ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

it will get real hot in stop and go with the ac on before i added the second fan , with the second fan ive never seen 220 , highest was in the 210 -214 range.

Are you going to be adding a second fan like i did ??

dc4bill

iTrader: (1)

im not sure, if needed i will def add one but being that im not often in stop go traffic i may not need one

jastone

I know this is old but I figured its a good place to post this. I got a 98 TA and I just finished my d1 install. Got a street tune on it to make sure it's running solid before I head to the dyno. Everything is running well except until I came back from a short run yesterday and had the ses light on. Ran the code and got p0480 and p0481. Cooling fan 1 and 2 circuit trouble. Looked at the wiring everything looked good checked the 40a fuse and found it blown. Anybody run into this after their spal fan install? I wired the the light blue and white wires to the fan ground and the black wire from the passenger side fan to the spal positive. I believe that was the way the procharger manual showed it. Any and all advice appreciated as always.

Thanks Jason

dlandsvZ28

The very early Procharger manuals actually had the wiring diagrams wrong. The later versions corrected their mistake.

That said, whether you can search this forum for posts about that issue that long ago - don't know. I would give you the information but my manual is packed away - haven't looked at it since around 2005.

Bob at Brute Speed would be the best source. Perhaps Bob will chime in.

Question: The motor on the Spal Extreme 16 draws a lot of amps which is what I have, but it is one of their first versions - 2005 era. It really shouldn't be used on the street because it doesn't have much longevity. Spal now has a street version of the Extreme. Bob would have the correct part number.

Which Spal do you have? Many of us here run two Spals. A sixteen and a 11 inch. My two fans don't come on at the same time, however.

Edit: I did a search on 'Procharger wiring' and got lots of hits. Here are two.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ring-help.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...arger-fan.html

jastone

This is the spal I have. It cooled the car fine. No heating issues at all actually.

SPAL Fans (30102082)
16in High Performance Puller Fan
Paddle Blade
For use w/ 40Amp Fuse @ 13V
Airflow (CFM) : 1876
Size : 15.71in x 15.71in x 3.74in

IDK if my install manual has the updated wiring or not. I guess I'll have to look when I get home but in the meantime if anyone has the updated wiring from procharger please post it.

Thanks Jason.

dlandsvZ28

According to the link I posted above, yours is wired different.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...ring-help.html

jastone

If the install manual has the wires backwards that would mean the fan would be pushing instead of pulling, right? That alone shouldn't blow a fuse. But if say the fan blades were designed to be pulling air and the circuit wiring was making the fan push air, would it be logical to think that at say 110mph the air rushing through the radiator over the fan blades could cause the blades to want to spin in the direction they were designed for (opposite of the way they were wired)? If so then the fan motor is fighting that opposite direction force caused by the incoming air and could possibly cause the fan to draw too much current to pop the fuse, correct?

jastone

Well I checked the procharger fan wiring against my service manual and I found that the procharger manual was showing the opposite of what the service manual was showing.

Excerpt from the link posted above, plus if you have a service it gives the correct polarity in there also.

"On the left hand fan the light blue is + and the grey is minus.

On the right hand fan the white is hot and the black is ground."

So the fan was acting as a pusher instead of a puller. Switched the leads at the fan and bang it was pulling for sure. I know I should've checked the service manual to verify the procharger wiring diagram was indeed correct but I didn't. On a side note the other day it was 80* here and I took the car out. Even with the fan spinning the wrong way the car never got over 205*. Amazing even as a pusher the spal fan was effective at cooling the car. It wasn't till I did the 110mph pull that the fan drew too many amps and popped the fuse. Now with it wired correctly the car didn't get over 180*, granted it was only 65* but nonetheless it ran much cooler. I just wonder how many people that complain about cooling with these cars after their procharger install have the wires crossed since they followed the diagram in the install manual?

Thanks Jason

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

I'm glad to see you got it figured out Jason! Bob

dlandsvZ28

Over the years there have been numerous posts about the wiring. Usually that is the first thing to suggested to check.

As for overheating it depends on many factors. If you do a search on 'ProCharger Overheating' just about every cause has been covered and the fix to correct it.

Climates with extreme high temps in the summer, however, contribute to overheating when the air temps get into the high 90's - low 100's. Leave the AC off when the temps are 100 and the car usually won't over heat. Turn the AC on and it will probably overheat.

Most times for those of us who live in the areas of the country where summer temps are so high we add a second puller fan and even a pusher fan on the face of the AC condenser.

jastone

Right, I had researched a lot on procharger installs before I started my project and the threads say that the updated install manual has the correct wiring polarity. I have the latest manual and it still shows the incorrect polarity. Just saying that I should've checked polarity with my service manual instead of fully trusting the procharger manual to be correct.

Also, I'm fully aware of the overheating threads that are on this site. Hence, why I started this thread years ago in order to verify the correct spal fan to purchase. I know some climates are more extreme than others but there are people on here that live in a comparable climate as I do that experience problems of overheating. I'm just saying they could be looking at the updated manual from PC and thinking they have wired the fan correctly when perhaps they don't.

All in all, check the mechanical function of the engine, check to make sure all air has been evacuated from the cooling system (especially if changing water pumps with the aster bracket) the Alchemist provided a link to a cool tool in another thread that works great for $75, get a good (better fan), and make sure it's wired correctly, then if needed like some people have to do, add a supplemental fan to assist with cooling.

Troy5061

iTrader: (19)

I use the 2,000 cfm Spal 16" fan with the gasket as a pusher on my stock radiator and it works fine so far on my turbo car. I have no ac and its been cool here so far this year plus not much heavy stop and go traffic up here. Cruising it stays around 178 degrees in 60 degree weather. Still remains to be seen when it gets up to 80 or 90 if I will need a 9" fan to help it out. I moved my meth pump and trans cooler out of the radiators way and I think that helped a bunch with cruise temps, I also cut up my slp grille for more airflow but I don't know if that helped or not.

dc4bill

iTrader: (1)

with the manual i have it only shows how to wire in one fan, where would i be able to find a diagram for dual fans?

99WhiteKnight

iTrader: (7)

After some more time, has anyone found a better option for keeping these procharged cars cool? I am running into the same issue, runs fine with the a/c off, but temps start to rise with the a/c on. Also what are you guys using to get a nice clean cut on the shroud?

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

if your having issues still after the two fans your going to need an lt1 radiator or an aftermarket radiator

gccasper04

iTrader: (4)

I installed these 2 fans this weekend.

Spal 30100452 9" Low Profile Curved Blade Puller Fan
Spal 30102049 16" Curved Blade Performance Fan

I have the stock radiator and thermo. Not only does it run cooler on the highway, but I let the car sit in the sun at idle for about 10 minutes with AC full blast. Car never reached 200* This is probably the best $190 ive spent on this car. Car is a 408 with F1A