crank cog and you're all set.
Mine has to come back off, I am going to add more washers to my stand off to get the length you have. That way my belt comes foward toward the radiator instead of riding on edge facing the engine.

Thanks for taking that pic from up top for me, that's exactly what I was looking for. I wish my idler sat like yours when I had it that way, it just wouldn't turn when I tightened it down, must be a manufacturing tolerance mishap.
Here is a comparo pic of yours and mine, I need your space and you need my space between the bracket and the tensioner LOL!
Mine

yours


Time to get outside and get that figured out.
J

 

thats it ! i'm ordering this monday.
i'm soooo fed up with this slippage crap. i still see 10 psi even with the new intercooler.
can lee make different teeth counts on both ends? or is it just the blower cog or crank cog?

 

by looking at your video i did not see much if any lag at all.

 

WHOO HOO! Got it figured out. My belt now rides on the s/c cog and the crank cog with no overhang. Here's what I did.
Took it all apart, flipped the tensioner over and tightened it down, but like it did before...it wouldn't turn. It was worth a try though. SO I went to NAPA and bought some 5/8 .id washers. The ones I wanted were suppose to be thin width wise, but they only had thick width washers in stock So I bought three of those.
Took em home, tried to put them on the tensioner shaft, but yep like I figured it was hitting the snap ring that's in there. I then grabbed the air grinder and grinded the **** out of the washers until they cleared the snap ring. I only needed two of the three I bought to get the space I wanted.

Pic of the washers.

Pic of the snap ring that you need to clear


With the washers installed here is the space I got,


Much less gap then what I started with.
Mounted everything back up,

Here is the belt now with the tensioner riding closer to the bracket. This was taken after I ran the car, while the car was running it looked the same with a timing light shining on the belt and cogs



I didn't have to add anymore 3/8 washers to the standoffs either btw, but I might add one each, put the stock ATI spacer back on the D1 to push the s/c cog foward a lil bit more so the cog belt rides more on the s/c cog.

The belt was a little frayed from riding on the edge, got a better view of it when I had it off Someone on here warned me about that too.

So when I get a new belt on there I will add one more washer per standoff for a total of 4 each per standoff. That might even give me enough room to run the belt under the tensioner too *might*.

Just thought I would keep you guys posted for those who haven't got theirs or put theirs on yet. This cogs need a lil fine tuning but I think they will work great once I get all the lil **** out of the way.

Is the P1 inlet diameter smaller than the D1, cause I tried to put my inlet hat on like kp's pic and it wasn't going to happen. I had to reuse my goofy silcone connector.
J

 

I saw Bos' setup today at the Speed Inc. Open House, looks good. Z8's aka Chris liked it but reccomended that Brian run more belt tension. I think Brian is turning a corner.

 

When you guys get the standoff stuff figured out you should let Lee at ASP know so he can make that stuff the right size to include with future cog setups. You guys are like pioneers.

I'm glad to see you guys getting these ATI's working like they should've out of the box.

Used ATI kits should be worth a little more once people know the slippage issue is figured out.

 

Cool, if he needs to run more tension than I better tighten mine up too. I was told to run 3/4in to an inch of play. I have it at 3/4in.

Took a pic with the car running. Look closely and you can see the teeth showing on the s/c cog on the alternator side And it's on real good on the crank cog too.


I hope Brian can see his car run great with all the problems he had with pulleys, and belts. I hope the cogs work excellent for him and me too.

Dirty Right ON! One more ATI cog set up in the world. Do you want to go with more teeth or less teeth on both of the cogs. I am sure he can set you up with the tooth count hugger has(clint) if you want to run less.

Granite, yep the car just reacts to the throttle something fierce but I need to nail the tune down big time. Then it will run as mean as she sounds. Oh yeah Pesci rocks, Funny like how? Funny like a clown? Ha-ha
J

 

XLR8NSS, No doubt, I trailblaze so you don't have too. Lee asked me to measure my stand offs with the washers but I told him that I was still fine tuning things. I told him that Bos has some excellent standoffs and needs to talk to him about how long his are. Bos isn't even running those ASP spacers between the s/c and the bracket. Z8's is the man to have around when it comes to stuff like this.

On a side note. My bracket is a lil tweeked. I put a flat edge to it, right at the curve of the "j" end it is a little twisted. I am talking barely noticeable, but it's there. I might need to step up that steel bracket if we can't convince Z8's to make a support available to us.
J

 

frcefed98, BigBos, Z8's, and Lee @ ASP

 

the inlet fits pretty loose on the blower, once you tighten the clamp it will stay on (doesnt look like it but it will). Unless your inlet is too small to go over the blower, I thought the inlet was the same size between a D1 and P1 but who knows.

