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FI guys, I need the "skinny" D1SC/LQ4

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Old 10-10-2011 | 07:24 PM
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Default FI guys, I need the "skinny" D1SC/LQ4

OK long story short:

Stock bottom end Lq4 block, 30-40k miles in 2 months before the truck was wrecked.

Lookin at a D1SC procharger kit, reman'd 317s with new springs, valves, port/polish (maybe.. that's expensive)

TSP is saying 224/228 cam.

Ls6 intake, looking at brutespeed's kit with injectors and fuel pump, but not a requirement.

Reading up other folks are blowing engines with stock bottom ends and 10psi?

So.. the question is..

stock bottom end on this motor, what can it hold, and.. what kinda power am I gonna see out of this thing? I was estimated 400-550whp. If that's the case, it's not worth the extra $7k or so to reconfig my predetermined setup (L92 heads. Ls3 intake) to take this route, but it's worth considering.

What say you forced induction? I'm not gonna be pulling the pistons to mess with ring gap, and I dont REALLY want to mess with rod bolts cos I'm afraid I'll screw it up.

Thx.
Old 10-12-2011 | 07:08 PM
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good question. i would like to know the same thing
Old 10-13-2011 | 10:45 PM
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A little off subject but you will have to deal with the block as well, it does not have two of the necessary bolt holes for the procharger bracket one of the you can drill and tap but the other falls right in the cylinder. Several here have devised ways to overcome this with custom brackets.
Most try and stay right at 8psi on the stock bottom end.
Old 10-14-2011 | 09:14 AM
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8 psi on the stock block is what I recommend going with. At 8 psi the missing bolt hole won't be a problem. Actually, I use to run 19-20 psi with the one missing bolt hole without any problems with an F-1A. Bob
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Old 10-19-2011 | 07:38 AM
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Thanks. and.. if I wanted to run more, like.. 12-15 I would need to go with forged correct?

I don't know that 8 psi would be worth the $7500 or so it'd cost to implement something like this.

I knew the block was missing a hole (actually it's missing 2 holes, but one of them I can drill if I need to.. as it is my understanding..) but I wasn't sure how the procharger units mounted, so I wasn't sure.

surely someone makes a kit/adapter or something? Seems like there'd be enough demand for LQ blocks for someone with a CNC and some aluminum to fab up a new bracket.
Old 10-19-2011 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DarkFox118
Thanks. and.. if I wanted to run more, like.. 12-15 I would need to go with forged correct?

I don't know that 8 psi would be worth the $7500 or so it'd cost to implement something like this.

I knew the block was missing a hole (actually it's missing 2 holes, but one of them I can drill if I need to.. as it is my understanding..) but I wasn't sure how the procharger units mounted, so I wasn't sure.

surely someone makes a kit/adapter or something? Seems like there'd be enough demand for LQ blocks for someone with a CNC and some aluminum to fab up a new bracket.
8 psi is usually good for an extra 140 rwhp. It adds enough horsepower that it instantly blows the tires off, which will require a lot of chassis work to handle the power. Going with more boost will indeed require going forged. The stock crank is good for 1000 hp, you just need better rods and pistons. Past 700 or so rwhp the entire fuel system will need to be replaced, so you'll have to plan for this as well if you plan on upping the boost. Bob
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Old 10-19-2011 | 09:52 PM
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explain more on the bolt holes and brackets, as far as which blocks and which brackets.
Old 10-19-2011 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by cleonard
explain more on the bolt holes and brackets, as far as which blocks and which brackets.
The iron blocks require one hole to be drilled for the bracket, and you'll still be one hole shy. I ran my iron block this way at 19 to 20 psi and never had a problem with it. I haven't seen anyone come up with a way to correct this situation.

http://shop.brutespeed.com/Brute-Spe...d-Camshaft.htm
Check out our blower cam, it is a proven performer. Bob
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Old 10-20-2011 | 03:57 AM
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I corrected it with my "method" lol.
Old 10-20-2011 | 07:35 AM
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I could take a picture of the LQ4 I have in the garage to show you where the holes are, but if you're looking at the front of an Ls1, on the driver side yo have a hole just below the head on a little tab. Lq blocks do not have this. the tab is there, but no hole. You can drill/tap it.

Also, right sort of "inside" of where the cylinder wall is on an Ls1 near the water pump is another hole (it's lower than that actually.. closer to the balancer) The Lq block does not have this at all, and you can't really do it. I assume because of the larger bore the block has?

I know stock these 2 locations are used on Fbody cars to mount the alternator bracket. You don't NEED either of them to mount the alt, just.. the bracket sort of free floats.

Apparently the procharger Fbody kit uses these too.

and I guess with a s/c placement matters a bit more than on a turbo.. cos of belt configuration and all.

Full fuel system upgrade=new plumbing under the car as well as the double pump setup in tank?

I've actually give up on this project, but I still want to learn. Maybe I'll find a solution I haven't thought of.
Old 10-21-2011 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob@BruteSpeed
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Brute-Spe...d-Camshaft.htm
Check out our blower cam, it is a proven performer. Bob
Been contemplating this purchase. lol
Old 10-21-2011 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by WeakSauce6
Been contemplating this purchase. lol
You should quit contemplating it and buy it!!! lol I lowered the items that can be bought with it as options this morning. Bob
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