Lets talk electronic boost controllers!
#2
On The Tree
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Tampa
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
AEM Thru boost. Haven't installed it yet but will let you know when its on.
My reasons for buying it:
Features for the price. I didn't want to spend a crapload but also didn't want to go cheap. This one offers some nice features and will fit into my guage pillar pod.
My reasons for buying it:
Features for the price. I didn't want to spend a crapload but also didn't want to go cheap. This one offers some nice features and will fit into my guage pillar pod.
#4
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
I had the AEM and it was crappy compared to my new Eboost 2! first off on build quality.. the AEM is all plastic, also the boost ref line going into the controller is not replaceable (i.e. if you tear the little hose, you have to send it in.. just STUPID design)
the eboost 2 is solid billet. The cup is billet, and so is the trim ring. The diplay is LED & fiber optics. It is auto dimming to adjust brightness at night.
Now here's the important difference - boost control
the AEM worked fine in dialing in what boost I wanted. You can play with adjustments to keep the gate shut longer, but thats about it. You can make multiple stages of boost, but it was very complicated to use them. They have a "scramble boost" option where you wire in a switch that you have to hit to up the boost while driving.
The Eboost 2 just requires you to push the up button to change boost settings. i can be full throttle, and click the up button and have another 300hp if I want. No other buttons to press.
it also has boost dropoff correction, so you can flatten out your torque/HP curve in any spot in the RPM range. The unit itself is a lot more sensitive to changes, and can more accurately control boost.
There are also a million other features to it, but ill let you read up on those haha. Too many to type!
the eboost 2 is solid billet. The cup is billet, and so is the trim ring. The diplay is LED & fiber optics. It is auto dimming to adjust brightness at night.
Now here's the important difference - boost control
the AEM worked fine in dialing in what boost I wanted. You can play with adjustments to keep the gate shut longer, but thats about it. You can make multiple stages of boost, but it was very complicated to use them. They have a "scramble boost" option where you wire in a switch that you have to hit to up the boost while driving.
The Eboost 2 just requires you to push the up button to change boost settings. i can be full throttle, and click the up button and have another 300hp if I want. No other buttons to press.
it also has boost dropoff correction, so you can flatten out your torque/HP curve in any spot in the RPM range. The unit itself is a lot more sensitive to changes, and can more accurately control boost.
There are also a million other features to it, but ill let you read up on those haha. Too many to type!
Trending Topics
#14
On The Tree
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Topeka, KS
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Am i reading this right, that the Ams-1000, cost about about a $1000.00? Good lord.
I've also been thinking about upgrading my boost controller also for the front mount trubo i'm building.
I've also been thinking about upgrading my boost controller also for the front mount trubo i'm building.
#15
i think the eboost2 is super confusing to use.
old school profecb2 is probably the easiest.
i think the truboost is the easiest. new EBC.
and i could build half a forged stroker motor for what a AMS1000 costs
old school profecb2 is probably the easiest.
i think the truboost is the easiest. new EBC.
and i could build half a forged stroker motor for what a AMS1000 costs
#18
10 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
I have never played with an E-boost but it sounds like it has a lot of the features some of the higher end more $$$ controllers have.
I like the Boost Leash boost controller by Leash Electronics. Randy makes some AWESOME products and the boost leash allows 5 timed boost stages and a launch boost stage. You tell it how long you want it to hold that amount of boost for and how fast it ramps to that boost number and that's it.
You can have one big long slow ramp stage with your target boost at the end, or split them up into 2, 3, 4, 5 stages.
You can also set-up the last stage as your "spool-up" on the footbrake boost setting.
What this does is when you turn the controller on it runs through it's stages and stays at the last setting until the transbrake button is pressed and released and then it cycles through it stages again.
So set the last stage up at the boost you want to target on spool-up on the footbrake to get the turbo going, bump into the lights and when you grab your transbrake it inputs to the controller that it's time to go back to the launch stage boost setting and when the transbrake input is released it starts back at stage 1-5 or how ever many you are using.
So you set your last stage at say 5psi and have it ramp in really quick and since it is the last stage it will stay on that setting for as long as it needs to until you grab the transbrake which starts it over again at launch psi.
I like the Boost Leash boost controller by Leash Electronics. Randy makes some AWESOME products and the boost leash allows 5 timed boost stages and a launch boost stage. You tell it how long you want it to hold that amount of boost for and how fast it ramps to that boost number and that's it.
You can have one big long slow ramp stage with your target boost at the end, or split them up into 2, 3, 4, 5 stages.
You can also set-up the last stage as your "spool-up" on the footbrake boost setting.
What this does is when you turn the controller on it runs through it's stages and stays at the last setting until the transbrake button is pressed and released and then it cycles through it stages again.
So set the last stage up at the boost you want to target on spool-up on the footbrake to get the turbo going, bump into the lights and when you grab your transbrake it inputs to the controller that it's time to go back to the launch stage boost setting and when the transbrake input is released it starts back at stage 1-5 or how ever many you are using.
So you set your last stage at say 5psi and have it ramp in really quick and since it is the last stage it will stay on that setting for as long as it needs to until you grab the transbrake which starts it over again at launch psi.
#19
Coal Mining Director
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Virginia
Posts: 4,442
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've used two Apexi AVR's, EBoost2 and AMS1000.
1. I would not hit a dog in the *** with an Apexi.
2. EB2 is a great unit...good street or strip.
3. AMS1000 is a great unit. It has advantages over the EB2 for serious racers.
1. I would not hit a dog in the *** with an Apexi.
2. EB2 is a great unit...good street or strip.
3. AMS1000 is a great unit. It has advantages over the EB2 for serious racers.