 

I got a new issue that I came arcross tonight......

I will take pics tomorrow morning when I start wreching again..........

The COG belt is slipping.......I never did any part throttle tests until tonight, and it jumps teeth pretty bad, I got a good amount of dust build up right on the blower, looks like its slipping possible on the S/C cog.......

I'm running SLIGHTLY tighter tension than 3/4" on the belt, now here is my problem, I spaced the idler pulley out w/2 washers to move the it towards the motor so the belt would ride more on the crank pulley......that was all fine and dandy until I went to tighten up the belt and realized its really close to that ring that goes behind the top stand off on the stock idler pulley, you can see how Jeremy has that ring out and mine is still left in.....with the belt tightened more it was starting to cut a groove.....(pics tomorrow)

When I did a party throttle flash I could feel them slip and shake the car pretty good, knew exactly what it was......

So now I can't tighten the belt anymore other wise it will really start digging into that ring and the cog idler itself will come into contact with that stock drive pulley......thats a problem....

So I can try and take one spacer out of the idler because I was running 2, and see if that clears more, if that doesn't clear the ring I will have to remove the blower and take the bracket off and get that thing out of there and try it again....or I can leave it how it was to begin with where the idler had no shims and the belt was hanging off the crank pulley slightly, I don't like hanging belts, everything should be on....

Would putting the belt under the tensioner possibly work?

I don't like slipping belts.....

 

Put pics on my COG install photos in the webshots page......


http://community.webshots.com/album/123307510usjeje


They are probably on the 2nd page of that link.....

I need all the opinions I can get on this.......

 

My idler(the one right above the ASP tensioner) on the LS1 accessory drive still has its dust cover on there. I was talking about that to my girlfriend who was outside with me when I was working on my car. I couldn't figure out why yours sticks out and mine is flush. I just figured you had something under there or something. But its there. Mine hasn't jumped teeth at all, just frayed on the side where it was hanging off the cogs. That's now fixed. I am going to order a new belt and mess around with more washers to see if I can get the cog belt under the tensioner like it's suppose to go.
Here is a pic of the dust cover on my LS1 Idler.


I don't know why yours is different???????
But yeah if you can get that belt to ride under the tensioner all of your problems will be solved, no dust cover cutting into the belt and be easier to tension the belt.
BTW what happened when you flipped the tensioner around? Did it fit better add more of a gap or did you go straight to the washers?
J

 

Flipping it around did nothing, I went straight to the washers, tomorrow is going to be shitty weather, so I'm going to put the car up on jack stands in the garage and work tomorrow to experiment more, I'll try it with one washer.....might have to remove that dust cover.....I wonder if taking the dust cover off will effect any spacing, don't think it should.....I'll also try the belt below the tensioner.....

 

Lee must have machined yours different. There is a huge difference when I flip mine around with no washers.??????? This is weird???
I will wait till I get a new belt here to mess with it. I am going to wire up my digital boost gauge and digital FP gauge.
Going up for sale, autometer Ultra lite boost mech gauge 0-35psi
autometer Ultra Lite air fuel ratio eletrical gauge w/ o2 sensor tap both are 2-1/16th.

 

kp, nope the inlet hat won't fit over it, the inlet hat opening is just slightly bigger that the inlet on the D1, but no big enough. I was going to cut a slot on both sides but didn't want to **** up that 120 piece of plastic lol
I tried though sure woulda been nice to pick up some space between the frame of the radiator and the inlet hat. My intake tubing would line up better too.

Bos, Kyle or Dirty do your inlet hats fit over the opening of your headunits?
Or do you use a silicone connector to mate them together?
J

 

Mine fits.......dont need to use a clamp to hold it on either.....its a pretty snug fit against the radiator area.....

 

Mine fit and i use the clamp......... Ordering fuel parts probably tomorrow.. then the 60# Motrons so get back to me Jer if you are going to b e needing them....APR 1st or so.... then the Cogs and im done....... at least till i break the 10 bolt that is......

 

TTT on my little issue before I start wrenching this morning.........

My mototrons should be here this week, so I need to get this little issue out of the way so I can throw the beast on the dyno........

 

Ok, let the wrenching begin then......I'll be back in an hour to let ya know if I got a solution....