FI guys, I need the "skinny" D1SC/LQ4
#1
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From: Longbeach, CA
FI guys, I need the "skinny" D1SC/LQ4
OK long story short:
Stock bottom end Lq4 block, 30-40k miles in 2 months before the truck was wrecked.
Lookin at a D1SC procharger kit, reman'd 317s with new springs, valves, port/polish (maybe.. that's expensive)
TSP is saying 224/228 cam.
Ls6 intake, looking at brutespeed's kit with injectors and fuel pump, but not a requirement.
Reading up other folks are blowing engines with stock bottom ends and 10psi?
So.. the question is..
stock bottom end on this motor, what can it hold, and.. what kinda power am I gonna see out of this thing? I was estimated 400-550whp. If that's the case, it's not worth the extra $7k or so to reconfig my predetermined setup (L92 heads. Ls3 intake) to take this route, but it's worth considering.
What say you forced induction? I'm not gonna be pulling the pistons to mess with ring gap, and I dont REALLY want to mess with rod bolts cos I'm afraid I'll screw it up.
Thx.
Stock bottom end Lq4 block, 30-40k miles in 2 months before the truck was wrecked.
Lookin at a D1SC procharger kit, reman'd 317s with new springs, valves, port/polish (maybe.. that's expensive)
TSP is saying 224/228 cam.
Ls6 intake, looking at brutespeed's kit with injectors and fuel pump, but not a requirement.
Reading up other folks are blowing engines with stock bottom ends and 10psi?
So.. the question is..
stock bottom end on this motor, what can it hold, and.. what kinda power am I gonna see out of this thing? I was estimated 400-550whp. If that's the case, it's not worth the extra $7k or so to reconfig my predetermined setup (L92 heads. Ls3 intake) to take this route, but it's worth considering.
What say you forced induction? I'm not gonna be pulling the pistons to mess with ring gap, and I dont REALLY want to mess with rod bolts cos I'm afraid I'll screw it up.
Thx.
#3
A little off subject but you will have to deal with the block as well, it does not have two of the necessary bolt holes for the procharger bracket one of the you can drill and tap but the other falls right in the cylinder. Several here have devised ways to overcome this with custom brackets.
Most try and stay right at 8psi on the stock bottom end.
Most try and stay right at 8psi on the stock bottom end.
#4
8 psi on the stock block is what I recommend going with. At 8 psi the missing bolt hole won't be a problem. Actually, I use to run 19-20 psi with the one missing bolt hole without any problems with an F-1A. Bob
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#5
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From: Longbeach, CA
Thanks. and.. if I wanted to run more, like.. 12-15 I would need to go with forged correct?
I don't know that 8 psi would be worth the $7500 or so it'd cost to implement something like this.
I knew the block was missing a hole (actually it's missing 2 holes, but one of them I can drill if I need to.. as it is my understanding..) but I wasn't sure how the procharger units mounted, so I wasn't sure.
surely someone makes a kit/adapter or something? Seems like there'd be enough demand for LQ blocks for someone with a CNC and some aluminum to fab up a new bracket.
I don't know that 8 psi would be worth the $7500 or so it'd cost to implement something like this.
I knew the block was missing a hole (actually it's missing 2 holes, but one of them I can drill if I need to.. as it is my understanding..) but I wasn't sure how the procharger units mounted, so I wasn't sure.
surely someone makes a kit/adapter or something? Seems like there'd be enough demand for LQ blocks for someone with a CNC and some aluminum to fab up a new bracket.
#6
Thanks. and.. if I wanted to run more, like.. 12-15 I would need to go with forged correct?
I don't know that 8 psi would be worth the $7500 or so it'd cost to implement something like this.
I knew the block was missing a hole (actually it's missing 2 holes, but one of them I can drill if I need to.. as it is my understanding..) but I wasn't sure how the procharger units mounted, so I wasn't sure.
surely someone makes a kit/adapter or something? Seems like there'd be enough demand for LQ blocks for someone with a CNC and some aluminum to fab up a new bracket.
I don't know that 8 psi would be worth the $7500 or so it'd cost to implement something like this.
I knew the block was missing a hole (actually it's missing 2 holes, but one of them I can drill if I need to.. as it is my understanding..) but I wasn't sure how the procharger units mounted, so I wasn't sure.
surely someone makes a kit/adapter or something? Seems like there'd be enough demand for LQ blocks for someone with a CNC and some aluminum to fab up a new bracket.
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
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#8
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Brute-Spe...d-Camshaft.htm
Check out our blower cam, it is a proven performer. Bob
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
#10
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From: Longbeach, CA
I could take a picture of the LQ4 I have in the garage to show you where the holes are, but if you're looking at the front of an Ls1, on the driver side yo have a hole just below the head on a little tab. Lq blocks do not have this. the tab is there, but no hole. You can drill/tap it.
Also, right sort of "inside" of where the cylinder wall is on an Ls1 near the water pump is another hole (it's lower than that actually.. closer to the balancer) The Lq block does not have this at all, and you can't really do it. I assume because of the larger bore the block has?
I know stock these 2 locations are used on Fbody cars to mount the alternator bracket. You don't NEED either of them to mount the alt, just.. the bracket sort of free floats.
Apparently the procharger Fbody kit uses these too.
and I guess with a s/c placement matters a bit more than on a turbo.. cos of belt configuration and all.
Full fuel system upgrade=new plumbing under the car as well as the double pump setup in tank?
I've actually give up on this project, but I still want to learn. Maybe I'll find a solution I haven't thought of.
Also, right sort of "inside" of where the cylinder wall is on an Ls1 near the water pump is another hole (it's lower than that actually.. closer to the balancer) The Lq block does not have this at all, and you can't really do it. I assume because of the larger bore the block has?
I know stock these 2 locations are used on Fbody cars to mount the alternator bracket. You don't NEED either of them to mount the alt, just.. the bracket sort of free floats.
Apparently the procharger Fbody kit uses these too.
and I guess with a s/c placement matters a bit more than on a turbo.. cos of belt configuration and all.
Full fuel system upgrade=new plumbing under the car as well as the double pump setup in tank?
I've actually give up on this project, but I still want to learn. Maybe I'll find a solution I haven't thought of.
#11
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Brute-Spe...d-Camshaft.htm
Check out our blower cam, it is a proven performer. Bob
Check out our blower cam, it is a proven performer. Bob
#12
You should quit contemplating it and buy it!!! lol I lowered the items that can be bought with it as options this morning. Bob
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website