When I say air is circulating it's being drawn threw the can by manifold vacuum.
The car still has it's PCV system the PCV valve is replaced by a check valve.

I have seen condensation under the valve cover and intake of bone stock motors
that I open up in the past that where driven and parked the night before.

The reason you guys are seeing that sludge in your can is from the way the system is setup.

Just hold still you won't feel a thing, trust me I'm a doctor.

 

Chris fabed up Dan a drive shaft safety loop since the car was here to ensure it would fit with the exhaust system.

 

woah, can you add that to the store please, it would sell nicely

 

Chris/Rob

What's Chris's email???

 

Your just further proving the point that condensation builds up in even factory motors.

No one is talking about sludge. I'm talking about the moisture that you will just be collecting in the oil pan of this motor. That you will then send through this motor that I assume is forged? And then through this 10k dollar turbo kit that you just spent all this time installing.

The fact that you don't see what your doing makes me worry for the guys who's car your working on. Maybe he can read this and make a desicion based on the info at hand. Because I know I wouldn't want condensation contuously collecting in the oil system of my newly forged motor and newly added turbo kit.

Goodluck to both of you either way..

 

This is what YOU are missing^^^. This EVAC system is only adding a pop can or so worth of crank case area that isn't factory. It can't be a few drops of condensation?

 

Just like on the other sites you are on, you once again prove that you are an idiot


This system is constantly EVACUATING the water vapor to be ingested back into the motor and out the exhaust. What YOU are saying is anyone with a FACTORY PCV system is collecting water vapor in the pan??? NO, it does the exact opposite. This is no more than a catch can in a factory PCV system, and it will work flawlessly

 

The only time anything will have time to collect is during WOT.
As soon as you get off the gas it drains right back, even as you cruising around.

I tell you what, you drain your can ever time you kill your motor after a drive and tell me how much of anything you pour out of your can.

The tinny tinny bit of moisture that pass though the motor from one minute to the next
will be instantly evaporated by the engine heat.

I can't help it if you can rap your brain around how it works.

You better send a TSB to all the auto makers around the world and inform them that they've made a big mistake with the PCV systems.

 

Here's one for-ya, you can't look at what's been fabricated and the level of detail
in the build and pause for a moment and say, hay maybe this guy knows something I don't.

Oh I'm sorry this is my very first car to modify.
I'm 42 years old, I rolled out of bed yesterday and said, hay you know what,
I'll turbo charge a car today........

 

ok so i still confused. like i understand what your saying chris. and i understand him.

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so a factory car PCV system pull water and oil into the intake and then burns it up.

this is bad due to you dont want the oil in your intake.

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you system works the same but catches the oil and water and returns that to the pan.

----------------------------------------------

so go with that and explain please. how is the catch can stopping the oil so it drains but not stopping the water so gets burned up.

yes i know you have seen moisture in factory cars and i know a bit isnt bad. but wont this create more
????????????????????????????????

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i wont lie i am all for this. i hate changing my catch can. sounds lazy but i would just rather change me oil and call it a day.

---------------------------

guess what i am asking is to break it down how the catch can work in your set up so i aint getting a lot of moisture back into my motor.

 

The way the factory sets it up is they pull fresh air through the motor and the PCV valve
is a vacuum regulator.
The 3/8 rubber tube coming from the passenger valve cover going to the throttle body
is the a fresh air inlet. PCV= Positive Crank case Ventilation.

At WOT the vacuum is very low if any at all.
The only place for the motor to vent excess crank case pressure under WOT is though
that single 3/8 hose going to the throttle body.

This crank case pressure is caused by windeg and cylinder pressure getting passed
the rings.

GM built the system to be adequate for the stock motor.
All I'm doing is giving the motor more room to breath under WOT.
The can is there to separate from the oil that is collected under WOT, that's all.
The rest of the time the PCV System is drawing air though the can just as is would
draw it though the fatory air box in stock form.

 

the water in the catch can will evaporate very easily and be pulled out of the can, the oil will drain into the oil pan. The vapor coming out is over 200*, most of the water is evaproated into vapor and is not a liquid.
The only reason you find water in your sealed or regular catch cans is because it cools and condenses before it is removed. There is not enough air leaving at idle to push the vapor out. If you pulled a suction on your regular can it would suck the water vapor out and leave the oil, and you would find a negligable amount of water compared to what you now have

 

Just call me and we can discuss it.

 

I agree with Chris 100 percent.. but moister always seems to get in your motor 1 way or another so I'm not worried about a little bit if any would get in there from his catch can that he made. After all it's just vaper when it goes back into the motor. I don't know about you guys but I live way up north And there's a couple times I pulled my valve cover of on certain days after it sat all winter and it looks like rain drops under the valve cover so I'm not too worried about a little bit of moisture

 

I REALLY like that. I like how that looks. does this fit with aftermarket TA's like UMIs? This really cleans up the ground clearnance too! my UMI unit drags every so often on extreme ramp changes

 

Chris didn't build any fixtures or take any notes as it is a one off part.
But that doesn't mean that it can't be done.
Most drive shaft safety loops sell for about $120.00, this one is very stout and requires
more fab time and there is more money in materials than some of the other brands.

It may cost a little more money than the others and that seems to be all most people care about anymore.

What price do you think we should sell it for? How much is it worth to you, we just might make a 10 or 20 lol?

 

Here you go, a catch can in action.
Where's the gallons of water that you guys are speaking of?
If it had a drain back to the pan they won't have to empty it, ever!!!
I rest my case.

 

I'm not sure what the whole discussion is but isn't a metal container exposed to varying temperatures and air going to have condensation? My concern in the system you developed is will the cold thick oil clog the drain?

 

The instant the oil hits the can it's on it's way back to the pan.
Look at the oil in the video, I can't see it not draining.

 

Oil is draining while the engine is running. So the oil is hot while it is draining.

Try this experiment: Buy a quart of 140w weight oil then punch a hole in the bottom of the bottle. Tell me if it leaks all over your carpet. If it does then thick cold oil will drain........