Started on my twin turbo build. Pics inside.
#1
Started on my twin turbo build. Pics inside.
What’s up guys,
I’ve started fabrication on my twin turbo kit for my Fbody and I wanted some opinions.
I’ve already cut the 3-bolt style flanges off the manifolds to make room for the new 2.5” V-band style flanges that will be welded on once they arrive. I’m also running 2.5” mild steel pipes from my manifolds to my turbos. As you can see from the pics the pipes travel from the manifolds, goes down and forward, makes a 90 degree turn under the frame rail and then makes another 90 degree turn going up and into the turbo. The driver side turbo will be located right where the fuse boxes were.
Now, here’s my dilemma…
I need to have some flex point somewhere in the system due to engine movement. I’ll be using Energy Suspension poly mounts to help keep movement down to a minimum. Should I put a flex joint here (see pic below) and fab a bracket to bolt the turbo to the frame OR keep a continuous pipe all the way to the turbo and put flex couplers on the cold side joints? I kinda don’t want to put any flex feed pipes because I want the best flow possible to spool both turbos. I’m not sure if the flex joints cause any turbulence…I’ve never used them. I’m also concerned that without securing the turbo the frame, the weight of the turbo might cause cracks on the pipes.
So, what do you guys think? Should I use a flex joint where I indicated and bolt the turbo to the frame OR keep a continous pipe and don’t secure the turbo the frame?
Also, I’m using stock truck manifolds off a Denali 6.2L. Will porting the manifolds add much power or help spool the turbos any faster? I really don’t mind spending a few hours porting if it’ll help out.
BTW, turbos are the GT45 ebay units that will be powered by a forged LS3.
Any help would be greatly appreciated guys.
Thanks
I’ve started fabrication on my twin turbo kit for my Fbody and I wanted some opinions.
I’ve already cut the 3-bolt style flanges off the manifolds to make room for the new 2.5” V-band style flanges that will be welded on once they arrive. I’m also running 2.5” mild steel pipes from my manifolds to my turbos. As you can see from the pics the pipes travel from the manifolds, goes down and forward, makes a 90 degree turn under the frame rail and then makes another 90 degree turn going up and into the turbo. The driver side turbo will be located right where the fuse boxes were.
Now, here’s my dilemma…
I need to have some flex point somewhere in the system due to engine movement. I’ll be using Energy Suspension poly mounts to help keep movement down to a minimum. Should I put a flex joint here (see pic below) and fab a bracket to bolt the turbo to the frame OR keep a continuous pipe all the way to the turbo and put flex couplers on the cold side joints? I kinda don’t want to put any flex feed pipes because I want the best flow possible to spool both turbos. I’m not sure if the flex joints cause any turbulence…I’ve never used them. I’m also concerned that without securing the turbo the frame, the weight of the turbo might cause cracks on the pipes.
So, what do you guys think? Should I use a flex joint where I indicated and bolt the turbo to the frame OR keep a continous pipe and don’t secure the turbo the frame?
Also, I’m using stock truck manifolds off a Denali 6.2L. Will porting the manifolds add much power or help spool the turbos any faster? I really don’t mind spending a few hours porting if it’ll help out.
BTW, turbos are the GT45 ebay units that will be powered by a forged LS3.
Any help would be greatly appreciated guys.
Thanks
#6
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The top one is like what is listed and you are questioning. The bottom is with no braid on them. If you buy the ones you are talking about and remove the inner braid, it will look like a mixture of the 2 in the link I posted above.
I have done it several times. The reason the braid is removed is with extreme heat it breaks down the integrity of the braided mesh and when it lets loose it goes into the turbo and kills it.
#7
I see. So you're saying I can just buy the ones you're talking about and remove the inner mesh liner? Can this be done with any flex coupler or only these specific ones?
Also, I was looking at summitracing and I found a few. What do you guys think about these?
This is a basic one. If I can remove the inner liner from this one I'll just buy these. No sense in spending more on something if the outcome will be the same...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JEX-FLX2508B/
This one even says it's for FI applications but I'm not sure if they're actually referring to "preturbo" applications.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPE-45533/
Thanks guys
Also, I was looking at summitracing and I found a few. What do you guys think about these?
This is a basic one. If I can remove the inner liner from this one I'll just buy these. No sense in spending more on something if the outcome will be the same...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JEX-FLX2508B/
This one even says it's for FI applications but I'm not sure if they're actually referring to "preturbo" applications.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPE-45533/
Thanks guys
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#12
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i would not think so. i got told you want back presure to spool the turbo quicker. think of having a 2" pipe and a 3" pipe with the same air flow. the smaller the pipe would get more pressure to spool it quicker
#14
What do you guys think if I just clean up the casting? Basically removing the sand texture and leaving them smooth like if they were headers.
#17
UPDATE
A few parts arrived this morning so I can finally get more stuff done.
I’ll be welding the V-bands on the manifolds today. Since my exhaust flex couplers won’t be in till the end of next week I guess I’ll spend the extra time cutting off unnecessary brackets and making extra room for the turbos.
More updates to come.
A few parts arrived this morning so I can finally get more stuff done.
I’ll be welding the V-bands on the manifolds today. Since my exhaust flex couplers won’t be in till the end of next week I guess I’ll spend the extra time cutting off unnecessary brackets and making extra room for the turbos.
More updates to come.
#18
UPDATE
Well unfortunely I couldn't get much done this wknd since I had to work. But I was able to get the V band clamps welded up. I did this by putting a few tac welds in place to hold the flanges and then sticking them in the oven for about 45 mins @ 400 degrees. Then I simply took one out at a time, finished welding them and put them back in. After about 20 mins I turned off the heat and let them cool naturally.
I also worked on a design for the turbo support brackets. Hopefully I can get those done this coming wknd. My flex couplers should be coming in this wk from Summit so I just might be able to finish up the hot side this wknd.
Well unfortunely I couldn't get much done this wknd since I had to work. But I was able to get the V band clamps welded up. I did this by putting a few tac welds in place to hold the flanges and then sticking them in the oven for about 45 mins @ 400 degrees. Then I simply took one out at a time, finished welding them and put them back in. After about 20 mins I turned off the heat and let them cool naturally.
I also worked on a design for the turbo support brackets. Hopefully I can get those done this coming wknd. My flex couplers should be coming in this wk from Summit so I just might be able to finish up the hot side this wknd.
#20
Well seeing how plenty of guys have made well over 500RWHP with a 5.3 with one of these, i'm hoping to make 1000RWHP with twins. My concern at this time is spool time. I've been thinking of stroking my LS3 and make a 416" instead of keeping the factory crank.